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Unread 09-29-2007, 08:32 PM   #61
Brian in San Diego
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Donna,

No worries! That's what we're here for...to help each other. I hope everything turns out the way you envision it. We're here if you need us.

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Unread 10-13-2007, 09:22 AM   #62
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What brand/color grout for dark gray limestone?

Hi everyone,
My contractor told me when choosing grout to keep in mind that the color would turn out darker than the sample. I chose Mapei's Sahara Beige unsanded to go with a dark gray limestone. From what I'm now reading the opposite is true. It sounds like the grout will turn lighter. Also, some of you have mentioned Mapei's grout turning yellow. This grout was a custom order but I have no problem losing money and getting a better color match. How dark a grout would be good for this limestone? I would like the grout to basically be the same color or a touch lighter.
What brand grout would you suggest? Also does it turn darker or lighter when dry? Would using distilled water when applying the grout help?
Donna
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Unread 10-13-2007, 09:29 AM   #63
chris b
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I used spectralock pro silver shadow for white subway tile. I used less color than specified for a lighter effect, not very efficient but was determined to get the lighter color.
Where is the tile going? bathroom, kitchen,etc.? Grout line size?
I really cant suggest a specific color since Limestone is not a specific color. Spectralock and others have pretty good color charts. I think Custom has plastic sticks for color matching too.
As far a distilled water for lightening, the pros will chime in for that.
hope this helps...
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Unread 10-13-2007, 09:55 AM   #64
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Chris,
It's called Azul Tulis, a simliar color to Lagos Blue limestone. It's going in the bathroom, shower, floor, and walls. I presealed all 250sqft. myself with Stone Care International sealer. I did get some white haze on the tiles from probably using way too much sealer. I found that rewetting the tiles and using a 600 grit sandpaper to gently polish the white areas works well. Anyway, the grout lines should be very small and the grout is unsanded. The color I chose is a medium gray/beige grout. I was told to wait about 3 days before grouting to let the limestone dry. How long after grouting to seal the grout?
Donna
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Unread 10-13-2007, 10:03 AM   #65
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Wait about another 3 days,or whatever the sealer manuf. suggests.Honestly, no-one will be able to tell you which grout to use, we just can't guess how it will turn out, but in my experience go at least one shade darker than the sample,and you can always mix a bit to make a sample on your job to see.
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Unread 10-13-2007, 10:11 AM   #66
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Smile

Thanks Guys
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Unread 10-13-2007, 10:49 AM   #67
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I've combined you with your previous thread, Donna, so folks can see what you're using the grout on. May influence someone's recommendation on a product.

Just keep all the project questions here so we can see the history when responding.


On the thinset issue, for me it's actually CustomBlend that I wouldn't ever recommend for anything. MasterBlend I used for many years until I recently found it would re-emulsify when soaked in water. The subject was finally acknowledged by Custom just recently, but thus far no response on what might have been wrong nor what may have been done to remedy the situation. Unitl then, I've stopped using or recommending it. Hopefully we'll be able to change that one of these days.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-14-2007, 06:39 AM   #68
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Question

CX,
When I am searching the forum if there is a post that I have already read I will not open it again. If I have a new question about my own project I figured it should have a new subject line. When my bathroom is finally finished I would like to post some pictures on this forum. Is is appropriate to start another thread for my finished pictures?
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Unread 10-14-2007, 06:53 AM   #69
Brian in San Diego
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Donna,

I'll give you my answer and cx can say his peace if I haven't covered everything. The reason for the "one project, one thread" protocol is to keep everything together for those who are trying to help you as well as those who are following along. One of the features of this site is the ability to "subsccribe" to threads. If someone had subscribed to your original thread and you kept starting new threads, if they didn't happen to see that you had done that, then they wouldn't get the whole story to your project. For the people who are helping it keeps everything in one place so we don't have to go searching for all the threads that have information for the project. As far as your finished photos...I think they should be posted with the original thread. You can ask for the title of your thread to be changed at any time. Perhaps when you post pictures you can ask a moderator to say something like "Donna's limestone floor is complete". The reason I like to see the completed photos with the original thread is so a person can read about the process. Maybe to see what they might be getting themselves into or to be able to read the questions a member had about their project. Here's an example of what I'm talking about...Tim's master bath project. Start to finish...the whole story.

Brian
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Unread 10-14-2007, 07:01 AM   #70
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Smile

That makes sense Brian.
When I'm finished, if I can change the title, I'll post my pictures. I owe a lot to you and everyone else on this forum.
Thank You again.
Donna
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Unread 10-20-2007, 05:36 AM   #71
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ceiling

Hi,
My contractor is going to tile the ceiling of the shower. I have 12x12 limestone. He said due to the weight he has to cut the tiles into 6x6's. He is very conservative. Do you put 12x12's on the ceiling and if so, what do you use to hold them up? I don't want a tile to fall on my head while I'm in the bathtub.
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Unread 10-20-2007, 06:59 AM   #72
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cracks

I was just in the bathroom and noticed a few hairline cracks in the concrete. The old tiles above these cracks were also cracked. Do we use the anti-fracture membrane over the cracked areas? Can it be just put over the cracks and not the entire floor?
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Unread 10-20-2007, 08:24 AM   #73
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Lemme see do I understand your contractor's thinking here. You had a 12x12-inch tile that was too heavy so you cut it into four pieces of 6x6 inches each and now you have less weight? Mmmmm.

And each 6x6 tile would have a footprint of 36 square inches, which could be covered with thinset to hold it to the ceiling, so four of those would have a total footprint of, say, 144 square inches, right? But that big ol' 12x12 tile would have a foot print of only 144 square inches and it weighs every bit of four times as much as a 6x6 tile and............. Mmmmmm.

Large format tiles are stuck on ceilings with thinset alla time, Donna. Done correctly there is no danger at all of them ever coming back down absent some catastrophic failure of the ceiling structure.

Some crack isolation membranes can be used band-aid fashion to deal only with a specific crack. Some membranes, which are not specifically crack-isolation products, such as Ditra, are used only over an entire floor installation. The decision would depend upon the overall condition of the floor, the size of the area to be tiled, and the extent of the particular crack.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-20-2007, 09:36 AM   #74
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Quote:
But that big ol' 12x12 tile would have a foot print of only 144 square inches and it weighs every bit of four times as much as a 6x6 tile and............. Mmmmmm.
Not to mention that in both cases, the tile would have exactly the same amount of bonding area.
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Unread 11-07-2007, 06:59 AM   #75
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The tiles are 90% finished and I am very happy so far. If I can figure out how to post pictures I will soon. I followed Jack Hamilton's post on how to get a suction when installing ceiling tiles. I made sure to listen for the hissing sound of the air leaving the tile.

I do have a few basic questions.
1. How long before you can walk on the floor?
2. About how many days before the tiles are dry? I'm in Chicago and it's cool and dry. Do I do the Saran wrap test, where I tape Saran wrap on a section and test for moisture?
3. How long does it take for the grout to dry, 24 hours?
4. I presealed the tiles and they don't need another coat but I need to seal the grout. Should I try and seal the grout only? Should I spray on or apply with a rag?
We used Ditraset and it looked a lot different being spread than the Versabond. It didn't look like he put very much ditraset on the matt.
I'm having trouble choosing a grout. My tiles are a dark taupe/gray and my contractor wants a grout that does not show up lighter than the tiles. He doesn't like the checkerboard look. All of the dark gray grouts I've tried are lighter and he want to use charcoal gray.

Donna
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