First Time Tiling A Shower

[RollTideFan]

Hey Guys,

Been a while since I been on the board. I recently started a new home addition by taking in my garage as a Master Bed / Master Bath.... I've always got excellent advise from this board in all my tile projects I have done in the past. this one is no different. With that being said could one of you pros visit my questions below and give me some good advice? Thanks.

1. Im having my plumber put in my pan, drain, and mortar bed. All I want is someone to get me to the point of putting down tile. But I want to make sure its done right. Anything in particular I need to watch for to make sure he does this area correctly?

2. Do I need to put green board over my stud walls then backer board over that, then tile over that? Or, can I just put backer board over the studs then tile?

3. Do I need to use 1/4" hardi board or 1/2" hardi board for shower walls.

4. What about ceiling area. Is standard sheet rock ok in this area?

Thanks Guys,
Otis

[Dave Taylor]

1. Im having my plumber put in my pan.... Anything in particular I need to watch for to make sure he does this area correctly?

Lottsa' things..... what kind of floor..... wood or slab?

Here are a few pan ideas.... check our Library for particulars and other ideas.

Drain sized as per code.
Deck mud used.
Drain centered in the pan.
A mud preslope formed first..... 1/4" slope per linear foot to the drain.
A pan liner installed and properly clamped to the drain.
Pan liner covers curb properly.
Pan liner pre-formed corners used.
Pan liner nailed eight or so inches above mud bed.
Drain weep holes protected.
Curb higher than drain as per code.
No holes punched in the top or inside of the curb.
Second mud bed thick and smooth enough.
Leak test pan before tile.

2. Do I need to put green board over my stud walls then backer board over that, then tile over that? Or, can I just put backer board over the studs then tile?

Just use the backerboard.

3. Do I need to use 1/4" hardi board or 1/2" hardi board for shower walls.

Use the (almost 1/2") Hardi for walls. :---)

4. What about ceiling area. Is standard sheet rock ok in this area?

Yes.
Are you planning on tiling this shower ceiling?

PS Otis: Some folks bury the bottom of their wall Hardi a bit in deck mud.
If you do.... keep it above the pan liner by an inch or so.

[RollTideFan]

Hey Dave, Thanks for the quick response..... At this point I guess I will be assuming lots of things.... hahaha.... My plumber said he has done many of these shower / shower pans, so with that said I assume he knows my local codes (I hope). At least he talks a pretty big game :-)

The Sub Floor is a 3/4 tng plywood over 12" floor joist. Walls are standard 2x4 stud walls. The mud floor will be 1/4" / 12" slope.

Ok, I will just use the 1/2" Hardi as if it were sheet rock and put it straight to the Studs.

Yes, i did plan on tiling to the ceiling on the shower walls.

Oh before I forget, whats the best thinset to use for this project?

Thanks,
Otis

[bbcamp]

Nothing you've said so far requires anything better than Versabond for your thinset.

Make sure the ceiling joists are 12 inches apart where you intend to tile the ceiling.

[RollTideFan]

OOPs let me clarify.... I will only be tiling the walls up to the ceiling not the ceiling itself. Sorry.

Do I need to put up the backer board on the stud walls first, before the plumber puts in the shower pan, drain, mud bed, etc. Im just not sure at what point I need to put up the backer board in this deal.

Does my sub-structure seem sound enough? The treated 2x12 joist and the 3/4" TNG plywood? It sounds like it should be.

[RollTideFan]

One other thing guys, I noticed while researching this whole shower thing, You guys dont want anything penetrating the curb at the top and inside. So, what is the process for water proofing and tiling this area?

[bbcamp]

Notch the studs for the liner, place the pre-slope mud bed, install the liner, then install the backerboard. The final setting bed goes in last.

The liner is wrapped over the form for the curb. Metal lath, bent slightly tighter than the curb form, clamps the liner to the curb. You can secure the lath to the outside of the curb with nails.

After the setting bed is in, you cover the curb with 1/2" of "fat mud" (brick mortar).

Refresh your memory by re-reading the Shower Construction Thread in our Liberry.

Your floor structure is fine, provided the span on those 2x12s is less than 17 feet. I kinda wish the joists were not treated, though.

[RollTideFan]

Bob, thanks for the fine advice my good man. I will make sure the contractor does it just as you mentioned.

HaHa, yea its funny you mentioned the treated 2x12's. I specifically called the inspector about that and he emphatically told me I had to use them, I disagreed at the time but since he has to bless it I figured I'd better use them even though this subfloor is 18" above an existing concrete slab. :-) Go figure.... And yes the spann is 14ft so I should be good there.

[SilverBullet07]

Dont forget the mosture barrier between the studs and backer board unless you are going to put another type of water proof barrier on the cement board.

[RollTideFan]

Hey guys,

Got a question or two here. My shower is framed in. My shower pan and mortar beds are complete. I need to install my cement boards, water proofing, then im ready to tile.

Question 1: Do I start tiling my walls first then my floor last? Or floor first then walls? It would occur to me I should do my floor first then let the wall tiles come down to my floor tiles until almost touching?

Question 2: How far above my shower cement bed do I stop my DuraRock cement boards? Say maybe a 1/2" or so? Or, should it go all the way to the floor and touch?

Thanks Guys,
Otis

[bbcamp]

1) You can do it in any order you like, but most pros tile the walls first, sarting with the second row, then set the floor, then set the bottom row of wall tiles. This allows you to fit the bottom row over the floor tiles and leave a 1/8" sor so gap. Since that joint is caulked, it doesn't really matter if you do it that way, but most pros do, and you can't make them change.

2) Leave about 1/2" gap between the backerboard and the preslope. This keeps the edge out of any standing water and reduces the potential for wicking. Durock's instuctions should make this clear, but, then, instructions are often confusing or simply ignored.

[RollTideFan]

Thanks Bob. Thats what I will do and it makes perfect since why to do it that way. Thanks man.

[RollTideFan]

Oh another question or two, I plan on using 1/2" DuraRock as my wall backer board is this ok? Or should 1/4" be used?

What is the BEST thinset to use for my wall tiles in this shower and where to buy it?

Thanks,
Otis

[RollTideFan]

Guys I've been doing some reading and research on waterproofing my shower and I'm very unclear as to how to properly do this with RedGard. My shower is framed up and shower pan/beds are complete. So its now on to the walls. I have stud walls, with roofing felt vapor barrier, then my duraRock backer board, then my waterproofing, then thinset, then tile.

I have decided to use RedGard as my water proofing. Yes, I know you guys are huge fans of Kerdi and so am I from all I have read about it. But, with that said its a budget thing now. I just simply cant afford the 600 bucks its going to cost to put in Kerdi.

So with that said, in using the RedGard is it necessay to roll on the RedGard over the entire backer board wall areas? Then thinset and tile over that? Or, just roll the RedGard on the seams of backer board and paint brush into corners, then thinset and tile? Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Otis

[Lazarus]

Otis, if your roofing felt is tight and complete, I wouldn't use the RG...you'll create a mold sandwich there. You need only ONE protection. I prefer Kerdi or a roll-on membrane on the outer surface, but since you put up the felt, you're committed....unless you wanna pull the Durock down and slit or remove the felt.