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05-30-2010, 12:37 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 8
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Shower door sizes - opps!
I believe the guy who started our shower job, that we are finishing, should have figured out the design, but of course he didn't!!!! Glitches everywhere!
So what I am looking at now is the shower opening for the door is 29" and I see the measurements on in-stock shower doors are either 26-28 or 30-32!
So looking to install the 26-28 (26 1/8 to 28 1/8). Is there something I can do to make up that 7/8" and make it fit and look GOOD!
The door I am looking at is a Contractor's Wardrobe pivoting shower door #6100.
Any suggestions for me would be appreciated.
Denise
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Denise
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05-30-2010, 12:42 PM
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#2
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Remodeling and Tile Contractor
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Kirkland, WA
Posts: 2,113
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You and your contractor should have had the door picked out and planned for before the tiling began. At a minimum, a print out of the shower door details should have been present (which would give the opening size to leave, etc).
Not saying its your fault or his fault. Just saying that if the door hadn't been chosen and the specs for the door weren't on site, how would either of you know what to build to?
As far as solutions go, you could build the jamb area out with a strip of tile that is double bullnosed or something like that. Even a strip of slab that is beveled on each side.
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Brannigan
Facilities Manager, TPC Snoqualmie Ridge
Reformed Remodeler and C54 Tile Contractor
HeenanGC.com
Last edited by Deckert; 05-30-2010 at 12:48 PM.
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05-30-2010, 12:58 PM
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#3
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Gonzo!
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Colorado
Posts: 2,315
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Put in a frameless door.
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Matt
"Shut it down!"
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05-30-2010, 02:20 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 8
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I will have to check out the frameless doors as an option.
Deckert - "a strip of slab that is beveled on each side" what is that? Are you talking about cement board or something like that?
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Denise
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05-30-2010, 02:23 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: in a closet with a pail of hydroban and a pail of spectraLock waiting to get out.
Posts: 6,788
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you can also add more metal to the track to tack up the gap and go from there............they make track that slides in and locks together
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05-30-2010, 03:10 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 8
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Dan....that is what I was hoping existed.....now just where to find it that matches the door I am looking at as well as the measurements of of those tracks.
Thanks....now at least I know they exist.
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Denise
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05-30-2010, 03:33 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: in a closet with a pail of hydroban and a pail of spectraLock waiting to get out.
Posts: 6,788
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you have to ask the door compnay and they will show you the options but yes it does exist and they are easy to add...you might have to slide them on before you install the trim on the wall...then drill hole thru it and go from there good luck
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05-30-2010, 03:36 PM
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#8
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Moderator -- Mud Man
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Princeton,Tx.- Dallas area
Posts: 33,888
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Denise, check the pivoting door. If it has the pivots top and bottom that requires drilling into the curb, use another door. They make door hinges that mount on the jamb, that's what you want. Never drill into the curb, it goes right thru the membrane and will eventually leak.
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06-02-2010, 10:37 AM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 8
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Thanks Davy.......I didn't think to look for that, and yeah drilling into the curb would not be a good idea the way I see it.
I went back and looked at it and looks like I am good in that, yes? It says:
"The 6100 Framed Pivot Door features continuous Magnetic Jamb Seal and Adjustable Pivot. It is without header or sill and has 2" overall width adjustment"
Now the next stop is to see if they offer the metal track that makes up for the gap as opiethetileman mentioned.
Thank you all for your help. Hitting the home stretch now! Thank goodness!
Denise
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Denise
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06-02-2010, 11:53 AM
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#10
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builder, anti-builder, rebuilder -- Retired Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: oahu
Posts: 13,164
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Can you post a link to your door specs & installation instructions?
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dana
"the road to hell is paved with osb, mastic, pre-mixed latex 'grout' or 'thinset', "
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06-02-2010, 10:37 PM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: New york
Posts: 286
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if your opening is TRULY 29" then I may have a better option for you. Check out Dreamline UNIDOORs. http://www.faucetdirect.com/dreamlin...LAID=465540720
I just bought one for a 33-34 inch opening (anything bigger than 30 inches comes with a 6" stationary panel) and the quality is top notch. The hinges appear to be of CR Laurence quality (what a custom frameless company would use) - and all the seals look like they might be CR LAurence as well.
In your case you would just be getting a 29 inch door ONLY (no panel) - so i think you would need to be pretty darn close to 29" rough opening. I can tell you that the 29" they spec is the rough opening size - they take into account for the hinges and seals.
This may be a much better option for you - since you will get a frameless door for a non custom price.
I would recommend calling Dreamline first though to confirm the EXACT rough opeing size required since it wont be adjustable like the model I got.
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Kyle
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06-03-2010, 07:59 AM
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#12
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Tile nub
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Apple Valley MN
Posts: 113
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I've been driving myself nuts over the same issue of shower door widths. I haven't placed the the last shower wall bottom plate because I'm having a hard time figuring out what my final dimension will be after tiling.
Is there a rule of thumb for this? i.e. tile and thinset add 1/2", 5/8", etc..
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Forrest
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06-03-2010, 08:15 AM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 8
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Here is the link to the door I was looking at, silver with rain glass and in-stock at Home Depot for $140:
http://www.contractorswardrobe.com/p...6100&tab=glass
Thanks for the link......nice, however don't think I can wrap my head or funds around $400 for a shower door at this time. I still have all kinds of things to get to finish up the bathroom. I do like the fact that a frameless door leave the opening to the shower wider though and looks real clean.
Question: I have looked at the frameless and how the heck do they work with that gap between the walls and the door that water don't fly out onto the bathroom floor???
The measurement of the opening is 29" ......
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Denise
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06-03-2010, 08:28 AM
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: New york
Posts: 286
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frameless door hinges get the door within 1/4" - 3/8" of the wall - which is close enough that very little water will leak if the hinges are on the same wall as the showerhead (i.e. spraying away from the hinges). If it is spraying towards the hinge wall there are vlear vinyl sweeps that you can place on the edges of the glass that stop most water. The door I linked to comes with some nice CR Laurence style sweeps.
Sorry - I wasnt aware that $400 was out of budget for you. I can save you some time getting quotes from a glass company though if that is the case - any frameless door company will be $1000+ for the door, hardware, and install.
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Kyle
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06-03-2010, 09:00 AM
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 8
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When I first started shopping for shower doors I was amazed or should I say blown away at the cost of them. The first thing I looked at were the frameless and whoa so that is how some people end up spending like $10,000 for a bathroom remodel was my thought.
This job cost more than it was suppose to with the contractor walking out and him ordering way too many tiles, like 300 - 4x4's (which I will eventually use in my kitchen).
I did buy a shower curtain and I am going to take a shower in that dang thing by MONDAY!
Grouted the floor, edge tiles and curb yesterday, will seal on Saturday. How long do I need to let the sealer cure?
Oh, and have to put the chalking where the floor and the wall tile meet.
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Denise
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