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Unread 05-28-2017, 07:04 AM   #1
jb9
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Seeking Wet Room feedback for Schluter System

Hello,

I am new to the forum but I have been trying to educate myself so please excuse any ignorance about the Schluter system.

I am designing a small "wet room" in a small "shop" (12 x 16). I have attached two renderings of my design. I would like to use the Schluter system but I would like to know how to best design the slab to ease installation. As you can see, the shower will basically be the floor of the room. I will probably have some kind of a teak floor mat (removable to facilitate drying). How would a pro design the slab break between the wet room and the living space? I am open to using a curb on the threshold but it may not be super tall. I expect I will also drop the slab in the wet room but I am wondering how much might be optimal for the components in the Schluter system. I know there are a lot of knowledgeable pro's here, so any thoughts are helpful. The whole room will most likely need tile given my application.

Thanks in advance.
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Unread 05-28-2017, 08:41 AM   #2
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Hi jb. If you plan to use Kerdi, you won't have a preslope, liner and another mud bed. Instead, you'll just have a mud bed and Kerdi. I would probably extend the recessed slab out into the living area about a foot more if you don't plan on a curb. If you do plan on a curb, a short concrete or brick curb wrapped in Kerdi would work. Seems like a trip hazard to me.

The whole floor would need to be tiled over the Kerdi, even under the wood slats.
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Unread 05-28-2017, 10:07 AM   #3
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Is there a way to seal the kerdi around the toilet drain and toilet flange fasteners? If not, I would think a wall hung toilet would allow better floor waterproofing.

Cheers, Wayne
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Unread 05-28-2017, 01:34 PM   #4
Davy
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I agree with Wayne, a wall mounted toilet would be better. As is, the toilet would probably have to be sealed to the tile with a small opening in the back. The toilet is on the upper part of the floor and hopefully slopped so water can't get under it, it's still not the best design. If this is still in the design stage, I think a wall mounted toilet would be the way to go.
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Unread 05-28-2017, 06:42 PM   #5
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Thanks Davy and Wayne. Those are good suggestions. The toilet is against an exterior wall but perhaps I could frame up a way to bump out the wall to keep the waste line inside the building envelope. I also wonder if I could build up the floor around the toilet flange. Let me redraw some things and report back.
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Unread 05-28-2017, 07:03 PM   #6
jadnashua
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Many wall-mounted toilets have a tank in the wall which may not be the best for an exterior wall (depending on where you live), but there are some that have a tank along with the bowl that is all on the outside of the wall. WIth the sloped floor, that makes mounting and sealing around the toilet tougher, too.

IMHO, you don't want to try to deal with a floor-mounted toilet in a wetroom. If you can, move the toilet to an interior wall and use an internal tank and bracket - I think they look better, and there are more choices available.
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Unread 05-28-2017, 08:20 PM   #7
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If I decide to go with a wall-mounted unit and based on my drawings, which of the following shower trays (Kerdi Shower-ST) makes the most sense?

Dimensions of the wet room are 5' 8" and 4' 3".

I attached what I saw from the Schluter website. Would it make the most sense to get a large sized ST and custom cut it so the preslope goes from the wall to the drain?
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Unread 05-28-2017, 08:47 PM   #8
rmckee84
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Packing a mud pan, and using a kerdi drain along with kerdi membrane would save you some money and allow you to build a pan to whatever dimensions you choose. If you pack your own you can also have a level perimeter, if you start cutting on a prefab pan you end up needing to use dry pack to fill in areas anyways.
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Unread 05-28-2017, 08:59 PM   #9
jadnashua
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It might work better to slope the whole floor away from the doorway and use a linear drain at the far wall.
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Unread 05-28-2017, 09:05 PM   #10
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I'm not seeing the need for the recessed teak floor mat. Is this going to serve a purpose? I can see it making a deeper floor to hold more water but other than that I can't see much need for it.
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Unread 05-29-2017, 07:36 AM   #11
jb9
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I like the idea of packing a mud pan and using a Kerdi membrane to make a pan and slope of the dimensions that might work best for this (unique) wet room. When people use the term "Kerdi" are they referring to the membrane mostly? Also, I have redrawn the toilet with a 1 1/2" platform and I am wondering if I could use Kerdi V-board or Kerdi strips along the side, if that could be a possible solution that might allow for a standard toilet. I also drew in a door to show where the door would be (along with a 1" curb).

Regarding the removable teak floor mat, I had the following ideas:

-good solution to keeping finish floor heights similar (if I had a floating engineered wood floor on furring strips in the living area)

-allow the recessed floor of the wet room to potentially hold more water if a shower was being taken

-removable wood floor mat could be taken outside to dry quickly (and replaced)


Thanks for all the helpful suggestions so far. I appreciate it (and I grant that this design is a bit unconventional).
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Unread 05-29-2017, 09:29 AM   #12
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Hi JB9,

I see that if you can't easily change the dimensions of your space, then the toilet has to go on that exterior wall. But a wall hung toilet is really the proper way to do a wet room.

Using one won't require enlarging your room. A standard toilet projects about 30" from the wall behind it. You can get wall hung toilets that project 24" or less, I looked at a random one that was 22". So that means you can build a 2x6 wall against the exterior wall to house the in-wall tank and conceal the DWV plumbing, without causing the toilet to project farther into the room.

BTW, the minimum code-required side clearance between a toilet and a wall is 15", but that can feel tight. So I suggest you allow at least 17" or 18".

Cheers, Wayne
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Unread 05-29-2017, 10:49 AM   #13
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If I were going to build it like your drawing, I would recess the concrete in the wet room 3 1/2 inches and mud the floor up later to fit the slats. But, to me, removing the slats after every shower would be a pain.

And since you're still in the planning stage, I'd at least look into Wayne's wall hung toilet.
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Unread 05-29-2017, 10:55 AM   #14
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Thanks for these recommendations Wayne and Davy. I think you guys are making a strong case for a wall mounted toilet so I did some basic research to see what the dimensions of the wall carriage are and I did a redesign. How does this look? Thanks for the reminder on the 30" toilet clearance too. I have a nice generous spot with almost 24" on either side so I think this design will work if I can get the floor to drain and dry cleanly like the Schluter system purports to do.

Does this look better?
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Unread 05-29-2017, 11:24 AM   #15
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Several comments:

With a kneewall like that behind the toilet to hold the wall hung carriage, you are going to need to bolt something to the concrete wall. Either the top plate of the knee wall, or maybe you can find a carriage that can be bolted to a wall.

24" centerline side clearance on a toilet is overkill, 18" to 20" (finished) would be plenty. I have code minimum 15" in my house and it's fine but think 3-5" would be an improvement. But I would consider the sink an obstacle in measuring the toilet clearance. So if 4'3" is the finish width, then with 36" for the toilet, the sink can be 15" in that dimension.

Waterproofing the sink and toilet to wall connections (plus the toilet flush button) will still be an important detail, but much easier than dealing with waterproofing a floor standing toilet.

Where do you keep the toilet paper that will stay dry when showering? A random thought, you could use a shower curtain that runs the 4'3" dimension directly in front of the toilet. It could be on a right-angle rod or track in the ceiling, so that when not in use it stores on the wall opposite the shower head.

Maybe with a curtain you could use a floor mount toilet, I'm curious what others think about that.

Cheers, Wayne
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