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Old 06-22-2018, 06:31 AM   #16
ARB63
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Mark - Thanks for the additional info!

Davy - Thanks for your input... Can you please provide any guidance on pulling up the carpeting and re-attaching it? I've found videos and articles on adding shims to *new* carpet installations, but couldn't find anything on how to do this with existing carpeting...

Thanks again.
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Old 06-22-2018, 11:57 PM   #17
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It depends on the configuration of the adjacent room. Mostly, you’re peeling back as little carpeting as possible so as to maintain as much of the current “stretch” as possible. Then adding a tack strip parallel to and ~1/2” shy of the tile, ensuring it’s at the correct height relative to your shingles that will be ramping up to it. Then tacking the shingles down. Then stretching the carpeting onto the tack strips with a carpeting knee kicker or stretcher. The carpeting is then very carefully cut to the edge of the tile and then the edge is tucked down into the slight 1/2” gap between the tack strip and tile. (To keep the edge of the tile from being too sharp...it helps if you hit the edge of the tile with a rub stone to soften the edge or simply install a metal profile strip at the edge of the tile) And I like to add a final touch by very carefully using a hammer to ever-so-slightly peen down any sharp protruding tacks. This takes time carefully working your fingers down into the carpeting to feel where they are. But I gotta warn you that you’ll chip a tile if a misguided blow from the hammer hits the edge of the tile.

Obtaining a knee kicker from a rental store is easy. But some folks have difficulty coordinating kicking the carpeting and getting enough stretch in the carpeting as you’re working it onto the tack strips. Upgrading to a more expensive carpeting stretcher tool provides more leverage for stretching, but it’s a bit fussy, and isn’t as easy to find in rental stores. So...not always, but often you can maintain most of the carpeting’s tension and eliminating the need for a knee kicker or stretcher by securing a 3/4” strip of wood, like a 1x4 into the carpeting with several nails (never screws) ahead of time. The orientation of the 1x4 is perpendicular to the direction of the tension/stretch. You locate the 1x4 as close as possible to the tack strip while allowing room to install your ramp shingles. Do this before demo. Then perform all your work, only removing it when you’re ready to secure the carpeting onto the tack strip. When you remove the board, what remaining tension the carpeting is under will pull itself tight into your new tack strip (so be sure to apply downward pressure onto the carpeting at the location of the tack strip during this removal).

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Old 06-23-2018, 02:59 PM   #18
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Thanks, Tool Guy!
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Old 06-23-2018, 03:34 PM   #19
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Years ago I had a helper that had carpet experience. He liked coming in after we tiled a job to tuck in the carpet against the tiles. He would charge the customer 100-125 bucks to do this and make a little spending money. If you don't want to do it yourself, you might call a carpet company or two and see if have someone.
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Old 06-23-2018, 03:42 PM   #20
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Actually, I'd prefer to do it myself (or at least try!) but I guess I can call a pro if I get into trouble...
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Old 06-23-2018, 04:46 PM   #21
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Yeah, it's not difficult. I have used Z-bar against the tile too. It allows the carpet to tuck under against the tile. Makes a nice look.

Like this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mGvIaujR-Fs
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