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Unread 12-05-2020, 07:26 AM   #16
pls
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We met with our local tile store guy and spent a couple of hours on design. We considered a number of options and he convinced us that moving the plumbing around could be pretty costly and not a lot of gain. So we are working with things in basically the same location. The newest design has the door being moved and the window being in the same opening but narrower so we have more open space. Shower is now 36 x 72. I like how Rich has a full narrow wall at the end for the hand spay and might do that. Plan is to have niche in pony wall. So my questions
1. Still open to suggestions. Project will not start until Jan
2. I believe this design forces me to use an electronic valve since the the only wall available for a standard valve is an outside wall unless I want to get wet everytime I turn the shower on.
3. If I put the valve in the shower head wall the access panel will be in our bedroom. Can the valve go in the vanity wall which has a walk in closet on the other side?
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Unread 12-05-2020, 07:40 AM   #17
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Do you have storage space planned? Everyone’s different, but I planned 2 large vanity cabinets, 2 sets of double recessed mirrors cabinets, and 5’ wide closet. My crap takes up a few shelves. My lovely wife’s (in case she reads this) stuff fills the rest of the available storage to the gills.
Just the COVID ready toilet paper hoard takes up 3 shelves in the closet. Just kidding, but we do store toilet paper in there; accessible from the toilet area, for obvious reasons....
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Unread 12-05-2020, 07:54 AM   #18
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We have considered a tower storage unit between vanity and toilet and something under the window. We have not yet been to the local cabinet store to see what our options are.
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Unread 12-05-2020, 07:57 AM   #19
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Jeff any chance you have a picture of your recessed mirrors cabinets.
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Unread 12-05-2020, 09:07 AM   #20
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Phil,

I installed an electronic shower valve when I did my master bathroom. I don't recall there being any limitations as to where the valve assembly is placed. Of course it needs to have an access panel, and have GFCI protected A/C available. Aside from that you have to be able to run the plumbing to and from, and have enough space in the wall cavity for water hammer arrestors on the hot and cold supplies. Finally, the controller(s) have to connect to the valve but the included cable - which is basically just 4 wire phone line terminated with an RJ11 connector, can be extended. Well, at lease they could be extended for my system.

If you go the E-valve route I'd use two controllers if the system supports them, one near the vanity and one on the outside wall in the shower.
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Unread 12-05-2020, 09:19 AM   #21
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Quote:
Jeff any chance you have a picture of your recessed mirrors cabinets.
Used these: http://www.glasscraftersmirroredcabi...ss-flat-mirror They’re designed to fit into a standard 2x4 wall. Lots of similar options. I’m sure there’s ones to fit a 2x6 wall as well.
Not the best pictures of them in my build thread here: https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin...121365&page=10
I’ve found it pretty near impossible to have too much storage. Too much crap, yes. As I’ve done renovations to the house over the years, I’ve moved more to a focus on functionality and maintainability over “wow” factor. That just comes with age (and laziness).
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Unread 12-05-2020, 09:24 AM   #22
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Those are very similar to the frameless "medicine" cabinet I used in mine, Jeff. A nice set up from a builder grade M/C.
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Unread 12-05-2020, 09:44 AM   #23
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Jeff’s point on storage is definitely something to think about. In my project I’ve removed a large closet entirely and so lost a lot of storage space. To get some back I am also using medicine cabinets (30 tall by 24 wide, so they’re quite large) and instead of a piece of furniture between the vanity and the toilet I built a pony wall based on a 2x12 width so that I could have significant storage there. So between the vanity, the medicine cabinets, and the pony wall that’s the sum total of my storage. It’s less than what I had before but a lot more attractive I think!

In your design I think a pony wall by the toilet allows for a bit of privacy and storage while maintaining open sight lines which is a good thing. Also as you said that space under the window is a great space for some sort of cabinet solution.
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Unread 12-05-2020, 12:28 PM   #24
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One of our first designs was a pony wall for the entire length of the shower (6ft) and a knee wall to hide the toilet. I did a mock up and it made the area between the shower and toilet knee wall too narrow. We can take a look at it again with the shower wall just glass and maybe a shorter wall by the toilet.
Thanks for all of the ideas.
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Unread 12-19-2020, 07:56 AM   #25
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The budget keeps going up with all of your good ideas
The shower is on an outside wall. I would like to improved the insulation if I can. It is vinyl siding with house wrap and no insulation on the outside of the sheathing. Walls are 2x4. Current insulation is probably R-13 fiberglass. I plan on using Kerdi board under the tile. I was in HD last night and there is R-15 insulation and a RMax foam board that at 3in is R-20.
Questions
1 - Can the RMax be used between the studs? I am thinking not because it has a vapor barrier on it.
2 - I stumbled across the concept of a thermal break. Is it worth applying something to the face of the wall studs to create a thermal break and if so what are some suggestions?

I do not understand the details of vapor barriers etc so thanks.
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Unread 12-19-2020, 08:37 AM   #26
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Yeah, I pretty much abandoned my budget fairly early on.

Given the location, Phil, the house has to deal with temperature and humidity
extremes, those exterior walls need to breathe. I'd be very reluctant to use that foam board you mentioned, especially if it has a vapor barrier.

Thermal bridging: In your case the bridge(s) are the wall studs. The outside edge gets cold, that cold goes through the stud to the inside edge and thus right into the wall board. A thermal break disconnects the wall board from the studs so that the cold isn't transferred from the studs to the wall board. There are different ways to accomplish a thermal break but I'm not aware of any that don't also increase the thickness of the wall.
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Unread 12-19-2020, 08:45 AM   #27
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I would be ok with something that was in the .5in range.
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Unread 01-06-2021, 06:44 PM   #28
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I hope it is ok to ask a question is someone else’s thread. When you use a center drain Kerdi pan and have the pan then Ditra Heat then Kerdi are there any issues with changing the contour of the tray such as where the slopes meet?
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Unread 01-06-2021, 09:25 PM   #29
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Phil, I brought your question from the other visitor's project thread to prevent confusion both places. Always best to keep your questions on your own project thread so folks have as much context as possible when responding.

That said, I have no personal experience with what you want to do, but I can say with confidence that you'd do better adding that heating system to a properly sloped mud shower floor than to an already less than adequately sloped foam tray.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 01-07-2021, 07:06 AM   #30
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I priced those medicine cabinets and had sticker shock.
My first thought was 33" is to narrow. Glad you made the shower wider. But even 36" is not going to be a 2 person shower. So only reason to make it so long is if you want to go doorless or you add a rain head out 42" or so. I am glad I made a mud pan. My first one and I'm convinced anyone can do it. I did go curbless but needed a ramp and used a foam one. It would dent so easily I can't imagine being able to protect all the different slopes in a kerdi covered foam shower pan. I was able to put plywood on my 15" ramp or step over it after I found out a knee or heavy palm could leave an indention.
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