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Unread 04-05-2010, 05:29 PM   #1
DavidHyde
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Drain base installed flush with subfloor

Hello everyone. Newbie here.

I'm trying to make a new tile shower. Everything is framed and plumbed. The problem is the drain base is installed flush with the wood subfloor.

Here's the question; can I feather edge the pre-slope mortar bed? Put another way, how thin can the pre-slope mortar bed be at the drain?

Just to avoid confusion, I'm talking about the pre-slope mortar bed that goes under the vinyl shower pan.

Self leveling concrete will take a feather edge. Can I use that for the pre-slope?
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Unread 04-05-2010, 05:34 PM   #2
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Welcome, David.

You live in a state where it's legal to kill plumbers?

I don't like to see people run a pre-slope down to nothing like that, especially over a wood subfloor. But there's really no requirement except that the pre-slope be solid and provide a slope of at least 1/4" per foot from the farthest point on the shower floor to the drain.

You can't taper deck mud that thin. You can run deck mud to within a foot or so of the drain and finish the slope with some patching material or even some thinset mortar.

I still won't like it, but absolutely nobody will care.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 04-05-2010, 06:36 PM   #3
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You can cut out the drain with one of these, then add some pipe and make the new one as high as you want
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Unread 04-18-2010, 07:40 AM   #4
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Thanks

CX and John;

Thanks for the great advise.

David
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Unread 04-18-2010, 02:02 PM   #5
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Who's John ??
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Unread 07-07-2011, 02:40 PM   #6
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Shower project

I just read your how to article on Cement Mortar Shower Curbs. It appears that you are tiling the walls of the shower before applying the deck mud on the vinyl liner. My project has reached the point where: the pre-sloped mortar bed is down, the vinyl liner is down, the CBU walls are installed and taped. I was about to install 1 1/2 inches more deck mud on top of the vinyl liner AND THEN do the shower curb. In your article, you seem to be doing this in a different order. Can you advise a newbie?
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Unread 07-07-2011, 04:38 PM   #7
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Do it in any order you're comfortable with, David. I think it's easier to complete the curb before the finial floor mud, but perhaps that's because I learned shower construction with mud walls.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 09-09-2012, 08:31 PM   #8
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How do I remove one tile

Hello all. Newbie here.

I have a situation with one tile on a shower project. The tile is about 13 inches by 10 inches. It's a transition tile, it's on the wall outside the shower, where the tile stops and wallboard begins. I'm using the natural edge of the tile for the transition, not special edge pieces. The tile makes an outside corner into the shower. The tile was applied with Prolite and the thinset is totally dry.

Here's the problem. Unknown to me, the tile was moved after it was set. It screws up the line. I could cut off 3/16 inch on one side, but then the other side would be short.

I have a 12 inch blade for my reciprocating saw, I could try to cut through the thinset, but that would gouge the wall and ruin the adjoining tile that makes the other side of the outside corner.

Here is my plan. I have an ablative blade for my skillsaw. I set the depth for a little less than the thickness of the tile plus thinset. I make a cut every 1/4 inch. Then I do the same thing at a ninety degree angle. I knock off the remaining tile with a chisel, grind the remaining thinset with an angle grinder, paint to repair the wall and start over.

I hope some of you pros out there have a better idea.

David
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Unread 09-09-2012, 08:42 PM   #9
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I would usually cut the grout using an angle grinder that has a 4 inch diamond blade. But first of all, how was the tile installed? What's behind the tile?
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Unread 09-09-2012, 08:44 PM   #10
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Welcome back, David.

To what is the tile adhered?

What waterproofing method was used for your shower walls?

[Edit]

Great minds, and all that.
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Unread 09-09-2012, 10:00 PM   #11
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Davey and CX;

I appreciate your interest.

The tile in question is part of my shower project, but this particular tile is not actually IN the wet part of the shower proper.

The wet part of the shower is tile on wonderboard, and the tile job flows out of the shower, turns the corner and continues on the wallboard by the vanity. That's where this tile is located. This tile is on top of ordinary painted wallboard. This particular tile is not waterproofed because it will never get wet.

The tile I'm using for this project is Unicom Starker. It is slightly thicker and harder and more durable than other tile I have used.
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Unread 09-10-2012, 05:23 AM   #12
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cut the grout out from around the tile and hit it with a hammer. that should crack the tile. you can then use a flat head screwdriver to pry the pieces out.
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Unread 09-16-2012, 08:15 AM   #13
DavidHyde
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I removed the tile. I thought I'd let all know how it worked out.

I appreciate everyone's advise. I couldn't cut the grout because I hadn't grouted yet.

I scored the tile eight times and hit it with a hammer. Nothing happened, so I hit it harder. If I hit it hard enough it would leave a small divot. So, I hit the tile about eight times and it cracked into pieces which I pried off. The thinset would not scrape off. I had to pry the thinset off of the wallboard and that removed the first layer of paper.

When all was done the wallboard was in pretty bad shape, cracked in several places. I patched the wallboard with joint compound and sanded it smooth and painted and applied a new tile, so it's all good.

Now that's it's finished, I know what I should have done. I could have removed the errant tile without damaging the wallboard this way; Starting from the edge of the tile, use my diamond blade on my angle grinder, cut the thinset behind the tile, then cut off the piece of tile thus freed. Repeat. That way I could avoid cracking the wallboard.

My bathroom project is far from finished, so I'm sure I'll be back with more dumb questions.

David
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Unread 12-01-2012, 05:02 PM   #14
DavidHyde
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Worlds Longest Shower Project

Hello all, newbie here.
I am finally ready to tile the floor of the shower. I am using 2 inch squares. The tiles come glued to a mesh, and in places there is so much glue there is no bare tile.
Should I remove the tiles from the mesh?

David
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Unread 12-01-2012, 05:54 PM   #15
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To a test board to check adhesion. If it fails, then you're setting them one at a time.
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