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Unread 10-18-2020, 08:57 AM   #226
arnav
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ss3964spd
if you use Kerdi band only on the end walls you present an opportunity for water from the back wall to get in behind the band - unless you are able to completely seal the ends of the ban
Yeah, this is what I was thinking about as well (water sipping through the corner), and hence the question. I may just bend it into the backwall and do a foot or so...
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Unread 10-21-2020, 09:00 PM   #227
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The CBU is taped. I must embarrassingly admit that it came out a tad too thick to my taste and I sanded it down a little. I used the same thinset I am tiling with (custom's large natural stone). My rational was the same thinset Custom recommends should be used both below and above the redguard, but, it is much coarser than other thinsets.

I still need to tape the drywall.
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Unread 10-21-2020, 09:05 PM   #228
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Kerdi-band applied. Its hard to see, but there is a crease at the tub's deck.

Up next, redgard
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Unread 11-21-2020, 11:43 AM   #229
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Gonna tile this weekend but I realized I haven't posted redgard pictures. It was definitely more involved / time consuming since i last redgard'd 5 years ago. USG seems to have changed Durock's surface. The surface has all these mini-holes that take much longer to fill (see pics below). Painting/rolling it on didn't do anything. I ended up using a wide drywall knife (vs. a trowel) and doing multiple alternating layers. Given the mini-holes there was no point to use a wet thickness gauge. I ended up relying on sqf coverage to apply the right amount (1 full gallon + 3/4" of another gallon).

Interesting right?

I am assuming the holes are to help with thinset adhesion. I wonder if for redgard application it make sense to use the opposite smooth "mastic" durock side?
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Unread 11-21-2020, 11:56 AM   #230
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- Redgard applied
- walls are taped, spackled and painted. I had to spackle over the CBU to drywall transition with a straight edge in place (simulating the trim) to fill up to the seam.
- Light is installed (I figured it is better to tile with the final light fixture in place)
- Schluter trim is installed (held temporarily with hot glue).
- Mock tile layout is done
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Unread 11-21-2020, 12:01 PM   #231
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- Light is installed (I figured it is better to tile with the final light fixture in place)
That would depend a good deal upon the style of the fixture, Dan.
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Unread 11-21-2020, 12:20 PM   #232
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One with 8 4000K daylight LEDs
The camera is compensating, but it is hospital like bright. Got sick from the Mrs. saying "I can't see anything" when she is doing the girls hair...

Anyhow, excited to finally tile!
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Unread 11-21-2020, 12:27 PM   #233
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You're installing that inside your shower?
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Unread 11-21-2020, 01:04 PM   #234
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No of course not. By the entrance to the bathroom.

What do you think about this:
Quote:
Originally Posted by arnav
I wonder if for redgard application it make sense to use the opposite smooth "mastic" durock side?
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Unread 11-21-2020, 01:25 PM   #235
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I would not tile around something like that, Dan. I'd tile the wall and install the fixture on the tile surface.

I believe USG (what usta be USG) indicated either side of the Durock panels was suitable for a ceramic tile installation.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 11-21-2020, 02:02 PM   #236
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The light is not in the wet area...
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Unread 12-14-2020, 01:50 PM   #237
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I hope everyone is keeping well...

Except the first row, the shower walls and niche are all tiled. I'll post pics when the first row is in.

1. I am planning to leave 1/8" between the tub's deck and the first row. I think 1/4" will require an unsightly large silicone line. 1/16" I am assuming is too little.

2. Since I have it anyway, I am assuming I can use CBP FlexBond between the underlayment and CBU. Probably overkill, but I am assuming will do no harm either... CBP calls for a latex modified thinset. Flexbond is definitely polymer modified (though i don't know if the polymer is latex...).

3. My subfloor is 23/32 BCX Ply, the underlayment is 23/32 BCX Ply, and I am using 1/2" CBU. I know... thick! I am assuming either 1-1/4" or 1-5/8" CBU screws will do (depending on which school of thought you adopt).

4. Since I have it anyway, I am assuming no harm in applying redgard on the floor as a crack prevention membrane. Not expecting cracks in the ply layers below but I am thinking it is cheap insurance (since the left over redgard I have will go to waste anyway).

Thx!
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Unread 12-14-2020, 02:36 PM   #238
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1) Agreed.

2) The FB will be fine. Just might take a bit longer to fully cure/dry.

3) 1 5/8"

4) If your 2nd layer of subfloor was installed such that its seams overlap the seems of 1st layer by at least 6 or so inches, and if your CBU seams overlap the 2nd layer of subfloor seams by a similar amount, the RG will be redundant I think. But, no harm in it I suppose. Only draw back is if you wanted to tape and mud the CBU seams at the same time you set the tile, thereby avoiding the humps that will result if you tape/mud the seams and let them dry before setting the tile.
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Unread 12-16-2020, 10:09 PM   #239
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I can't remember. I did a quick search but couldn't convince myself.

- When the CBU overhangs the tub's flange
- And there is 1/4" expansion gap between the CBU and the tub's deck
- And the waterproofing method is redgard
- Do you fill the 1/4" gap with silicone?

fyi, the side walls and a foot into the back wall has kerdi-band applied since the CBU couldn't overhang the flange (so the question is applicable only to 4' of the back wall where the CBU overhangs the flange).

Maybe it was one of those Industry conflicting / unclear / some do - some don't sort of a thing.

I don't think we are expecting a lot of water back and there, nor do i think we need to waterproof anything there so maybe better not to add? If any moisture does get back there, better let it wick and dry out vs. get the silicone gross over time where it wouldn't be serviceable?

Thx!
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Unread 12-17-2020, 07:57 AM   #240
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I'd leave that section open, Dan, for the reason you stated.
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