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04-03-2010, 07:45 AM
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#76
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AC Specialist -- Schluterville Graduate
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: La Quinta, CA and Usk, WA
Posts: 10,791
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Phil,
Take a look at the cross-section on the page of the Schluter Dilex instructions. Even if you aren't using Dilex the kerdi banding between the kerdied drywall and the shower receptor isn't a bad idea. The other way is to bring the kerdi 1/2" past the bottom of the drywall and "tuck" it underneath with a margin trowel.
The "old school" or traditional method of installing a tub or shower receptor would have one bringing the CBU inside the tub or receptor flange. I tend to disagree with this method when kerdi is employed but I may be in the minority. If it's O.K. to bring your drywall down to within 1/2" of the floor and then pack a mud bed up to it and kerdi everything then why isn't O.K. to install your drywall below where the base is going to go, kerdi or kerdi-band the lower 5", set your shower receptor and then kerdi band the receptor to the kerdied drywall? Sure you wouldn't have a 2" overlap on the shower receptor but you would have it on the wall where it counts and you wouldn't have an exposed (or potentially exposed) edge of drywall inside the receptor. From the drawing I'm seeing for the Dilex instructions it looks like that's how it's being done.
Brian
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Brian
If that doesn't work, I'll always think it should have.
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04-03-2010, 08:13 AM
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#77
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 105
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Brian: i found a diagram of my situation but i don't know how to attach it. The link is on my desktop.
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Phil
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04-03-2010, 08:16 AM
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#78
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Moderator emeritus
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 95,222
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Stuff is spelt Kerdi, Phil.
Dana is talking about the Schluter installation guide available on their website.
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04-03-2010, 08:30 AM
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#79
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AC Specialist -- Schluterville Graduate
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: La Quinta, CA and Usk, WA
Posts: 10,791
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil
i found a diagram of my situation but i don't know how to attach it. The link is on my desktop.
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If what you are trying to link is a web address, copy the web address and paste it in the reply box you are posting in. If you want to get fancy, you highlight the text you want to contain the link and then click on the blue globe (with the chain link in front of it) in the middle of the tool bar above the dialogue box and click on it. Paste the web address and click O.K. and the link will be imbedded in that word that will appear in the response. There's a bunch of them here in this thread.
Brian
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Brian
If that doesn't work, I'll always think it should have.
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04-03-2010, 08:31 AM
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#80
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 105
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It seems to me that is if you are using the Kerdi base which has no lip.Swanstone has a great diagram.If you can tell me how to Attach it to this post,you can also make suggestions.
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Phil
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04-03-2010, 08:38 AM
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#81
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AC Specialist -- Schluterville Graduate
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: La Quinta, CA and Usk, WA
Posts: 10,791
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See post #79.
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Brian
If that doesn't work, I'll always think it should have.
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04-03-2010, 09:19 AM
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#82
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 105
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Phil
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04-03-2010, 10:37 AM
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#83
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AC Specialist -- Schluterville Graduate
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: La Quinta, CA and Usk, WA
Posts: 10,791
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Phil,
Here's what I would do. Install the Swanstone base as they instruct. Run the kerdi past the bottom edge of the drywall and affix it to both the drywall and the Swanstone base. Install your tile as usual.
What I find most interesting about Swanstone's duagram is that there is no mention of a waterproofing material.
Where their diagram shows the tile adhesive...that's how I'd run the kerdi. Then after it's set up I would install the tile over it.
Brian
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Brian
If that doesn't work, I'll always think it should have.
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04-03-2010, 11:07 AM
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#84
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builder, anti-builder, rebuilder -- Retired Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: oahu
Posts: 13,164
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Check out The Schluter Shower Handbook CX linked to above, page 16.
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dana
"the road to hell is paved with osb, mastic, pre-mixed latex 'grout' or 'thinset', "
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04-03-2010, 04:51 PM
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#85
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 105
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Brian: that is exactly what i was going to do,but i was going to put a Kerty 5" strip over the sheetrock and the pan lip then run the Kerdy as you said over the 5"strip.
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Phil
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04-03-2010, 05:46 PM
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#86
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AC Specialist -- Schluterville Graduate
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: La Quinta, CA and Usk, WA
Posts: 10,791
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Sounds good Phil but like CX says you need to work on your spelling of Kerdi.
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Brian
If that doesn't work, I'll always think it should have.
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04-03-2010, 05:48 PM
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#87
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Pondering retirement daily
Senior Contributor
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Houston Texas
Posts: 28,236
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While I have not met the man, perhaps he types with an accent.
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Paul 1
For when DIY isn't such a good idea...
Houston TX area Kitchen & Bath Remodeling

http://CabotAndRowe.com
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04-03-2010, 05:55 PM
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#88
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AC Specialist -- Schluterville Graduate
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: La Quinta, CA and Usk, WA
Posts: 10,791
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I think Phil's just fooling with us. Paul. One time it's Kerdy and another time it's Kerty...maybe next time it'll be kurdee.
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Brian
If that doesn't work, I'll always think it should have.
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04-03-2010, 07:32 PM
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#89
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 105
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Or maybe i have Dyslexia. Kerdi-Kerdi-Kerdi-Kerdi-Kerdi-Kerdi.
Anyway: Thanks for putting up with me. Oh BTW i am not going away.LOL
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Phil
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04-26-2010, 08:07 AM
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#90
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 105
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noble or kerdi
First i would like to say that i read John Bridges book,And most of it pertains to wood floors with basement access. I have a slab.
Anyway it seems to me that both Kerdi and Noble are just about the same.If so when i finely get started on my shower,which system will be the least expensive?
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Phil
Last edited by davem; 04-26-2010 at 08:45 AM.
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