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Unread 01-12-2022, 05:16 PM   #16
Snets
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Finally got all of the demo done, including the removal of the fiberglass shower pan. I have learned that the installers must have combined two career paths - one as a plumber and the other as a butcher.

I hope I have a piece of 23/32" OSB laying around, that's a pretty small patch to buy a $50 sheet.
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Unread 01-14-2022, 09:56 PM   #17
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Spent a bunch of time shimming studs to get the Kerdi board flat today; time well spent and I know I will thank myself later when setting hexagonal wall tiles down the road. I'll be soldering in a new shower valve tomorrow then off to Kerdi band on seams and fasteners.

Question about the Schluter setting products that have come out since my last shower build: Worth using or back to Versabond like my last shower? (No concern about warranty)
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Unread 01-15-2022, 08:32 AM   #18
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IMO, if both are readily available then pick the one that gives you the warm and fuzzies. I've not ever used a real "high-quality" mortar, but I do know VB works just fine.
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Unread 01-15-2022, 09:14 AM   #19
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I know you mentioned adding a stud where the Kerdi meets the drywall. Sometimes we end up adding two or three on each side. You want to be able to fasten your glass enclosure to a stud, not just into the Kerdiboard. It's very likely the original enclosure was fastened to the tile and mud and no stud. Mud will hold screws and anchors, Kerdiboard may not.
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Unread 01-15-2022, 10:19 AM   #20
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Yes, I went over my layout again yesterday and confirmed that the existing double-studs where the glass attached previously are in the right spot for the new glass.
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Unread 01-15-2022, 11:09 AM   #21
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Hi Snets, Long time.

I think I must have used VersaBond on every Kerdi shower I've ever done. I swear by it.
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Unread 01-15-2022, 10:47 PM   #22
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Versabond it is! Just picked up a bag today. Installed my new shower valve and got the final Kerdi Board up as my drywall guy arrive to rid me of the early 2000's faux finish stucco or plaster look that I was once very proud of.

Kerdi Band seams and fasteners tomorrow is the plan.
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Unread 01-17-2022, 07:00 PM   #23
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Can anyone tell me if I am OK lowering the trap on my shower drain? I want to go around a 1/2" copper pipe with some 45 degree elbows which will require me to add about three inches to the depth.

That would put the bottom of the trap at 20.5" from where the water will enter the drain at the shower floor.

The photo shows where the trap should land to be in the middle of the shower floor.
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Unread 01-18-2022, 09:36 AM   #24
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Shouldn't be an issue, Snets, IF that assemblage of 45's are installed so as not to create a second trap, and they're all installed to maintain the needed 1/4" per running foot of slope.
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Unread 01-18-2022, 09:21 PM   #25
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Thanks, Dan. I believe you are correct. However, I decided to re-route the 1/2" copper. That is something I am very comfortable with, having no technical knowledge about drains, traps and the like other than how to glue black tubes together. It feels safer to me.

So yesterday I patched up all the fasteners and seams in the Kerdi Board with Kerdi Band and VersaBond. Oh my! Looking back to my first Kerdi shower using Custom's unmodified thinset to attach Kerdi membrane to sheetrock as well as band in corners, etc.......Now I know why Versabond was recommended and why Schluter created their board. This shower surround was 1000% easier to complete. Not even close I may not have bitched much about it in my last shower thread but it was WAY more work than this one.

Everything in this shower is flatter, less buildup and way less labor, I would never build a shower wall with membrane again.

Super confident for doing a friend's tub surround in the next few weeks.
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Unread 01-19-2022, 09:48 AM   #26
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Yeah, upon seeing your plumbing dilemma my knee jerk reaction was to move the copper, but I have a tendency to suggest (and execute) options that are more work than is sometimes needed.

Agree, too, with your foam board assessment. Though I've not had the fun that is sheet membrane on walls, I have read enough accounts on here to know I didn't even want to try. I used USG's foam board version for my master bath and it was almost a pleasure to work with, and am using Laticrete's version for the guest bath I'm working on now. Piece-o-cake.
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Unread 01-20-2022, 10:45 PM   #27
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Well, it's done - drain can now be perfectly centered. This was not without angst. This copper plumbing is the lowest point in the house. It took forever to get the water out to be able to sweat the new configuration. But it is done, no leaks.

Is the 2" curb height above drain to the waterproofing or to the finished height? I ask because I'm using a 3/4" piece of man made marble on top of the curb and i want it to be as low as possible.
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Unread 01-21-2022, 10:46 AM   #28
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I'm told the height is technically to the to of the finished curb, Snets, for reasons that made sense to somebody, I suppose.

If you're in a code compliance jurisdiction, I suggest you verify that with your compliance officer.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 01-21-2022, 04:19 PM   #29
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Yea, I'm going to go with 2" to the waterproofing, It is not spelled out in the code, but in the drawings it looks like they are indicating 2" to the waterproofing because there is no tile in the drawing.

My Kerdi drain height will be set at 1"so my curb will only need to be three inches, plus the 3/4" man-made marble - That's not too high.
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Unread 01-21-2022, 10:31 PM   #30
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Floor is all buttoned up, plumb 2" ABS pipe glued in to the trap at the correct length to put the Kerdi drain at 1" minimum above subfloor, per Herr Schluter.

Wall tiles are said to be arriving tomorrow. I'm going to calculate my wall ledger for the wall tiles to include mud receptor, membrane, band and inside corners, and give myself 1/8" extra room. I feel like at the edge of the wall/floor transition, I'd rather have a little extra room than have to cut full tiles. I'm good with making up a little height with thinset mortar at the wall if necessary to achieve a consistent grout (caulk) line.
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