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Unread 11-11-2014, 10:30 PM   #1
lati_cz
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reclaimed wood question

I'll be building house. Architetcs specified siding on whole house as made of reclaimed wood.
I contacted lumber yeard where we'll be getting (most likely) the wood. They told me to expect around 30 years to last.
Is there any treatment to extend the time? Or is there any spec. forum you can recommend?
Thank you Michal
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Unread 11-11-2014, 11:32 PM   #2
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Siding that's expected to last only 30 years? Expensive and not durable. Hmmmm.

I don't know if I'll have info you'll need, but I'll ask a few of questions to get the ball rolling.

Where/what is the wood reclaimed from?
Any limitations on the preservative in terms of opacity or transparency?
And what's the wood species?

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Unread 11-11-2014, 11:35 PM   #3
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Yeah, I think we'd need to know the specifics, Michal. "Reclaimed wood" covers a whole lotta ground.

Hell, Goldstein, thirty years is longer than I expect some of the Cedar we get these days to last.
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Unread 11-12-2014, 08:53 AM   #4
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It's mix of douglas fir and pine. Wood is originated in Montana. It'll be board and batten vertical siding.
here's link where architects got inspired:
http://www.houzz.com/photos/5002478/...xterior-denver
discussion on link makes me uneasy. The house won't have veneer stone, boards will be installed all the way down.
We're looking for some sort of treatment, where look/patina won't be compromised.
Thank you Michal
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Unread 11-12-2014, 04:32 PM   #5
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With wood going all the way down, it will rot at the bottom. I don't care what you treat it with. It may last 30 -50 years, it may last 5 -10.... Plus you have to remember it will get dinged from the mower, weed trimmer, kids bikes, etc
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Unread 11-12-2014, 04:47 PM   #6
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My favorite sealer for such natural wood exteriors had long been Behr's Natural Wood Finish. But then that kinda disappeared and I don't know if one of their newer products is the same stuff re-packaged or not. You might try to find out if that's the case. Was good pookey. Behr.

For the past ten years or so I've used Penofin's Red Label stuff in their Clear color. Also very good pookey in my experience.
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Unread 11-12-2014, 09:46 PM   #7
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thank you
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Unread 11-12-2014, 10:17 PM   #8
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So someone wants to use lumber whose protective coating has deteriorated to the point that the wood is already suffering from exposure because "it looks pretty". Doesn't surprise me. Folks and designers and architects all too often seem to think we live in a disposable world. Glad you're thinking about ways to protect it, Michal. Should really be the job of the high-paid architect who specified it, but that's another topic.

I can tell you that some cities have an ordinance against unpainted wood and using something like this reclaimed stuff would earn you an order to paint it. Should that happen, it would be some serious egg on the face of the person who specified such. Hopefully, that's not the case where y'all are at.

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Unread 11-13-2014, 10:29 PM   #9
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I think I found acceptable solution.

http://www.montanatimberproducts.com...zeman-montana/

HO likes it, I'll sleep better.
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Unread 11-14-2014, 07:40 AM   #10
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That looks like the ticket, Michal.
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Unread 11-15-2014, 12:18 PM   #11
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You might also consider back venting all the siding - it makes wood siding last WAY longer, any finishes you put on will also last incredibly better.

There are other benefits to the practice, that I won't go into right here.

See http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/...ut-rainscreens

This system works, and it is worth the time. If customer is going to put out $$$ for the material they want, they should be willing to pay just a little more $$$ to get a long lasting installation.

If you want any advice about how to do this easily and affordably send me a message, I've used it in the past to great success.
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Unread 11-15-2014, 12:32 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carlo
If you want any advice about how to do this easily and affordably send me a message, I've used it in the past to great success.
Carlo, one of the beauties of this website is that all the useful information posted here is available to more than ten thousand visitors that stop by here every day. If you have useful information to share, please post it right here in the public forum to benefit more of our visitors.
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Unread 11-15-2014, 12:41 PM   #13
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OK! Absolutely! I love stuff like this!

Also check out http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...nd%20the%20gap for an even more in depth article on the subject with extra sciencey goodness.

I've had great luck with Benjamin Obdyke products, they make one for this specific purpose - it's called "Home Slicker". They also have an product that is an integrated house wrap and rain screen in one, but i've never used it.

On another project I made my own ventilation channels using corrugated plastic. I bought it for $10 per 4x8 sheet (from a sign making store), and then ripped it down into strips. (this is the same stuff you see in yard signs)

It provided support for nailing, but also allowed any water that got behind the siding to flow down and out. There is a pre made product called Cor-a-vent that is basically the same thing but turns out to be at least 4x the cost of making it yourself. It is good stuff though.


In relation to this particular forum - I once saw someone build a shower using a similar system. He hung plywood on the walls, which he covered with Grace Ice and Water Shield (I would not recommend for indoor use...) then he used furring strips to create a vent channel and hung up some "board and batten" style cedar strips. No finish applied to the wood. Looked and smelled amazing 6+ years after the fact.
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Unread 11-15-2014, 05:30 PM   #14
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Great info on the rain gap, Carlo

Lati_cz - architects are worse than engineers (like me). Do you really want to be messing with this stuff for the rest of your life? I can tell you from personal experience that carpenter bees love stuff like natural wood siding.

This is how I'd handle the idea of the reclaimed siding

"Architetcs specified siding on whole house as made of reclaimed wood." I told them their hyper aesthetics driven solution is impractical so update the design to use hardiplank. I want a livable home not a maintenence headache.

Good luck!
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Unread 11-16-2014, 11:21 AM   #15
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Thank you guys for your input, I am going through reading posted here. Very interesting stuff and I will definitely put in consideration. Nailing strips will be installed horizontally, so probably a corrugated material should be used for draining.

I was loud and honest about my opinion regarding to reclaimed wood with homeowner. He listens to me and I believe we'll use the alternative I posted above. Architects re did plans due to my objectives already once, sometimes I feel I am "brake" on the project, but I believe it's right think to do.

Another topic: Has anyone here have experience with liquid window flashing? I've used several types of "standard" flashing, probably successfully, no leaks yet. But I see alot of installations (almost all commercial where is delay between flashing and top materials installation) where flashing when exposed to elements peels off from sheating, even when primer is applied. I wonder how flashing acts after is covered?

I installed new vinyl windows in building which was planned to be bulldozed in 2 years. I used Hydroban as flashing, it passed rain season without a leak.

http://www.wrmeadows.com/air-shield-...hing-membrane/



Thank you again, I appreciate your input. Michal
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