I need a solution

[ben-e]

I am starting a large bathroom job which has wainscot 4' high around the walls with a cove tile that meets the floor tile. I believe the floor will be hexagon tiles of some sort, so I dont need to worry about joints lining up, but this will be my first time installing ceramic cove tiles. Anyone have any advice? I figured I would set the walls first?

[bbcamp]

First thing would be to verify that your floor's perimeter is flat and level. The cove is supposed to follow the floor, but if the floor dips or slopes, that misses up the cove-to-wall joint. You could make some of this up by cutting the first row of wall tiles, but if they are not large (say, 6x6 or larger), it will still show.

[ben-e]

Yeah, the floor is not flat at all. I think I will pour some self leveling cement over in floor heat, (elec) Then I should have a more level surface. Would you set the wall, and cove before the floor tile?

[ceramictec]

I think I will pour some self leveling cement over in floor heat, (elec) Then I should have a more level surface. Would you set the wall, and cove before the floor tile?

Yes.

I would find your high spot and do your layout from there.

mat, slc depth, floor tile, then your cove and make a level line at the top of cove around the perimeter of the room. run the wall tile off a ledger or use a non sag thinset, then install the base, mat, slc, etc.


tampa orlando sarasota brandon bradenton lakeland florida tile contractor floor heat tile installation install installer SLC floor level application

[ben-e]

I started thinking that it might be wise to pour, and level the floor first. That way you couldn't mess up your wall layout. I'm worried that I will pour a little too much slc on the floor, or something. Is there a reason that this is not a good idea?

[ceramictec]

I used the bottom of the cove base as a visual to pour the SLC to.
you can do it wither way, which ever way you feel comfortable with.

[Lazarus]

Even if you pour "too much" (and, trust this....that SELDOM happens. Usually the other way around.) you can still "feather out" a little extra. If too much extra, pick it up and throw it away...

[ben-e]

Thanks for the advice. on a side note, does anyone know the difference between the cove tile, and the sanitary cove? I haven't talked to dal tile yet, but the owners specified "sanitary cove base tile" It looks like that might have a bullnose on top. Wouldn't that be used only if no tile was to go on top?

[Davestone]

Yes the sanitary base sits on top of the floor tile and has a bullnosed top.

[ben-e]

Do you think anyone would ever use the sanitary when subway tile was going on top? And does it only work on top of the floor tile, or can it be flush with the floor tile. I know these are stupid questions, I just havent used these much before.

[ceramictec]

Originally Posted by Ben e

Do you think anyone would ever use the sanitary when subway tile was going on top?

it's good to look at what trim is available , Daltile has it on the bottom of this page under "Available Trim".

http://www.daltileproducts.com/serie...t=13&pg=3&c=25

you dont use Sanitary Cove base when your doing wall tile.
you use Cove Base. A-3401 or A-3601

Originally Posted by Ben e

And does it only work on top of the floor tile, or can it be flush with the floor tile.

you can do sanitary both ways

[ben-e]

thank you for the info

[ben-e]

Another stupid question, but they make right, and left corners don't they?

[ceramictec]

yes, its on that page

[ben-e]

I know most people here are Schluter die hard fans, but I came across this product recently made by Dural, named "durabase" that seems to be a ditra knock-off. I normally use Ditra, but the prices have gotten a little out of control. I found this stuff for about 300 bucks a roll, vs 475 for ditra. Has anyone used it, and does anyone have any unbiased info about the product?