What now...

[Foamspoon]

Hello,

I am trying to do as much as possible with my bathroom renovation. I am currently working in the shower. I question is what now? I installed the cement board. I was told 1 1/2 from the pan, now I see a lot of people but it 1/2 inch from the pan. Is 1 1/2 too much or will the mud make up for that.

Also what is my next step? Should I mesh tape and thin set the seams and screw holes?

Please take a look at the curb where the board goes over the curb. Should I re do the whole board, add a little piece of board or will the mud take care of the gap?

I have more questions but I will start with that?

Thank you,

Bryan

[scuttlebuttrp]

I really hope you screwed the CBU on.
Did you put a preslope under that pan?
Do you have a vapor barrier behind the CBU or are you planning on using a surface mounted membrane to waterproof your shower?
The other concern is your curb. That point where you simply sliced your pan and folded over the curb is the way I see all plumbers do it here in Florida. It's also the biggest failure point around and is one of the main reasons so many shower have to be rebuilt here. You have to glue more pan material onto the corner there so that your barrier is carried completely outside the shower area.

[Foamspoon]

Royce,

The plumber did that and assured me that it is fine. The CBU is screwed and there is a plastic behind the CBU.

Bryan

[Foamspoon]

Yes the pan is pre-sloped.. another thing the plumber told me I did not have to do?

So I should unscrew the CBU and add additional pan material around the curb?

[scuttlebuttrp]

Yeah I love plumbers.
CODE! We don't need no stinkin' code!

OK. If you have a preslope and plastic sheeting behind the wall, I'd unscrew your 2 side boards at least enough to affix a peice of pan material at those 2 corners. Just use either the dam corners which are difficult to find usually or use leftover pan material. Glue it on with X 15. Sold in the plumbing aisle at Home Depot.
Then go to the "Liberry" and read the shower thread. You need to mud your pan and finish your joints with alkili resistant mesh tape and thinset, and also mud your curb.
Remember; no screws or nails through the pan liner below finished curb height. So put lath on your curb before mudding your pan. The pan holds the lath on the inside.

[scuttlebuttrp]

Are those nails in the top of the curb? first pic.

[Foamspoon]

Yes I asked him about that too. "Not a problem!"

[scuttlebuttrp]

Your plumber is an idiot.
You have 2 choices. Either glue little patches over those nails with pan liner and X 15.
Or tell him to get back there and do his job right. We have a copy of the plumbing code somewhere around here if you need it to argue with him.
or if you'd like a second opinion from REAL plumbers; you can ask these guys:
www.terrylove.com/forums/

[Foamspoon]

First off thanks for your help.

What about taking a solid piece and running across the top of the curb and up the sides to seal it?

where would be the best place to buy a piece of the pan material? Would I have to buy a whole role?

Thanks again.

Bryan

[scuttlebuttrp]

You can glue a solid piece if you want.
You can buy pan material at Home Depot by the linear foot. It's around $5 or so per ft. Plumbing aisle again.

[Foamspoon]

Can I use PL Glue?

[scuttlebuttrp]

No.
X 15.

[Foamspoon]

Two more question. Should I buy a new board and re cut it so it fits better around the curb? (Pic One)

and is it a problem that the CBU is 1 1/2 inches from the pan?

[scuttlebuttrp]

No your board is fine. Your mudpan will be at least 1.5" thick. You can make your curb as thick as you want also.

[ceramictec]

I dont see any plastic behind the CBU from this shot plus exposed wood.
or any Dam Corners.