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Unread 07-05-2013, 05:45 PM   #1
by-eye
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Master Bath by-eye, I'll need a little help

Hey all,
So I demoed my mother's master bath. This is my 6th bathroom, but this will be the hardest yet. My deflection is L / 458, 2x10's and 1/2 sub floor. First, here are some demo pics.
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Unread 07-05-2013, 05:49 PM   #2
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Looks like you are jumping right in! 1/2 subfloor? Maybe 5/8 nominal?
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Unread 07-05-2013, 05:50 PM   #3
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Below this bath is the kitchen. The plumbing is a big job because the shower and tub are inverting positions. I have an excellent plumber.
The WC room is staying and getting a pocket door.
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Unread 07-05-2013, 06:02 PM   #4
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That's where I was going next PC.
I'm planning on doing warm wire in SLC and ditra. I know I can go on top of that 1/2 with 5/8, but I'm considering removing the sub floor and installing 3/4 T&G. But I've never done that. It seems to have a big advantage in that it will keep the finished height down, and the plumbing will be easier.
In the meantime, time for drink
A big thanks to the forum and all the great folks here.
Mark
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Unread 07-05-2013, 07:53 PM   #5
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Hi Mark,

Removing the subfloor will afford the added benefit of being able to check out and shore up the framing if necessary.
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Unread 07-06-2013, 07:02 AM   #6
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So I've searched and need some clarity on supporting a wall after subfloor removal. The other side of the wall shown is a bathroom. The wall is not load bearing. As you see, the joist is about 10" from the sole plate.
1. Do I support it by installing 2x4's 16" O.C. perpendicular to the joists?
2. Can I just reach in with my screw gun to the next joist and fasten the 2x4's with deck screws, or will I have to do better and take down the ceiling below?

Thanks
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Unread 07-06-2013, 08:43 AM   #7
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1. Yes, that's a way. I'd likely space them on 24" centers in your application.

2. Yes, if you're careful to keep the bottom plate in plane with the floor on both sides. With a non-bearing wall that may involve nothing at all, or you may want to screw a cleat to the under-floor joist such that you can lever that bottom plate (and its wall) up just a little while you install your blocking, which can be as small as 2x4 material.

You'll then need to install blocking between your new blocking to create nailers for your new subflooring.


My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 07-06-2013, 10:57 AM   #8
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Thanks CX. The wall is only 8' and is supported on both sides and only holding the wallboard on the one side, so I'll let it "float" while I install the blocking.
Advice is appreciated because I've never done this before.
The rest of the perimeter walls will have support because of the joist layout, but I have about 3/4" on one side that will protrude from the sole plate.
1. What is the best way to fill that to raise it to my new 3/4 sub floor? Mortar, SLC, 1/4 strips of ply, spit and earwax?
Mark.
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Unread 07-14-2013, 01:38 PM   #9
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So, I've been having some issues, mainly with product selection that is not my decision to make. I won't bore you with that.
I am going to use the existing drains, redoing it is too much money.

Well back to the subfloor, I need affirmation.
3/4 T+G will be tough to use because I won't have room to lay it flat and bang the tongue into the groove. (dirty mind )

1. Will 3/4 x 4 ft. x 8 ft. BC Sanded Pine Plywood from the orange store be OK?

I will be using warm wire mats in SLC with ditra on top.

Thanks everyone.
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Unread 07-14-2013, 01:56 PM   #10
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Not sure I understand the question, but.......

If you are talking about the first layer of subflooring and you can't install T&G properly, you'll need to install blocking under the between-joist joint between the panels. That can be done quite easily after the first sheet is installed.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 07-14-2013, 02:26 PM   #11
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Yes CX, that's the ticket! Thanks so much, I get now.
Mark
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Unread 07-24-2013, 02:13 PM   #12
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So I'm working on the blocking, and I understood what cx meant about "levering" the wall. This is the water closet, I wish I hadn't framed the walls, then decide to do new subfloor.
So, do I need to install blocking where the new subfloor meets the perimeter walls where the joists are perpendicular?
I've installed some already, but it's not like it's going to be a "traffic area. I think I know the answer, but thanks for looking. Got my permits now too.
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Unread 07-24-2013, 06:23 PM   #13
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Unless its T&G then you need blocking
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Unread 07-25-2013, 05:24 AM   #14
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Does the hole for the drain with the wye laying flat there exceed the notching and boring guidelines?

http://www.tileyourworld.com/constru...oringGuide.pdf
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Unread 07-25-2013, 06:49 AM   #15
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Paul, I didn't have "room" to properly install t+g. BTW, thanks for all your great input on the boards.
Notching and boring guidelines? Pfft, that's for sissies. Ironically, that's the way a lot of plumbers think.
That pluming was existing, and fortunately, was installed correctly. The picture is a little misleading.
Thanks....
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