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Unread 08-17-2005, 12:42 AM   #1
mommybgood
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Vapor barrier on foundation walls???

Hello! New here, just need to know.....DO YOU or DO YOU NOT use a vapor barrier on concrete foundation walls?? We have 2 foundation walls furred out and ready for CBU, we will use a vapor barrier on the one wall that is stud framing, but will the same barrier cause a problem on the cement walls???
Please help!!
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Unread 08-17-2005, 06:51 AM   #2
cx
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Welcome, aboard. I already got one mommy, please to give us a first name.

A lot of the success or failure depends upon how you've constructed and treated your basement walls, but for the most part, for interior construction, you would treat them like any other exterior wall situation. Use the moisture barrier on the shower walls.

There is some controversy about the top of the interior furred walls. I vote with the side that says to leave them open to ventilation.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 08-17-2005, 06:52 AM   #3
Shaughnn
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Hello Mommy,
I don't do any work below-grade so I can't offer you any advice on this one but someone should be along soon enough who can answer your questions.
Shaughnn
PS: And here's one now. Thanks CX
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Unread 08-17-2005, 09:00 AM   #4
dkochel
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I'm in the middle of a concrete block basement re-do, and after exhaustive research, I found the method that makes the most sense is to use expanded polystyrene rigid foam sheets with plastic skins on both sides. These are glued directly to the block walls with 3M aerosal adhesive. I'm using 2" thick sheets. The theory is that by insultating the walls this way, you eliminate condensation problems on the interior surface because it stays close to the room's ambient air temperature. And since the foam sheet is glued to the block, there is no space for moisture to accumulate against the colder block surface. The plastic skins function as a double vapor-barrier, just in case things happen to come loose over time. Of course the block has to be waterproofed as necessary from exterior infiltration first. The wall framing is then built out a few inches from the foam surface, anchored to the ceiling and floor - no block wall penetrations are necessary. Check local codes first, some areas require these type of walls to be the "floating" variety (and some even dictate type of vapor barrier which would render this entire post irrelevant).

Cheers,
Doug K
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Unread 08-17-2005, 09:55 AM   #5
mommybgood
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Thankyou! (My name is Shelly) I got home from vacation last night to find that the furring strips were up and the greenboard and exhaust fan/light were installed on the shower ceiling. We are working in a 1936 bungalow that has had some seepage in the basement, but only if I overwater. So I want to plan for the possibility of some moisture behind the shower walls. Am I nuts???The foam core insullation sounds like a great idea, never considered the condensation problem! As far as venting the top of the furred walls, can you give me some detail for this situation?? Is it a matter of removing the green board at the edge of the shower ceiling?
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Unread 08-17-2005, 10:41 AM   #6
Peterg
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Hmmm... water from the outside. What happens if it rains for a week? Does the water come thru the wall itself or at the floor to wall abutment, or both? What region is this? Is this a hillside dig out, if so how much hill is above you? The water penetration may seem relatively small now, since there is freely circulating air for evaporation. You dont want to entomb water. Is there a drainge system on the outside of the wall (membrane, mirafi and/ or drain rock) Is the wall circa 1936 or a later addition?
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Unread 08-17-2005, 10:53 AM   #7
mommybgood
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Yeah, I know, water..... We are in the inland NW, SE Washington wine country! Not alot of heavy rain here ever, so I'm the culprit (IE leave the soaker on all night) We've been in the house5 years and have never had rain seep in. We're not on a hillside, in fact we're on a terrace above the street, which has been great for basement plumbing. I have never had water actually come through this area of the basement, but I had established plantings up there that don't need alot of watering. ANYWAY, I think you understand my concern about trapping water behind the VB and CBU, maybe a mold/mildew issue there? But then again, will the CBU just be destroyed by water without a barrier? What if we redguard the back of the CBU before putting it up?
I'm all ears, the tile guy will be here any minute....
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Unread 08-17-2005, 11:50 AM   #8
Peterg
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I dont know about redgard as an intrusion block. But if you can collect any water and run it over a preslope to a two part clamping style drain that would help. Hold the wood furring up off the floor to prevent wicking. or cut it up if its already up. Preslope to the wall, Redgard or mebrane up the wall as a standard shower pan. Hopefully any water entering will run down the wall and into the pan/drain. Air space is good for evaporation between backer and block wall and a plastic vapor beteen framing and cbu, especially in the lower 2/3s of a shower walls
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Unread 08-17-2005, 12:09 PM   #9
mommybgood
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Thankyou! Looks like we'll be OK!
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Unread 08-17-2005, 03:30 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mommybgood
.....We are working in a 1936 bungalow that has had some seepage in the basement, but only if I overwater. So I want to plan for the possibility of some moisture behind the shower walls. ....
yo, Shelly! that plan had better include a good landscaper. I'm bettin' a couple of donuts that your landscaping is not channeling water AWAY from the house. You might also have to move some of those plants - expecially thirsty ones - away from the house so you can cut down the watering. At a minimum there should be a 1" / ft slope for at least 3-4 feet from the foundation walls. Smart landscaping can help a lot, but in real wet areas you may have to do other things, including cleaning/repairing the tiles around the foundation. But be careful - you can easily get ripped off so get several opinions and look for consistency.

once you fix the drainage you can also use something like UGL on the interior - not Redgard.
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