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Unread 11-28-2006, 05:22 PM   #16
cx
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Quote:
What is the "official" size of subway tile?
Whose subway? Really, I don't know if there is an official "Subway Tile," but someone else might.
Quote:
Our products are ANSI CERTIFIED
I love it when they say stuff like that.

ANSI doesn't certify anything, Pete. ANSI publishes standards. If they're met, you can say your product meets a particular ANSI standard, having passed the specific testing required. The particular standard is usually spelled out on the packaging, the manufacturer being proud to advertise it.

Bottom line is that you can use most any tile you can find on an interior wall.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 11-28-2006, 05:41 PM   #17
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Well, all the subways I go into look the same, except I don't recall ever seeing one with tile. They all have wallpaper with some type of New York theme. I personally like the 6" BMT, but their meatball sandwich is pretty good too!
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Unread 11-28-2006, 05:45 PM   #18
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Trouble makers!

http://img.timeinc.net/aolhome/i/des...011124_1_l.jpg

http://www.lesperancetileworks.com/m...che-detail.jpg

http://www.vintagebathroom.com/images/subtile%20003.jpg

Grrrr... so there! :P
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Unread 11-30-2006, 08:38 AM   #19
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Should I go with the tile I posted previously, applied to Durock, which thinset would be considered the very best?
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Unread 11-30-2006, 09:44 AM   #20
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Can't nobody pick your tiles for you, Pete. You like'em, you buy'em.

There is no very best thinset. Just buy a good quality thinset that's readily available to you. Most of the CBU manufacturers want you to use a modified thinset on their products, but you don't need any of the "super modified" materials, for sure. If you shop at Homer's, Custom's VersaBond is a good choice. If you shop elsewhere, they will have a similar, lightly modified material.

My opinion; worth price charged.

Go to the UserCP button and find Edit Signature. Pewt you first name in there for us so we don't hafta search for it, wouldja please?
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Unread 11-30-2006, 09:58 AM   #21
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Thanks CX! That's what I'll use. A modified thin-set!...

Next Questions:

QUESTION ONE:

I plan on having a mahagony wood floor (yeah, you read that right and you ain't gonna sell me on Pergo.)... so my question is this:

I would like to do the floor (for obvious reasons) as the VERY last step. So... I'm looking to brainstorm some things.

Should I:

A) Tile the walls to the subfloor and then do the wood floor when ready?

B) Tile the walls 3/4" above the subfloor and slide the floor under the tile when ready?

C) Some other idea.

QUESTION TWO:

Do I use the same modified thin-set for my filling in low-spots, etc.? I plan on doing some perfecting of the Durock before tiling...

Thank you CX and ALL!
I also edited my sig. Hope it took.
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Unread 11-30-2006, 11:33 AM   #22
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Pete,

I would buy the tile that's on sale! or find a girlfriend, sister, mother or a interior decorator and let them make the decision.

Here is how I am approaching the floor. The wall tile stops one tile before the floor. The floor goes down next, as close to the wall as recommended by the manufacturer (or the guys here ). The floor is finshed to your liking and then the last row of tiles goes in cut to fit perfectly. Then caulk or install base board to fit.
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Unread 11-30-2006, 12:37 PM   #23
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IMHO, Pete, since you are tiling the walls but using wood on the floor I'd go right a head and tile right down to the sub floor then install the floor.

Rational is that you will have to install some kind of shoe molding anyway to hide the gap between the tiled walls and the wood floor. You'll just need to be extra careful when fitting the floor - ya need a gap at the walls but not too much of one.

BTW, since you DO have to install somekinda base/shoe molding, have ya given any thought as to how yer gonna attach it to the wall? Ya shouldn't attach it to the wood floor.

Dan
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Unread 11-30-2006, 12:49 PM   #24
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Oh man! You guys are great!!!

I like the idea tiling first, and leaving the last row for after the floor.

But then I thought of another idea to deal with the molding issue.

Why not put a piece of say, 1x4 Mahagony (or something to match the floor at the base of the wall and then tile above that? Does that make sense? So that the bottom row of tiles would rest on that 1x4 (or 1x5, whatever looks the most balanced) and then tile up to the wains. level and end with the final top row of finished tiles?

This last idea allows for a way to deal with the gap between the floor and the wall as well as no mess to deal with. I could also just make it a white piece of that outdoor vinyl wood stuff... I can't think of the name, but you know that "new" stuff that looks like wood but it made of PVC or something so it is ok if it gets wet, etc?? (I liked that idea so much I made it bold. Hehe, just in case it isn't a good idea or something.)

Anyway... I think we're on to something here folks!

Let me know what ya think!

Thanks for all thoughts,

Pete
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Unread 11-30-2006, 12:51 PM   #25
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P.S. Tom, my girlfriend loves that cheap "subway" tile I posted above too. It's cheap, looks time-less and did I mention it's cheap. My main concern is that it is so cheap that folks here might tell me to stay away from it for a reason I don't know. So far, it sounds like a winner. And I can tile the area around the whirlpool for a a total of $40 in materials!!! (plus Durock). )
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Unread 11-30-2006, 01:25 PM   #26
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Pete,

I think you're on your way! Do what you think is best a looks the best, it's your project.

Well, my girlfriend liked the more expensive Argnetinian tile that looks like Travartine. $40 doesn't even buy me one course. Check it out in the thread mentioned above.
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Unread 11-30-2006, 01:38 PM   #27
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I rather like the idea of the 1X mahogany as a baseboard, with the tile on top. Just be certain to leave a gap between the 1X and the tile to allow for the expansion of the 1X.

Dan
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Unread 11-30-2006, 02:04 PM   #28
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IMHO,

The baseboard shld match what's on the wall - not what's on the floor.

I'd leave the 1st course off and do it after the hw's in.

You may not like the look of pergo/laminates ( I don't either ) but at least look at Amtico. It's a linoleum product that is better for wet apps, much cheaper, and looks so much like wood, 90% of your visitors will (I say this from experience) think it's real wood.
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Unread 11-30-2006, 02:43 PM   #29
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Thanks again guys. I'm going to get a piece of white wood, mahog. wood, and some other things and play around with them with the tile. I kinda like the idea of the tile sitting on top of a baseboard, especially if it makes for a neater transition. It isn't like I'll be mopping the floor or anything like that so no reason for the wall tile to come to the floor.

I'll look into that other flooring mentioned, but I'm going to be a VERY tough sell!!

Thanks again,

Pete
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Unread 12-01-2006, 12:51 PM   #30
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You know... I *REALLY* like the idea of keeping my whole project in one thread. This place is amazing!

Ok.

Next question.

One of my Durock boards went in tight (the one on the long side of the tub (between the two shorter ones)... I had to give it a little bang to get it to slide in... looks good, but I've read that for expansion reasons there should be a gap and there isn't a gap. I'd like to know if I'll be in trouble if I leave it or not (I'll be honest, I don't want to unscrew all those screws, etc.)

We're talking about a piece that is 28" high and 60" long.

Thanks,

Pete
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