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Unread 12-07-2021, 05:52 PM   #1
CgarSmokr
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Anyone Ever Use VEVOR Shower Base/Curb Kit?

I will be removing a 5' FRP tub W/shower surround and building in a 36" X 60" walk-in shower. Plan is to use JM GoBoard on the walls, which I have acquired, though I had to drive 350miles to get it. Fortunately I was able to pick it up on return trip from Montana while recently passing through Spokane. However, I haven't been able to obtain the Manufacturer's recommended screws or sealant as of yet.

My current challenge is deciding upon a floor pan system to use with the GoBoard. JM has their own WedgeBoard system, wherein I would measure and cut four 48" X 48" pieces for the shower floor (details omitted for brevity). Cost of just the foam wedges alone is about $240 locally, nothing else included.

Other pre-formed, trim-to-fit pan systems (pan only) available in the area (Portland, Or.) run approximately $450-$475. In addition to the pan I would need sealant, banding material, corners, curbing, drain system, etc., which really adds up in total cost.

One package I am looking at is the Vevor brand 'Shower Curb Kit, 38"x60" Watertight Shower Curb Overlay with 4" ABS Central Bonding Flange, 4" Stainless Steel Grate, Curb, Etc.' which has pretty much everything needed.
This system appears to be a "knock off" so to speak of the Schluter-Kerdi pan kit, at a substantially reduced price of around $196 shipped. The kit looks about identical to the Kerdi except for the grey Vs. orange color. I believe both pans are EPS foam structure from what I've been able to find out, though I have never seen either in person. Shower backer board (except cement/cement-fiber types) and shower floor systems seem to be in very short supply in the area, consequently need to be ordered from out of the area. I don't have a lot of faith in the fact they would arrive undamaged, but, what else to do?

Areas of concern are:
-Mosaic tile (not decided specifically) will be used on floor. EPS material does not have significant compressive resistance, though it may be adequate, along with thinset to properly support mosaic, probably 2"X2", to keep mortar and grout from fracturing and allowing leaking. Been in use for a long time so I assume it is substantial for the purpose. The JM GoBoard material, Polyiso foam, on the other hand apparently exhibits something like 200 PSI compressive strength. It is very dense and 'hard' compared to EPS foam.

-Wall backer board to floor panel interface: JM recommends their proprietary sealant (or approved substitute) be used between 1/8" GoBoard to GoBoard joints. Both Kerdi and Vevor have the fabric, or fuzz, which to my understanding, accepts thinset very well and form very watertight, or 'waterproof' if you will, joints/seams. After extensive reading here on the Forum, it seems the "fuzz" can be 'shaved' off for a joint to be 'sealed' using a 'sealant' Vs a thinset mortar. Would it be advisable to band the horizontal floor/wall seams and use corner fabric pieces over the seams however they are initially done?

Another question is should the floor panel(s) butt to the wall, or should the wall panels butt down onto the floor panel? I see it recommended both ways depending upon manufacturer of the system. One foam system even has a rabbet cut out of the outer edge of the floor pan for the wall panels to fit down into.

If anyone has experience using the Vevor system I would appreciate hearing about your experience and any insights regarding the use of the product line. I have found very little information on using Vevor other than a few 'Ratings' placed on an internet site from which the material can be purchased through. Thank you in advance for any information anyone can provide.
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Unread 12-07-2021, 06:30 PM   #2
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Welcome, Gary.

I am, suffice to say, not a big fan of those hugely expensive foam trays for shower floors. And unless your subfloor is already near perfectly level and flat, you'll spend as much time correcting that situation as you would in simply creating the sloped floor using mortar, specifically what is commonly called deck mud or dry-pack. And with the mortar, you will have a shower floor that perfectly fits your shower footprint, perfectly fits your drain location, and is properly sloped and level around the perimeter.

The materials are dirt cheap and the labor is free. With 15 square feet of waterproof membrane and maybe 12 feet of waterproof banding of similar membrane, you have a shower floor that will cause you no concern about its compressive strength or durability.

I've not use the Go-Board, but there's a good deal of discussion about it hereabouts. I'm not too keen on the foam boards that recommend just some pookey between pannels, but some manufacturers and their customers seem to think it works well and lasts..........I dunno how long. If there is a way to use that board with a foam tray to make a waterproof shower floor, you can use it with the mortar floor, too.

Give that at least a bit of thought before you spend four or five hundred dollars on a foam tray.

I've not seen nor heard of your Vevor kit. This is it, perhaps?

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 12-07-2021, 06:59 PM   #3
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See Noble Company ProBase11 and or the 72 hour program,will make you a custom base. We offer it pre- waterproofed or not, and and play nice with Go board. Otherwise like CX said can help you with a more “ traditional“ method..
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Unread 12-09-2021, 01:10 AM   #4
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Anyone ever use Vevor shower kit?

Thanks to CX and e3 for replies.

CX, Yes, thank you, I have searched out GoBoard and read everything I could find discussing its use here on the Forum. I have also read much about doing a dry pack mortar base with PVC membrane and I don't think I would have any problems doing it. I have done a fair amount of masonry work, brick and stone setting, fireplaces, veneers, etc. so technically I don't think I would have too much of a problem there. It just seems like a LOT of work, plus I want to keep the dead weight down as much as possible. The framing carries the load to ground just fine so no problems there, just that I'll be putting in a lot of granite and tile, all heavy materials. Seems like quite a bit more drawn out process too than going the foam base route, but not that bad I guess.

e3, I am aware of Noble's line, though the only thing I have a price on at this point is the Pro Slope 60 X 60, which is way bigger than I need. Their products look quite compelling so I will be looking into their #4620 32" X 60" Center Drain Kit tomorrow. It appears that the ProBase II would work well with GoBoard. Thank you gentlemen.
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Unread 12-09-2021, 08:54 AM   #5
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Gary, I was not suggesting you change to a traditional shower receptor construction, only that you change from a foam tray to a single sloped mortar bed for your shower.

If the difference in weight would actually be a factor, you probably shouldn't be putting a shower there at all. And you would certainly require a placard on the door saying Single Person Only.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 12-24-2021, 02:22 AM   #6
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Using a Vevor shower kit

CX, Thanks for reply---I've been on leave for a bit. Got a good laugh from your cautionary "Single Person Only" sign suggestion. Yea, that's gettin a bit anal, and over "anal-yzing" things. I'm positive the framing is plenty substantial to carry any weight I might add to the area. I just have some springiness in the upper floors due to a sagging transverse bearing wall and girder the upper floor joists rest on and tie into (girder). Ground floor beam (post and beam/cardecking) pockets at foundation wall were too low for the cross-wise beam that is directly under the bearing wall. Didn't get shimmed up sufficiently, consequently the load bearing wall had to "sag" down a bit over time until it met support from the beam underneath. I just need to get underneath and jack that particular beam up a smidgeon and add some shims, but that's another story. Just that I must do that prior to any tiling upstairs.

With respect to the Vevor, it's no longer being considered. I like your idea of the single slope but now I'd be having to mix the dry pack outside in a mixing tub in cold and wet weather, and then hunk it upstairs batch by batch---I'm looking for simplicity in the interest of saving time but it'll cost me. We'll be out a shower while this is in the works so time is of the essence. I've decided to go with KBRS ShowerSlope pan which should tie in nicely with the GoBoard.

I'd like to do postings of my project using the KBRS so would it be appropriate to change title of this thread, delete or just 'end' this one and start a new thread, or what would be most appropriate? I don't like to post just to post, only if I can post something others might find interesting and informative. Thanks.
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Last edited by cx; 12-24-2021 at 09:27 AM. Reason: Repair Bolding
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Unread 12-24-2021, 08:10 AM   #7
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We do actually prefer to keep all posts about your build in the same thread, Gary, this thread, as it already contains useful information about your build that other contributors might find useful for answering questions.

We can change the title to whatever you wish it to be. Maybe "Gary's saggy floor bathroom build". Maybe not.

And we don't mind at all when folks post written and visual updates to their build, encourage it, really. A lot of people surf these pages looking for answers and ideas.
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Unread 12-24-2021, 09:28 AM   #8
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Seems like you have already forsaken this knock-off system. I would always stay with a reputable well-known manufacturer of a waterproofing product. Not because I am into certain brands, but because there is a verifiable track record and some support structure. In my opinion, it is just not worth it to save a few hundred bucks for this essential component of your shower. Noble, Schlueter, Laticrete…., lots to choose from. Having said this, surface applied membranes are great. I love them.
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Unread 12-24-2021, 09:34 AM   #9
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I would suggest you purchase a Bucket Mortar Mixer and do all your mixing indoors, Gary. Since we (TYW) "discovered" those things some years ago, I wouldn't consider doing a shower floor without one. Dry-mix all your ingredients in five-gallon buckets and stage them near the work site. Add pre-measured water each time you need more mortar, mix for less than two minutes, and on you go. Especially useful when you're working alone.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 12-24-2021, 06:29 PM   #10
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I 2nd and 3rd that suggestion to obtain a bucket mortar mixer. At first glance, it looks a little pricey. But after you use it once, you realize how useful and time-saving it is. Doubtful you’d regret the purchase.
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Unread 12-24-2021, 11:45 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan
Maybe "Gary's saggy floor bathroom build". Maybe not.
How about "Gary's single-person shower"?

I'll throw in a few things for you to mull over regarding a mud floor for your shower. First, it doesn't really add a lot to the weight in your shower, since it's spread over the entire shower evenly. Well, it's a little thicker at the perimeter, but not by much.

Second, I'll throw in a third vote for the bucket mortar mixer. I've had one for years, and the only way I wouldn't use it is if I didn't have access to electricity. And even if you have to haul those buckets upstairs, it's just one time per bucket. It's really not as bad as it sounds. You can mix the dry components outside if you want, since most of the dust comes from that. Pour the water on top and carry it upstairs. The dust from mixing will be minimal. There's a YouTube video you can watch demonstrating that wonderful tool.

Third, you don't have to worry about denting that foam tray. I waterproof the floor first, then throw some cardboard over the floor while working on the walls.

I would guess your total cost to do that mud floor, including the bucket mixer, would be $130 or so. Way less than the tray, and much more durable. The most you could hope to save time-wise would be the day it takes for the mud to dry, and I've actually done them late in the evening, and covered them the next morning.

Whatever you decide to do, good luck with it.
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Unread 12-25-2021, 08:34 PM   #12
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Thanks to everyone who provided comments---I consider them all informative and helpful. Tomorrow I'll be going down under to work on the bearing wall support, and working on acquiring the balance of the materials I'll be needing for the job. I'll be taking leave from the Forum for a bit, thinking about alternative title for the thread, and return when commencing tear out of the exiting tub/shower, for which I already have buyers lined up on. Thanks all, and Merry Christmas, or Happy Holidays.
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Unread 12-25-2021, 09:15 PM   #13
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And happy Festivus to you, too, Gary. We'll wait right here.
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Unread 12-27-2021, 12:53 PM   #14
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Personally, I don't know why you would buy a bucket mortar mixer to build one shower if you're never going to use it again and when you probably already have a wheel barrow and garden hoe which would work just fine for one mortar bed shower pan.

But if you have $80 that you just as soon not possess any longer I do agree with the others that it's a nice tool.

Take a look at T&A supply. The one in Portland is probably the closest to you. They carry GoBoard and may have their brand of sealant and their brand of screws. They also will sell to the public.

It's hard to know these days because not everything is available like it used to be.
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Unread 12-30-2021, 08:52 PM   #15
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Thanks again guys: CX, I like the bucket mortar mixer idea, but as James says, I'm not likely to ever have need of it again, but I probably would if I had one. Yup, got a wheelbarrow and hoe here which I've mixed up a lot of concrete in but I want to take an easier route, so the ShowerSlope is on its way from Carolina. I just hope the heck it makes it whole.

James, I've checked with all the industry distributors as well as retailers in the area here, Pacific Northwest actually, and Dunn Lumber up there in your area is the only one that has the JM fasteners, but nothing else. I'm good on all but the screws now as the Kerdi washers came today and I'll find some suitable screws at a big box store. One installer told me he just uses regular drywall screws, black phosphate type, which I'd rather not, but the Kerdi washers look like they are just electro-plated anyway. Besides, water shouldn't get in to them anyway. If it does, I'll have bigger problems than the screws/washers corroding. Thanks guys.
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