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Unread 09-09-2016, 08:38 PM   #1
codude
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Advice Needed: Curbless Shower Slope Above Finished Floor

Trying to determine the best way to slope to a linear drain in master bath I am renovating.

Purchased a TruGard pre-formed slope and was planning to use their kit to slope to a linear drain on the back wall as pictured below. The vertical plywood represents a glass shower wall which will be installed.

Due to some "unusual" construction in that back right corner, I can't drop the slope below joist level, which means I either need to A) raise the entire bathroom floor, creating a slight step from bedroom into bathroom (not ideal), or B) slope in a different direction.

I'm thinking about rotating the slope 180 degrees and sloping instead to a linear drain at the shower exit in the foreground. The slope would butt up against the glass wall on the left and be sealed/caulked so that water drains forward to the linear drain, not to the left under the glass wall. The back of the shower would be nearly 3 inches above the bathroom floor, however.

Are there any concerns with this design, or does anyone have another solution that I should consider?

Thanks in advance!!
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Unread 09-10-2016, 06:46 AM   #2
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Yes you can install the drain at the shower entrance and slope the shower floor upwards away from it as you've planned. Just be sure there is drain all the way across the joint where the floor starts to rise.
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Unread 09-10-2016, 08:38 AM   #3
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Sure, it can be done but it's not a design I like, especially up stairs. I'd look into dropping the framing (if it's possible at all) and run the water to the back wall.
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Unread 09-10-2016, 08:39 AM   #4
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What is unusual about the framing? Can you post a pic of the framing
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Unread 09-10-2016, 09:28 AM   #5
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I like placing a linear at the entrance provided there's no door on the shower.(aesthetics) This is sometimes the only way to do it if there are framing constraints.

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Unread 09-10-2016, 12:19 PM   #6
codude
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Davy and rmckee84, completely agree that I'd rather drop the framing- just don't think it's realistic.

Here is a slightly closer pic of the framing. The previous occupants boxed in a large area for the plumbing of this bathroom and another one on the other side of the wall on the right. To drop into the joists (which are only 2x8 to begin with), I would have to remove the back two horizontal 2x8, which run about 8 feet under the wall to the next existing joist to the right.

That would leave about 56 inches of unsupported wall framing running from the back wall of the house to the third horizontal 2x8. Seems sketchy at best.

Simplyjames, agree. No plans for a door on that side of the shower. Just glass wall and open to the side (foreground.)
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Unread 09-10-2016, 01:06 PM   #7
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Fwiw

I personally do not like the looks of your framing at all. I would not do a shower over 2x framing laid flat like that. I would look for another solution. you may have to redo the plumbing but I wouldn't trust that to hold up a shower. Added load of your tile on the wall would add to the problem too.

In my opinion. sorry.
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Unread 09-10-2016, 01:24 PM   #8
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I agree with Jim. Wonder why they didn't just bore the framing as it's normally done?
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Unread 09-10-2016, 01:47 PM   #9
Davy
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Chris, is the shower area higher than the bath floor or even with it? It's hard to tell.
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Unread 09-10-2016, 02:05 PM   #10
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The entire bathroom, shower included, is currently level. Shower area is not raised.

Re: framing, I'm not overly worried about the structural stability. The 2nd floor overhangs the ground floor of the house by about 24 inches. (You can see the exterior wall just above horizontal 2x6 #1.) So, I plan to further support the shower by adding framing on top of the house's exterior framing to support the subfloor, and adding blocking to the back of the house as well. (There was a shower in this area before as well...) Does this sound OK?
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Unread 09-10-2016, 02:53 PM   #11
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What's supporting the toe plate from underneath,in reference to the pipe wall?
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Unread 09-10-2016, 03:53 PM   #12
codude
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Just those four horizontal 2x6s, up to the point where they but the joists and boxed them off. Is that what you meant?

I plan to add support so that it also sits on the exterior framing of the first floor of the house, about where the (sawed off) horizontal 2x6 is located.
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Unread 09-10-2016, 05:07 PM   #13
ZZZK
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That framing is way sketchy IMHO. 2x lumber has a ton flex laid on its side like that. So much so that Im having trouble finding a calc that will give you any deflection numbers on a 2x6 laying flat.
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Unread 09-10-2016, 09:04 PM   #14
wwhitney
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Originally Posted by Chris
Re: framing, I'm not overly worried about the structural stability.
Be worried. That framing is awful and needs to be redone. Flat 2x6s can't be used as floor joists. Not even one little bit.

Cheers, Wayne
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Unread 09-10-2016, 10:52 PM   #15
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Any suggestions for re-doing the framing?
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