durock board at shower curb--where does it end?

[wild cat mccane]

Hi there!

I'm Ryan. Long time reader, getting close to finishing my shower on my basement slab.

I'm not seeing pictures of showers where the two walls are continuous with the wall of the room. I know these exist because I own two.

I'm not sure where the transition from the Durock to the sheetrock should happen. Does the Durock end straight up from the outside edge of the curb to include the last of the PVC liner?

Plans are Durock with the RedGard.

Thank you for all the help, here and on other threads.

[Davy]

Hi Ryan, welcome. The CBU on the walls needs to go to the outside edge of the curb.
Just a reminder, don't nail CBU on the curb over the liner.

There's a shower construction thread in the "liberry" you might find handy.

[wild cat mccane]

Thank you.

So just to confirm, sheetrock will touch the outside of the curb from the floor and run straight up?

Thank you!

[Davy]

Actually, for the curb I would mud the whole thing, all 3 sides. Only nail the lath on the outside.

If you have already started, you might post a pic so we can check it out.

[cx]

Welcome, Ryan.

If possible, I favor doing walk-in showers the same as tub showers with the waterproofing and tile extending at least two or three inches beyond the outside of the curb and the equivalent of a tub-leg extending down to the floor. I think it especially important if a shower curtain is to be used at the entry way, but I prefer it even when there are shower doors installed.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[wild cat mccane]

Thank you,

So if the Durock extends 2-3 inches past the curb (into the bathroom area that is not the shower), is there issue with the pvc liner not contacting those areas? Ie, does the cement board that is embedded in the curb not get wet and disperse the wetness to this unlined 2-3 inches? I assume the embedded section of the Durock does not get Regard, just the whole areas above the final mud deck slope?

Silly question because the liner directs the water down the drain and the RedGard has water proofed this cement board even 2-3" past the actual shower...right?

[Davy]

Maybe I'm missing something, I'm unsure of where the embedded cement board is. There should be no cement board on the curb.

[Tool Guy - Kg]

I think he's concerned that the Durock on the wall that is partially embeded by the left and right sides of the mudded curb will get wet and wick moisture outside the shower to where it meets up with drywall.

No, it's not a silly question, Ryan. It shows that you're paying attention and thinking things through. But this isn't a problem area. The curb and vertical walls may get some moisture behind the tile. But they are locations that don't accumulate moisture. Unless there's a problem, it's "moisture in-moisture out" location. It's the horizontal pan and a couple inches of wall from the pan floor that really sees wetness behind the tile. So, the Durock/drywall joint you're referring too is far too dry of a location. The drywall will not suffer moisture damage out there, even if no RedGard is used on this shower build.

[wild cat mccane]

Yep, you got my terribly described issue.

The Durock does get embedded on the to top of the curb, as I assume you should be cutting out a notch in the straight Durock for a whole panel to fit into the bottom of the pvc pan prior to the final bed with a small 1/2" gap between it hung on the wall and the floor, go up the curb no gap, sit on the curb with or without a small gap, and now extend 2-3" past the curb? I believe the above is a true to the definition of a complex sentence.

Additionally, the PVC liner on the wall should end straight at the end of the curb since the liner directs the water down the preslop, while the curb is totally wrapped with only the nails on the outside to attach the liner to my kiln dried non treated redwood 2x4s. I admit I'm using the despised Goof Proof curb builder as I'm not sure I wouldn't accidentally puncture the liner with lathe. Two kits of the Goof Proof. Major complaint of the Goof Proof system has been the preslope, final slope, and curb have required two kits to get the right amount of what is being sold--ugh.

Since the wall straight up the curb isn't getting loads of water at all, I should be good to go.

Got it.

[wild cat mccane]

Have since cut the liner down to the right height, pulled it tighter, and cleaned up the curb/liner mess you see with a stud appropriately added to the curb area on the right hand side of the pic...

Are exterior coated deck screws okay to attach the liner to the studs? Seem better than stainless staples, but I'm not a pro...

I blocked with 2x4, too short, so will add 2x10s on top of the blocking which is currently covered by the liner in the picture....or is that unnecessary? blocks would be liquid nailed and toe nailed in with a framing gun.

[wild cat mccane]

Without even knowing it, all this is thanks to your fine folks:


Toilet area- "Bathroom" area previously only with a 4" abs pipe and no vanity plumbing:


Shower area- Taking out the cast iron trap:


Shower area- Pre liner with too small blocking:

[cx]

Did you notch the bottom of your studs and push the blocking back flush with the notching to accommodate your liner material such that your CBU won't be bowed out at the bottom when you install it?

I could consider the additional blocking height necessary. The staples to hold up the liner would be adequate.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[wild cat mccane]

Caught me. I did not notch.

Since I don't count the liner attachment final, I can still notch it rough with the sawzall...and will Am I to do this at only at the corner studs with 3 folds, or all studs?

Are exterior screws okay on the liner? Turns out my "construction stapler" I thought I owned is only a tiny framing stapler...

[ss3964spd]

In that first picture, Ryan, is there anything left of those two studs? What's on the other side of that wall?

[cx]

You are to do that wherever you want the CBU to fit properly.

Screws are a bit of overkill for that application, but will work fine. All you want is to hold the liner up vertically against the blocking and without your fasteners causing any interference with your CBU installation.

My opinion; worth price charged.