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11-18-2021, 10:43 AM
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#31
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Santa Clarita, CA
Posts: 64
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CX
I copy that , makes sense. If I use a 3/16” trowel for the thin set and once embed the tile onto the backer board collapsing the ridges I bet it’s more like 1/8” for thinset? So I’m looking at 3/4” to 7/16” for full thickness finished wall. I will build a mock up, I already did that but sounds like I’m figuring too much for the thin set thank you
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Jim
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11-18-2021, 10:46 AM
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#32
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Moderator emeritus
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 95,199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim
So I’m looking at 3/4” to 7/16” for full thickness finished wall.
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Mmmmm, you sure about that range?
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11-18-2021, 10:51 AM
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#33
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Santa Clarita, CA
Posts: 64
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LOL! No I’m not that’s why I’m on here.. help !
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Jim
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11-18-2021, 11:10 AM
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#34
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 128
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12x4 daltile subway tile from Homers? Is abot 1/4 inch but not very flat based on my experience. May need to consider that as well. Actually if it were me, I'd see if there were any machine shops around or online and find out what it'd cost to cut a custom brass nipple. Doubt it's that much. Then I'd get it as close as possible and if the regular nipple didn't work you have a backup. Less stress me thinks.
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Eric
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11-18-2021, 11:15 AM
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#35
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Santa Clarita, CA
Posts: 64
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Thxs Eric. I was thinking that too, get a custom brass nipple made if needed. I should have done better research before going with my fixtures being a DIYer!!!
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Jim
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11-18-2021, 01:35 PM
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#36
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Veteran DIYer- Schluterville Graduate
Senior Contributor
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 14,862
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Depending on the shape of the notches, let's say you're using a square notched trowel, IF you get the desired 100% coverage when setting the tile, a 3/16" notch should end up half of that, or 3/32" when the tile is set perfectly, and, that's if you held the trowel perfectly perpendicular to the surface, and that doesn't happen. Throw in any grid or imperfections on the back of the tile, and it could be thinner in some places, especially if the tile is not perfectly flat with no bow or twists to it. As was said, a small mockup with a tile or two set would give you a much more accurate feel for the ultimate wall thickness once tiled.
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Jim DeBruycker
Not a pro, multiple Schluter Workshops (Schluterville and 2013 and 2014 at Schluter Headquarters), Mapei Training 2014, Laticrete Workshop 2014, Custom Building Products Workshop 2015, and Longtime Forum Participant.
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12-28-2021, 11:16 PM
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#37
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Santa Clarita, CA
Posts: 64
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I have attached a picture of my story pole it is 76 1/2" tall which is the full height of my walls surrounding my bathtub. I am using 4x12 subway tile with 1/16th inch grout lines.
If I start with a FULL TILE on the first row at the tub it will leave me with a 3/8" cut at the ceiling which will not look good. Looking for opinions on my options.
ONE OPTION If I cut the the bottom row tile to 3 1/2" or 3 1/4" it will give me about a 1" cut tile at the ceiling. I am not sure what will be the most aesthetically pleasing, i really want it to look good but a small cut at the ceiling seems unavoidable. Input would be much appreciated.
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Jim
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12-28-2021, 11:47 PM
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#38
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NW Arkansas, Ozark Mountains
Posts: 12,186
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Jim, you would usually cut the first row so that the top row is the same size. If I could keep the bottom row as big as possible and have at least a half tile at the top, I'd be fine with that.
It's one of the pitfalls of the type of tile you're using.
Another option might be to add a decorative band of some size at about eye-level that would eliminate that skinny at the top and still allow for a full tile at the bottom.
But kudos to you for finding that potential problem, rather than setting the last full tile an inch from the ceiling and trying to find a solution for it then.
I haven't read the entire thread, but have you checked to make sure that your bottom row will be level all the way around?
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Kevin
The top ten reasons to procrastinate:
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12-29-2021, 12:35 AM
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#39
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Santa Clarita, CA
Posts: 64
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I am pretty level within 1/8" all the way around.
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Jim
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12-29-2021, 08:07 AM
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#40
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Moderator -- Mud Man
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Princeton,Tx.- Dallas area
Posts: 33,883
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Yep, if the tub is not level, you want the layout to start at the low end of the tub and cut the tiles to fit the rest of the way around.
I usually use plastic wedges instead of spacers. That way you can adjust the tiles every few rows with a level. Tiles are not made exactly the same size. With wedges, it's possible to increase the joint size just a little to eat up that 3/8 joint at the ceiling. Also, check the ceiling to see how level it is.
It's hard to tell but this picture shows joints just under 1/8.
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12-29-2021, 09:25 AM
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#41
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Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fairfax, Va
Posts: 5,064
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Jim, don't forget about the tub "leg". Ideally the first row of tile should be installed so that it rounds over the front of the tub.
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Dan
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If I recall correctly my memory is excellent, but my ability to access it is intermittent.
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02-17-2022, 07:55 PM
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#42
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Santa Clarita, CA
Posts: 64
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Looking for recommendations on what grout to use for the mosaic backsplash on my niche. The grout joints vary in size as you can see by the pictures I attached.
I want a sanded grout. I was looking at LATICRETE PERMACOLOR which I believe is sanded. Does anyone have suggestions on what would be best for the varying grout joints and ease of application? Some people have also said PRISM is good too.
Thanks
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Jim
Last edited by JJG1170; 02-17-2022 at 10:09 PM.
Reason: change pictures
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