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Unread 09-06-2011, 09:11 AM   #1
luke52
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Luke's bathroom project questions

So I just finished my shower pan preslope. I had read several tutorials seeing as I've never mudded before. But after reading more from this site, I'm not sure if I've goofed up.

I used Quikrete type N mortar mix for the preslope. I now know to use the 1:5 deck mud mix (per the liberry) for the layer above the PVC, but will my pre slope be ok. Will it be strong enough.

I added 1 gallon acrylic to the 60 pound bag. It was like wet sand after mixed. It was a bit hard to work with as I've read now. But I got a good 1/4" to 1 feet slope to it. I did end up splashing some water on it to make it smooth on the surface.

Thanks for your help!

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Last edited by luke52; 09-12-2011 at 09:35 AM. Reason: Title change. Consolodate posts to one project post.
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Unread 09-06-2011, 09:16 AM   #2
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Welcome, Luke.

There's not a problem with that material for a pre-slope if you can get it in there and properly shaped. I just can't imagine trying to make a sloped mud bed using brick mortar with an additive in lieu of water. I'd just take the beatin' instead.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 09-06-2011, 09:28 AM   #3
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Thank-you! That's a load off my mind.
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Unread 09-12-2011, 08:56 AM   #4
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PVC Shower pan liner question

First time shower pan DIY'er

I just finished installing shower pan liner over preslope. Few questions.

1. I left a little slack on the walls. My reasoning being if the next mud layer pushes into the floor corners, didn't want the PVC to stretch. Is this OK?

2. However, should the liner be skin tight against the curb so it muds well?

3. Water drains great except for a 2 inch wide puddle half way down on one spot. I could remove liner and skim that or leave as is.

4. Lastly, I glued the liner (under the liner, using correct PVC liner solvent) to the PVC drain assembly piece. I'd seen tutorials using caulking. Is this ok to PVC glue?

Thank-you for your help.

Luke
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Unread 09-12-2011, 09:15 AM   #5
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Luke, it'll help if you'll keep all your project questions on one thread so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered. We can give it a more generic title any time you'd like to suggest one.

1. Can't see it from here. Don't know what constitutes "a little slack" at your house. You would generally want the liner to fit pretty closely in all the contours of the shower pan, but you're correct in not wanting to stretch the corners.

2. Needn't be skin tight, but should conform closely.

3. Should all drain, but I wouldn't worry about a 2" wide puddle.

4. Poor idea. The object of the caulking under there is to make a gasket to seal the liner to the bottom flange when the top flange is bolted on. Your thin PVC cement, especially the liner cement, isn't gonna do much in that direction. But what's done is done. Hope for the best. If you never have a clogged drain you'll likely never get to test it.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 09-12-2011, 09:44 AM   #6
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Thanks for the reply.

I tried editing title to "Luke's bathroom project questions", but probably didn't do it right.

Regarding slack. I guess w/o a picture I would describe as this. I start with tightly pulled up on wall as high as it will go with corners tucked as best I can, then I lower the top of the liner on wall by roughly 1/2".

I can always reattach and pull snugly up the wall.

Aside from that I'll leave as is and go on. Thanks.

Luke
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Unread 09-12-2011, 10:00 AM   #7
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You're not able to change the thread title, Luke, but I've changed it on your behalf.
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Unread 09-14-2011, 09:28 AM   #8
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So I decided to just start over. In addition to the above, I hadn't notched out the studs for the PVC liner. I removed the preslope which ended up being easy. After removing the curb the preslope came up easy since I had roofing felt under it and it wasn't adhered to the subfloor.

I used the 5:1 deck mud recipe and I have to say, it was soooo much easier to work with than the mortar mix. Thank-you very much.

Question: I already had put up parts of the CBU. Now I realize I need blocking for niches and possibly railings in the future. Can I just unscrew the CBU from the studs and rescrew it back up? It shouldn't hurt the CBU, right?

Thanks.
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Unread 09-14-2011, 09:38 AM   #9
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Luke, did you staple lath to the subfloor before placing your preslope?

Yes, you can remove and replace backerboard.
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Unread 09-14-2011, 09:42 AM   #10
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I put lathe down both times. I stapled it the first time. Didn't staple second time. It wasn't moving anywhere so I didn't bother. If you're asking if the staples made it harder to remove, it didn't because there weren't many. Or did I goof up again by not stapling it, uggh.

edit: I notice your in East Tennessee. I'm in Chattanooga.
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Unread 09-14-2011, 10:00 AM   #11
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I dunno how much to rely on the staples. The lath is to reinforce the mud like rebar reinforces concrete.

I grew up in Chattanooga. I now live in Kingston. Small Internet, no?
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Unread 09-14-2011, 10:09 AM   #12
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Ahh, I see you were just checking to see if I put lathe down. All this stress from not knowing what I'm doing is making me panicky, lol.
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Unread 09-16-2011, 09:47 AM   #13
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Question on bathtub:

Here's a picture of my bathtub. I installed CBU. On the side wall, I notched out enough material so it could lay over the tub flange and not butt out. On the end walls, I put the CBU 1/4" above the flange.

I used washers to attach the tub to the studs. The nails I used initially were creaking badly when the tub moved. To make the washers lay flat I had to shim them.

I notched out the CBU to go around the shims and washers and the CBU is laying 1/4" above the shim/washer.

I had planned to Redgard the walls. Can I still do that and how do I handle the areas where there's a gap between CBU and tub flange, shims/washers.

Thanks.

EDIT: So here's what I think I'll do. I'll silicone all the 1/4" gaps between CBU and flange, washer/shim. Then I'll thinset the gap from CBU to tub ledge leaving a 1/4". Then I'll silicone that. Than I'll Redgard down to the tub ledge. Tile over that leaving 1/4" gap, and silicone that.

So is the 1/4" gap always left so silicone or caulk has something to adhere to? If it's flush, you can't get silicone or caulk in there? So when I do my shower and lay the CBU over the PVC liner, I leave a 1/4" gap so I can silicone the joint? Then I can Redgard the shower CBU all the way down to the PVC?
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Unread 09-16-2011, 12:09 PM   #14
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Luke, that looks awful. Sorry, man, but it needs a re-do. Consider these suggestions:

1) Fur out the studs so the backerboard can overlap the flange and fit to within 1/4" of the tub deck.

2) Use washer-head screws to secure the flange to the studs. These have wide heads so you don't need a separate washer and the head will stay parallel to the flange without shims.

3) Cut new backerboard. For the end walls, cut it so the horizontal seam at the tub's front apron is about 1" below the bottom of the rounded section. Yes, that looks wasteful, but it will be in your bathroom's best interest to do it this way. You can grind out a little on the back of the backerboard to clear the screws.

Tape and mud the joints, then apply the Redgard. After the Redgard cures, caulk the bottom edge of the backerboard to the tub.

You do these things, and we won't be seeing you back in a few years with a leaky shower and a mad-as-heck Mrs. Luke chomping at your hiney.
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Unread 10-03-2011, 09:10 AM   #15
luke52
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Thanks Bob. Redid with your directions.

Now ready to tap/mud and redgard.

Question on niches:

After researching, I've decided on the following steps.

1. Determine approximately where I want niches and make sure I have studs or vertical blocking.
2. Regard the walls
3. Tile up to 1 tile length away from niche area.
4. Cut niche to match with grout lines
5. Install horizontal blocking
6. CBU, tape/mud niche area
7. Regard niche area
8. Continue tiling

Do you see anything wrong with this plan?

Also, any recommendations for where to place niches.

Thank-you again.
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