Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Welcome to John Bridge / Tile Your World, the friendliest DIY Forum on the Internet


Advertiser Directory
JohnBridge.com Home
Buy John Bridge's Books

Go Back   Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile > Tile & Stone Forums > Tile Forum/Advice Board

Sponsors


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Unread 07-08-2005, 05:56 PM   #1
MChartre
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 13
Trowel for mesh back mosiac?

I will be laying a 3' x 3' mesh back mosiac this weekend in the middle of some field tile. What would you recommend for a trowel notch? Also, would I benifit by cutting the mosiac into say (4) 18" square pieces and laying it in quadrants?

Thanks,

Mike
MChartre is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Unread 07-08-2005, 06:10 PM   #2
Shaughnn
Trowel Monkey
 
Shaughnn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Kent, Washin'ton
Posts: 11,467
Hi Mike,
That's a really big mosaic! How large/small are the individual pieces? If it's tiny pieces, I'd say that you'd be better of with an 3/16" v-notch trowel. If it's larger pieces, step it up a size or two. Remember, that while everything is linked together by the backing mesh they are each individual pieces and require a notch that will give them all addequate support and coverage. What size the field tile adjoining the mosaic? Is there a differance in thickness between the mosaic and the field tile?
I'd lay the mosaic onto a sheet of masonite (smooth side up) and then comb out the thinset using a notch that's gonna leave you a little "proud" of the field tile. Then, with the help of several other people, lift the masonite and tip it so that the mosaic slides into the thin-set bed like a giant pizze off of a peel. Using a stiff straight edge (might even use a long 4" x 4" after it's been run through a mill to true it up) lightly tamp the mosaic into place. If you notice high spots, work the material down gentle with the straightedge and avoid creating low spots at all costs. This-set will ooze up through the mosaic. You can clean this away with a stiff paint brush, a hydro sponge and some water. If you have a great deal of "floating" to do under the mosaic, I'd suggest using a medium bed mortar instead of thin-set. It will be less likely to sag over the drying period.
Maybe this helped and maybe it didn't. Answer the questions at the top and I might be able to revise my suggestion to suit.
Best of luck,
Shaughnn
PS: Most towns have a lumber yard/ mill that will true up stock material for you. While you might not care to spend the cash on a solid piece of fine0grain maple for your straightedge, some other straight-grained hardwood will need to be used. You *could* use a 4" level, but it's footprint is awfully narrow and you may end up creating channels in the mosaic instead of tamping it down flat.
Shaughnn is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-10-2005, 10:57 AM   #3
John Bridge
Mudmeister
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Rosanky, Texas
Posts: 68,417
Send a message via AIM to John Bridge
Hi Mike,

I would cut the mosaic into manageable pieces. No way will you get it set in one piece without a ration of misery.
John Bridge is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Stonetooling.com   Tile-Assn.com   National Gypsum Permabase


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:29 PM.


Sponsors

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2018 John Bridge & Associates, LLC