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Unread 09-03-2011, 01:14 PM   #16
Marge
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Take it all out and tile to the ceiling....IMO better looking aesthetically.

Patience will be your best friend (besides all of us) during this project. Makes all the difference.

I'll be looking forward to following your progress.
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Unread 09-16-2011, 01:34 PM   #17
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OK, back again after some stoppage on this project. I did get the plumbing taken care of and now have the CBU (1/2” Durock Nextgen) on the walls. I did go back with a new Florestone preformed shower pan (shame, I know but it made the time budget happier). I am now ready to do the seams and start tiling. So I am back for some advice.

I have a question concerning the panel sealing. Am I better off to mesh tape and mud the seams in a separate step from tiling, or do the seams as I tile? Also below is what I came home from the tile store with. Please let me know if I have made any grave mistakes now while I can still return it.

For seaming the wall CBU and attaching the floor backerboard to my floor they sold me this:
North American Adhesives NA 3100
http://www.flooranddecoroutlets.com/s51100038.html

I am seeing in the Durock instructions that they say in the joining section to:
“Fill joints with latex-fortified mortar or Type 1 organic adhesive and immediately embed alkali resistant fiberglass mesh joint tape.”
This stuff is not latex fortified, so I think they steered me wrong there?

The thinset they sold me to lay the tile on the wall and the floor is latex fortified, so perhaps I should just use that for joining my CBU seams?
North American Adhesives Multiflex NA 3220
http://www.flooranddecoroutlets.com/s51100057.html

I notice that they had bags that said for ceramic and bags that said for porcelain. On the North American Adhesives site they list a NA 3200 for Ceramic, and a 3220 for Percelain. However in the fine print it says either work for both materials. What is the difference then? Should I use 3200 or 3220…I guess it depends on my tile. Which brings me to…

Wall Field tile, Iris brand ceramic 13 X 13:
http://www.irisus.com/prodotto.php?c...CE&p=DONATELLO

Wall accent tile, Mediterranea brand 13 X 13 porcelain:
http://www.flooranddecoroutlets.com/s12100738.html

Which thinset would be best since I am mixing tile materials? Do I need a different one for each?

After the walls I will do the floors. My wife was really excited about this, so we bought it. I have about 40 square feet of floor to do with this, am I nuts?
http://www.flooranddecoroutlets.com/s12101163.html

And lastly since this really matches the grout lines for the floor tiles they pushed me on this grout, star quartz Quartz-lock 2. Expensive, but supposedly a great product. As with anything I researched it here, and the reports are mixed. It does seem that once you get it in the goes it cleans up and holds up well. Other opinions appreciated.
http://www.starquartz.com/grout.html

Attached are the layout ideas I am pondering for the shower. It is basically a 3 wall shower, 3 x 4 base. The accent tile will be the ones in the diamond orientation. This is a rough layout of the four foot wall in the middle and the two three foot walls on each end.

I appreciate any thoughts or warnings for what I have planned so far.
~Thanks
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Unread 09-17-2011, 12:06 PM   #18
Chugiak
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Jim,

DIY renovater here myself, asking many of these same questions. Numbering your questions helps the folks busier than me to keep track of what info you need.

I'm happy for you that you now have an excited design partner on this renovation. I'm all for letting SWMBO make the design decisions while I deal with the technical side.

You didn't mention, so I feel I should ask, did you put up a water barrier behind the CBU?

Moving on to the floor, are you on a slab or joists? If joists, did you check the Deflecto?

As to layout, whatever Mrs. Jim thinks is best works for me.

If you've got some computer skills and a wee bit of time, I recommend you do a layout mockup using some graphics software. Copy the mfr image of your tile of choice and paste it into your layout. You can play with grout colors that way too. Here's an example...

Name:  LayoutDownstairsFloor_example.jpg
Views: 4038
Size:  67.8 KB
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Unread 09-17-2011, 12:20 PM   #19
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Hi Jim.

First, tell us how you waterproofed or moisture proofed the shower, and tied this into the pre-fabbed shower floor.

Post a link to the floor installation instructions.

Let's get that part sorted out, then we can move on to other stuff...
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Unread 09-18-2011, 10:29 AM   #20
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Here are the install instructions for the Florestone shower pan. I installed the same brand and model pan that I removed. the original was fine functionally, just looked its age of 20 years old, so I replaced it.
http://www.florestone.com/downloads/rec/rec_install.pdf

I placed a 6 mil plastic vapor barrier behind the Durock. It drapes down and inside the lip of the shower pan between the 1/4" gap they recommend between the bottom of the CBU and the top of the pan lip.

I think I am all good there.

So my two specific questions are:
1) Do I tape and seam the CBU joints now before tiling or as I tile?
2) is the NA Adhesives 3100 the right product for seaming the CBU if I am to do it in separate steps?
Thanks
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Unread 09-18-2011, 03:28 PM   #21
dhagin
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1- You can mud & tape before or during tiling. On walls, I'll typically do it all ahead of time. Take care not to have speed bumps/mortar build up on all the joints...

2- That looks like the right stuff for everything. Joints and tile.




...you did set the new shower floor into mortar for full support, didn't you?
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Unread 09-20-2011, 06:54 PM   #22
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"...you did set the new shower floor into mortar for full support, didn't you?"

I read the manufacture's instructions thoroughly. They state if the subfloor is level and sound, you can place it down directly over it. They say if it needs lever then do it with shims or mortar. The old pan of same manufacture was installed on only the subfloor, which is plumb and level. It held up well for 22 years. There are many ribbed braces under the pan to support it, and the entire drain areas is supported. It is not one of the big box store pans with a foam bottom.

regarding the CBU seams, as I read through the directions they say this:
"Joining
Fill joints with latex-fortified mortar or Type 1 organic adhesive
and immediately embed alkali resistant fiberglass mesh joint
tape."


Now in reading the NA 3100 specs I see this:
NA 3100
Floor Tile Mortar

An economical thin-set mortar that, when mixed with water, is for setting ceramic tile, quarry tile and pavers over indoor residential concrete floors. When mixed with NA 3000 latex additive, NA 3100 can also be used for setting porcelain, marble, slate and granite in indoor or outdoor residential and light commercial floors, even with freeze/thaw conditions.

So, do I need to mix the NA 3100 with NA 3000 to meet the latex fortified spec that USG Durock requires? If so am I better off just using NA 3200?

Thanks
~Jim
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Unread 09-22-2011, 11:49 AM   #23
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Bump?
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Unread 09-22-2011, 12:03 PM   #24
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I wouldn't use the NA3100 stuff except to set your CBU to the floor.

Use the 3220 for everything else.

The 3220 is mixed with water only. Make sure you follow the directions for mixing time, slaking, etc. Mix small batches at first until you figure out the right consistency and your working speed.
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Unread 09-22-2011, 12:09 PM   #25
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Thanks for the reply!
~Jim
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Unread 09-25-2011, 09:52 AM   #26
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starting tiling

I am ready to start tiling and have a question. Should I tile one wall from bottom to top (the center wall) first? Or work around the shower doing all three walls at once, moving up one row at a time?

Thanks
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Unread 09-25-2011, 10:40 AM   #27
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Unless you are an experienced tiler, I would do one row at a time. As a matter of fact, I did just that. That way I could lay a level across the corner to make sure all my sides lined up. I find misaligned corners really annoying.
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Unread 09-25-2011, 11:14 AM   #28
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Experienced or not, it's safer to go up with all sides at the same time. Easier to keep an eye on the corners like Wendy said, and make minor adjustments as you go.
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Unread 09-26-2011, 09:18 AM   #29
glider90
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Thanks, making progress

Appreciate the help.
I finally got some tile set yesterday. I certainly do not understand how some of you guys make a living at this...I would starve to death based upon my speed! I was mixing 10lb batches of thinset, and I got one layer per batch before I decided to call the batch dread at just under 2 hours. Maybe by the time I am done I can get two rows per batch! No hurry though, I enjoy working at a leisurely pace and getting it done to my liking.

No bullnose trim was available for this so I am using the Schluter edge pieces, so for so good.

I also built a fixture plate for the tile saw and cut all 12 (plus some spares) of my chamfers for the inset tiles. Looks like it will work out well, I am looking forward to getting that far up on the wall. Attached is a final version of my tile layout. The diamonds and the top row of tile will be accent tile of a darker shade.

Thanks again so far...
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Unread 09-29-2011, 08:53 AM   #30
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Movin on up...

Got a decent amount done last night. Decided to pre-cut, and test my tiles before mixing the mud. Went much better. The saw is down a flight of stairs and out in the garage. Half of my time was spent running the stairs.

My fixture to cut the 4 corners for my diamond inset worked out perfectly. 1/8" spacers fit snugly around all four sides of the til, and in the seams of the field tile. I did kind of violate the single row per wall rule, but I wanted to get all of the tiles set around the accent at one shot so I could adjust them as needed.

Accent tile at the top is just taped in place for a visualization test. I decided not to go to the ceiling as Mrs Jim want to do an accent paint along the top of the ceiling around the perimeter of the entire bathroom. Works for me.
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