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Unread 11-26-2012, 11:49 AM   #121
Winter River
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Have you considered cabinetry, bookcases, or a bench over the crack? If you can't tile over it, maybe you could build over it and tile around it.
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Unread 11-26-2012, 01:17 PM   #122
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Listen to Elise. 12" is just right for a bookshelf, or you could go deeper for an armoir-type built-in. You could build it on the subfloor and tile to it, or even tile under it and not care if it cracks because no-one will see it.
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Unread 11-26-2012, 03:32 PM   #123
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Yes, that is a good idea. Most of the area is hidden with a tv cabinet and a dresser. Their will be one visible spot. About foot and a half in view. While I know this is not what is proper, we may just tile the area anyway and use silicone grout matching caulk and pray for rain. While, I don't like that idea, it is still a cheaper route. To lay wood will cost me 3 times the amount I will have in it. Has anyone ever experimented with laying a row of tiles at the wall with another form of adhesive than thinset? Like something that would flex? Once again, I know this isn't what is preferred but may be what I must do till a later time.
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Unread 11-26-2012, 07:54 PM   #124
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The thinset alternatives would cost over $100. Add a grout joint over the crack and fill with tile matching silicone to make it disappear. If you don't mention it, no one will notice. And we'll never say anything.
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Unread 11-26-2012, 08:29 PM   #125
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Cabot, would you tell me the thinset choices? So I would have an idea..
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Unread 12-02-2012, 08:07 AM   #126
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I have a dilemma I need to get past. I have a niche cut out that is 13x13. When I cut it originally, it was for a different tile. That tile is no longer available. My hardi and waterproofer is installed so this is not something I can just redo. The tile is 12x12 in size. To the left of the niches is gonna produce a sliver of tile about 3/4 of an inch. The niche was located centrally between two studs so that governed my placement. How would you tile this to avoid the 3/4 piece? I thought about a border. I just don't know how to since the size is 13 inch and all trim pieces are 6 or 12. Here is a picture of the niche. Thanks for the help.
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Unread 12-02-2012, 08:48 AM   #127
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You didn't include the pic of the niche, Roger
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Unread 12-02-2012, 09:07 AM   #128
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I didn't ok let me do that. Name:  ImageUploadedByTapatalk1354460853.195386.jpg
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Unread 12-02-2012, 10:21 AM   #129
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Roger,

Some really nice guy took the time to start a thread of niche pictures for just this very purpose ! Isn't that cool?

There you can see a variety of treatments and designs. Hopefully Mrs Roger will like something she sees that isn't too difficult for you to install.
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Unread 12-02-2012, 10:33 AM   #130
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Yes I have looked through tons of those pics. Unfortunately, putting together a design is difficult for me. Plus, I have only what's at lowes or Home Depot to use. Their trim tile is nice but not much choice. Here is the chair rail tile that they offer. Could this be used? It is 6 inches. Other trim tiles are 12 inches. 1 inch short of my niche size. Or would you use a 16 inch tile and cut out a border? Name:  ImageUploadedByTapatalk1354466023.815326.jpg
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Unread 12-02-2012, 10:36 AM   #131
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You can order from Floor & Decor and have real stone trims shipped, as well as ceramic and porcelain.
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Unread 12-25-2012, 11:04 AM   #132
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Merry Christmas everyone! Quick question. I am installing 16x16 porcelan on concrete this week over a bathroom and a 12x15 room. Would you use Customs Marble, travertine mortar because its medium bed or would you use Flexbond for the crack isolation. I feel I need the crack isolation. Thanks for the help!
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Unread 12-25-2012, 12:15 PM   #133
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If you slab is cracked then a membrane is in order provided the crack has no vertical displacement. If your slab is in good shape then either mortar will work. Many Pro's like to use a membrane anyway
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Unread 12-25-2012, 03:31 PM   #134
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Is aqua defense or red guard ok for this?
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Unread 12-25-2012, 04:15 PM   #135
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I don't use AD so I can't speak to its AF properties. RG says it offers some. As long as there is no moisture below the slab you should be OK with RG.

Is that enough acronyms for one response?
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