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Unread 02-14-2020, 12:22 PM   #1
jadziedzic
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Framing for alcove tub (tile above) - how much extra width?

I'm tearing out an old fiberglass tub-shower unit, which will be replaced with an alcove tub with tile above and to the floor along the front apron of the tub. The wet wall is framed approx. 34" wide.

If a 32" wide tub is installed in this area that leaves about 2" of space from the face of the apron to the edge of the framed wall. Is that enough space (width) for tile to run to the floor, or should I add a couple of inches to the width of the wet wall? We'll be using a tile that's about 3"x9" (horizontal).
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Unread 02-14-2020, 06:02 PM   #2
rmckee84
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Up to you, there's no real standard for that. If you want a larger piece of tile add to it. Around 2-3" is pretty common
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Unread 02-14-2020, 09:53 PM   #3
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Welcome back, Tony.

I'd want more than two inches for a tub leg, but as Ryan points out, there is no standard for what you're asking. Adding at least another 2x4 to that framing would be my recommendation.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 02-15-2020, 07:24 AM   #4
jadziedzic
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Thanks, appreciate the guidance!

(My last project still looks great!)
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Unread 02-21-2020, 11:51 AM   #5
jadziedzic
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Recommendations for niche heights in tub-shower?

I'm planning the layout of tiled walls around a tub-shower, and was wondering what the pros normally use for the locations of niches in the wall. The niche will be located on the "long" wall. I'd also like to install horizontal grab bar on that wall, between 33 and 36 inches above the floor of the tub (in line with ADE recommendations). The tub ledge is 20 inches above the tub floor, and the surround tile is likely a 3x8 subway or equivalent.

The vast majority of the time I'll use this as a shower, so I think a niche located around chest height (i.e., running about 48 - 60 inches above the tube floor) makes sense. Would it also make sense to try to fit in a shorter niche below the grab bar for soap storage for bathers?

FYI, I'm trying to lay this bathroom out so it will be "child-friendly" if we decide to sell in a few years once we hit retirement.
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Unread 02-21-2020, 11:58 AM   #6
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Tony, please keep all your project questions on one thread so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered. A moderator can give it a more generic title any time you'd like to suggest one.

Your niche questions are purely a mater of personal choice and I'm not aware of any rules that might apply. Your well-thought-out locations will be just right for your application so long as Mrs. Tony agrees.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 02-21-2020, 12:03 PM   #7
jadnashua
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For the grab bar(s), make sure to screw (construction adhesive is a good addition) blocking so you can screw into that. Grab bars rarely are sized to hit studs, and even if they were, that's unlikely to be where you want the thing!
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Unread 02-22-2020, 06:41 AM   #8
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I had used bar soap my entire life, but switched to bottled when our new bath was pressed into service. I couldn't have all that soap accumulation in a soap dish or niche, running down the tiles, tub. Just no.

With all the things people are trying to absorb while doing a walkthrough of a house they're not going to catch that there's no soap dish/niche.

IMO, natch.
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Unread 03-07-2020, 07:57 AM   #9
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I have a couple of additional framing-related questions as I prepare to rip this bathroom down to the studs. To recap, the tub alcove will be tiled to the ceiling, and Wedi/Kerdi (W/K) board will be used as the tile backer.

1) I've seen some pictures where framers have installed horizontal blocking between studs in a tub alcove just above the tub flange, presumably to provide support for the edge of the backer board. I didn't see anything along those lines in the W/K installation instructions, and was wondering if adding blocking there is a good idea to minimize movement if someone pushes on the tiled wall.

2) The (new) ceiling drywall will have a texture ("slap brush") finish applied to it before tiling so it matches the rest of the ceilings in the house (the drywall mudding & taping will also be done before tiling). Would it be advisable to run a narrow length of drywall (maybe 4-6 inches tall) on the wall just below the ceiling in the area of the alcove to allow the drywall guy to tape that joint to eliminate air movement? The W/K board would butt to that section of drywall and tile would continue across that horizontal band of drywall up to the ceiling. Since there may be a bit of texture right at the edge of the ceiling drywall I'm not sure I can count on a good air seal with butting the W/K board to the textured ceiling.

I plan to end the wall drywall panels a few inches away from the front apron of the tub to allow the W/K board to extend down that area for better waterproofing. I will also be installing continuous 2x8 horizontal blocking in the alcove walls for future grab bar installation. Do the pros have any other suggestions with respect to framing around the tub area?

Thanks!
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Unread 03-07-2020, 08:27 AM   #10
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1) - Isn't technically necessary if you're using the correct thickness of wall board (1/2") and your stud spacing is correct (16" OC) but certainly won't hurt. I'd probably do it, but I'd hold the blocking up an inch or two above the flange and I'd be certain the blocking is dead flat - not bowed in or out.

2) You might check the Wedi specs to see if drywall joint compound, and what type of compound, is allowed. If it is allowed I'd just run the Wedi to the ceiling and tape/mud it as usual. If not, install the strips of drywall, but they would need to be closer to 10-12" so that the compound can be feathered sufficiently. In either case you'll want those joints finished before the texture goes on.

Extra blocking for future grab bars is a good idea. Just be careful with your 2X8's, hard to find them not bowed or cupped. You might have better luck with 2X6's.
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Unread 03-07-2020, 09:52 AM   #11
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Good call on the air sealing. I disagree with other-dan on the compound feathering though, as you're tiling to the ceiling. No need to add extra labor or extra thickness to that corner.

Edit: Actually, I would do the strips of drywall if running the wedi board to the ceiling would cause me to buy an extra sheet. If it works out with the sizing of the backer board, I think you would be fine for air sealing with the wedi sealant. Just mask the ceiling and dont be a slob
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Unread 03-13-2020, 01:15 PM   #12
jadziedzic
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Thanks for the comments regarding framing.

One more (I hope!) question:

What's the recommended type of drywall to use in the rest of the bathroom? I believe there's "greenboard" in there now (which I'll start tearing out tomorrow). Should I go with one of the claimed "mold resistant" products (purple board, mold guard), or just stick with regular drywall? I've not seen any mold issues in any of the walls of the house where I've done renovations in the past.
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Unread 03-13-2020, 02:23 PM   #13
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A bathroom with a properly sized and used exhaust fan has no more need for anything other than gypsum drywall than has any other room in the house.

If it does not have such an exhaust fan, a MR Board is not likely to help, anyway.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 03-13-2020, 03:29 PM   #14
jadziedzic
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Thank you - installing an exhaust fan and using it are on the top of my list!
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