Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Welcome to John Bridge / Tile Your World, the friendliest DIY Forum on the Internet


Advertiser Directory
JohnBridge.com Home
Buy John Bridge's Books

Go Back   Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile > Tile & Stone Forums > Tile Forum/Advice Board

Sponsors


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Unread 02-01-2012, 10:32 AM   #1
ejpuot
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 38
Starting Shower Tile Job

My only other experience with tiling is a floor I did about 5 months ago and it came out great. I now have to tackle a stand up shower. I already have a fiberglass shower pan installed and plumbed. As for the backer board, is there any preference out there between Hardibacker, Durarock. etc? If not, what's the best method for installation and waterproofing. Walls are 8ft high, can I go right up to the ceiling or is it preference? The studs are 16 OC. Is the Kerdi board much more expensive than the Hardi or Dura?
Thanks,
Mike
__________________
Mike
ejpuot is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Unread 02-01-2012, 10:42 AM   #2
Lazarus
Texas Tile Contractor
 
Lazarus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Beaumont, Texas
Posts: 8,447
Yes, the Kerdi-Board is more expensive, but is good stuff...

Aside that, you can attach tar paper or plastic sheeting to the studs, overlapping the pan flange and install any popular cement board over it.

You can install cement board directly to the studs and cover the face with Hydroban or Redguard, but tying it into the pan will take some expertise.

You can install regular drywall on the studs and cover with Kerdi membrane, tying it into the pan with Kerdi-Fix.

With a standard shower, you can waterproof to the ceiling, but it's not necessary. Typically you waterproof up to at least the showerhead.

__________________
Laz
Lazarus is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-01-2012, 10:48 AM   #3
bbcamp
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 30,274
Kerdiboard is more expensive than any cement backerboard. I don't think it is worth the extra price, unless there is more to this shower than 3 walls.

Any of the cement backerboards will be fine. Use the cheapest one.

You can waterproof your shower by either installing a plastic sheet on the studs or use a surface waterproofing membrane. Your budget will help decide which is best for you.

You must waterproof at least as high as the shower head, but people often go all the way to the ceiling. It isn't much more tile, and it does look nice to most folks. I would not tile to the ceiling if the ceiling sloped or was wavey and I was using a small tile. In that case, I would leave about 12 inches untiled and paint it instead.
bbcamp is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-02-2012, 08:51 AM   #4
ejpuot
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 38
Do I need to tape the joints? What is more effective, the Redguard or Plastic behind the backer board?
Thanks
Mike
__________________
Mike
ejpuot is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-02-2012, 09:01 AM   #5
bbcamp
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 30,274
You tape and mud the joints in accordance with the backer board manufacturer's instructions.

Both waterproofing methods are effective, if installed correctly.
bbcamp is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-02-2012, 09:04 AM   #6
ejpuot
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 38
Great thanks...one last question I forgot to ask. Any special method for installing the backer board when it meets the flange of the shower pan?
__________________
Mike
ejpuot is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-02-2012, 10:02 AM   #7
bbcamp
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 30,274
We like to overlap the flange where possible. In any event, we want the waterpoofing to overlap the flange, so if using a plastic sheet as your waterproofing, drape it over the flange, then set the backerboard either over the flange or about 1/8" higher than the flange. Set the tile so it is within 1/8" of the tub or receptor's deck, and caulk that joint.
bbcamp is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-20-2012, 07:06 PM   #8
ejpuot
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 38
The mortar is now drying after taping the joints, as it dries, I can see the ouline of the mesh tape. I am assuming this joint doesn't have to look like a sheet rock joint anred that I don't have to go over it again to make it smooth before I apply the Redguard?
Thanks,
Mike
__________________
Mike
ejpuot is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-14-2012, 01:18 PM   #9
ejpuot
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 38
laying out shower tile

I am done with the redguard and will start laying the tile in the shower, pan is fiberglass. If I'm using 12x12 tile, can I stay with the 1/4 inch spacing that I used on the floor? Not sure for a shower if it would be any different. Also, when I get to the corner, what is the best layout for the two edges meeting? What I mean is, do I but one tile directly up to the wall and have the other tiling (coming in at a 90) spaced at a 1/4 inch or do I have them both spaced 1/4 inch from the wall and grout the entire corner all the way down?
Thanks,
Mike
__________________
Mike
ejpuot is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-14-2012, 02:05 PM   #10
RaymondJ
Addicted to Portland Cement
 
RaymondJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Northampton, MA
Posts: 429
1/4" grout line will be just fine; though I prefer 1/8th on walls, if your tiles allow it and it suits your fancy. I find it sets the wall off a bit from the floor.

leave at least an 1/8th inch gap where the tile would meet the wall, same as you would for a floor.

you never want to butt any tile directly against an immovable surface, or one that is subject to expansion/contraction (a change of plane)

you can do this for the back wall, leaving a gap at the left edge and the right edge of the tile run.

then for your side walls, set your corner tile so that it creates a proper grout-line width in the corner, and continue to tile from there.

or you can set your tiles equally distant out from one another which creates a larger space beneath.

in this case, and if you plan to 100% silicone caulk this joint instead of grout it, you'll want to fill it with foam backer rod, to take up some space, rather than fill it completely with caulk.

it is recomended, and industry standard, to caulk all changes of plane (corners) with a flexible material instead of a hard grout. However many folks grout this joint, and if it shows signs of cracking over time, dig it out and regrout, or caulk it.

Generally speaking, I don't like any caulk inside my shower, only tile and cement
Attached Images
 
__________________
Raymond
My work so nice! (cause I does it twice )

Last edited by RaymondJ; 03-14-2012 at 02:14 PM.
RaymondJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-15-2012, 07:17 AM   #11
ejpuot
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 38
Awesome Raymond, thanks for the response..one final question. Do I need to use a sealer on the tile after it's installed? I am using a 12x12 porcelin and Laticrete grout that doesn't need to be sealed (so I assume the grout I won't have to seal).
Thanks,
Mike
__________________
Mike
ejpuot is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-15-2012, 07:26 AM   #12
John Bridge
Mudmeister
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Rosanky, Texas
Posts: 68,419
Send a message via AIM to John Bridge
Hi Mike,

No sealer, based on what you've said.
John Bridge is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-15-2012, 07:58 AM   #13
ejpuot
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 38
Great, can't wait to get started, this forum is a life saver!!
Thanks,
Mike
__________________
Mike
ejpuot is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Stonetooling.com   Tile-Assn.com   National Gypsum Permabase


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Starting a tile job 20 x 20 tiles nwhitmire Tile Forum/Advice Board 8 05-16-2008 06:38 PM
starting new tile job tiger-88 Tile Forum/Advice Board 3 02-25-2006 12:22 PM
Starting my shower tile job (suggestions?) nonstopaz Tile Forum/Advice Board 54 10-23-2005 08:22 PM
Starting over with my slate tile job DaveR Tile Forum/Advice Board 5 12-16-2004 07:50 PM
Starting first tile job. KenCT Tile Forum/Advice Board 1 04-21-2002 06:10 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:30 PM.


Sponsors

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2018 John Bridge & Associates, LLC