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Unread 01-07-2022, 07:33 AM   #91
r-mm
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Thanks for the tip. I'm a sucker for US Made tools so I ordered a few Troxell floats to see if those help too. Perhaps I also need to clean up the faces of the tiles immediately after filling the joints instead of moving to another area. I think I am in a 'thinset mindset' where I'm trying to 'cover' area quickly then come back and adjust / perfect it, but I need to complete a small area then move down the line.
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Unread 01-07-2022, 08:17 AM   #92
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Some of us give an extremely light wipe of grout sealer to the tile prior to grouting. It acts like wax to grout and haze. Making it easy to clean up and off tile faces. I've found some tile have a tendency to with old the grout and haze more.

That said, extremely light wipe. The reason is if you let each grout joint grab sealer then you get it inside And on the side of, the tiles. Giving a weak bond of grout to tile in the joints.
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Unread 01-07-2022, 07:08 PM   #93
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You might try pulling a window squeegee across the tiles on a 45. We use to use them when grouting all the time, especially with pavers and Saltillo type tiles.
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Unread 01-08-2022, 07:15 AM   #94
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And you’re right about the temperature messing up the timing of the grout clean-up. The slab is probably 10°F colder than the ambient air temperature. That cool of a temperature is really slowing down the grout firming up in the joints. At a more regular summer temperature, the Permacolor would be firing off at a much faster pace and you’d have to adjust your timing by spreading quite a bit less grout before starting the clean up procedure.

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Unread 01-08-2022, 01:08 PM   #95
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Hey guys

I found that using the upper end of Laticretes grout:water ratio is helping me both apply and clean. I'm hoping to have about all the tiles I've laid grouted this weekend. I'll then need to move my stuff back onto that area in order to proceed.

Which makes me wonder - should I use a haze remover prior? My garage is pretty full of heavy hard to move stuff so this would be the time to clean the floor right before moving things back.

I've read all sorts of guidance on haze removes from home mixed to store bought. Any advice for a final clean?
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Unread 01-09-2022, 09:21 PM   #96
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With haze cleaners being acidic and the fresh grout being susceptible to the acid, most recommend waiting at least a week before using them.

I’d want to get the tile completely clean before moving the garage equipment over it. And if that meant waiting a little bit to use the haze remover, that’s what I’d do.

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Unread 01-10-2022, 11:46 AM   #97
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I like that approach. I rolled one big flat file over to let me get to scraping epoxy under it. I'll hold on more stuff til the coming weekend then give it a more aggressive clean. The local Ace sells this stuff which seems good to me: https://www.custombuildingproducts.c...haze-remover-2
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Unread 01-19-2022, 03:02 PM   #98
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Hi all

Making good progress on the tiling. Ordred the Schluter transition the tile mfgr recommended for the garage door threshold. They do recommend a sealer for these clinkers and suggested "Mineral Seal Oil 260" which I couldn't find with a non industrial retailer. Absent that they said "any mineral oil seal" should work. Do you all have suggestions on this?

btw I found that the two us made Troxell floats I received do in fact make grouting much easier.
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Unread 01-19-2022, 06:18 PM   #99
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Remind me, what kind of tile are you using? A good porcelain is nearly impervious and won't absorb any sealer. I'm not sure a mineral oil based sealer is a good idea, either. Depending on what your long-term goal is, a different type of sealer may be a better choice. Follow the instructions, as if you let a sealer pool on a tile and dry, it can be a major pain to clean off. It may be that the only thing that will absorb anything is the grout, and then, some grouts won't absorb anything, either (like many epoxy grouts and some acrylic based ones), making sealer a total waste.

Note, a sealer won't prevent stains, but, is designed to slow things down to give you a chance to clean things up prior to it becoming permanent.
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Unread 01-19-2022, 08:32 PM   #100
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This is the tile I’m using:

https://www.argelithusa.com/products/red-clinker/
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Unread 01-19-2022, 11:08 PM   #101
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FWIW, the instructions say nothing about using a sealer on the tile and imply that it is quite impervious. Now, the grout, depends on what you use, might benefit. If you're not careful when applying a grout sealant, and let it dry on the tile, it can leave a nasty, hard to remove haze.
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Unread 01-20-2022, 07:40 AM   #102
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Jim everything you say is correct - this tile is very similar to quarry tile and nearly but not technically impervious. The same company sells a fully vitrified tile which they note is truly impervious. I will be parking old cars on the tile and they'll drip fluids which will sit without me knowing it etc etc. I realize the grout (permacolor) is going to be the 'weak link' regardless but I figured I may as well seal the tile as best I can up front to make cleaning as easy as it can be.
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Unread 01-20-2022, 10:08 AM   #103
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Russ, I'll pass on the grout sealing advice I was given by my very first tile contractor when I started building houses. On our first kitchen counter job (yes, tile was very popular for that use back then): "If you wanna seal it, seal it with used cooking oil, 'cause that's what it's gonna look like anyway."

In your case, maybe some motor oil?
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Unread 01-20-2022, 12:20 PM   #104
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One thing to keep in mind is that the strength of any cement based product is based on it curing for 28-days. It achieves a good percentage of its strength in the first few, a lot more by a week, then things tend to slow down. In reality, it can continue to gain strength for decades, but you have to set a useful limit on it somewhere!

I'd avoid anything that created a big point load, like a fully loaded toolchest with small rollers, for at least a week.
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Unread 02-12-2022, 08:52 AM   #105
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Hey all

I've been keeping my head down and making some good progress. I picked up the Reno transition the tile mfgr recommends for the garage threshold. Do these get mechanically fastened to the slab or just thinset in place?

Here's my mockup
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