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Unread 09-21-2021, 11:33 AM   #16
northdenvertom
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Shiny happy Coppola

Well, I got the plumbing in. Getting a little better with my solder/sweating. No leaks first time. I have the Kohler test plug in the valve body. Tub spout is about 5” above tub lip, shower valve is 18” above tub deck and shower head 79” above floor. I have a temporary stubby plug in place of the tub spout.

Tub drain is working out better than expected. I removed part of the floor to see what’s going on. I would have to remove more flooring and possibly replace the entire tub and toilet p-traps up to the vents. I was able to cut the old p-trap off by cutting left of the joist and fit a coupling through the joist and cement in the new p-trap. Zero room for error here.

The new p-trap is going to fit better since I have more length and custom angle.

The new fixtures along with the tub are all Koehler. Kind of the “theme” with the previous owner. It’s oil rubbed bronze and that’s not “cool” anymore. Everyone going with the nickel, chrome etcs.

If you’re asking, the horizontal blocking right of the fixtures are nailing surfaces for the shower door. I will probably regret that and put a vertical instead.
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Unread 09-23-2021, 02:15 PM   #17
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Bathtub in, plumbing done

The bathtub is installed. This is a major accomplishment for the YAHBRA!

As for the flanges, this is what I decided to do. I notched out the fixture side. I have nice coverage over the lip (see pic). I did this to match the existing wall that includes the toilet. I may have issues with the back of the toilet if I shimmed out. Since I have no end wall yet, I can slide and shimmy the tub in place and get good coverage under the tub with the mortar mix. I will notch out the end wall. The back wall will be shimmed out.

I assembled the tub drain and overflow and wye. I test fitted several times and got all the PVC aligned. I poured 80# of mortar mix on top of a sheet of poly. There was pretty good coverage with an inch in the basin area. I slid and shimmied the tub in place. Leveled everything and dropped in weights to keep in place. Feels solid!

The last step was to cement the bottom of the p-trap up through the ceiling of the wet bar. So I’m thinking “it’s 4AM in the morning, should I do that now or get some sleep first?” I had already test fit it several times and I said “What could go wrong?” so I did and ended up with a cattywampus fit, cemented in place. “It is what it is” I said and I went to bed.

The next morning, as feared, the p-trap leaked. So with some frustration I yanked and twisted on the p-trap and the whole thing came apart giving me p-trap shower. Apparently, I primed and cemented the inside of the male pieces and primed but not cemented the inside of the p-trap! So I cleaned it all up and cemented in place with no leaks! Disaster adverted.

Word of advice – DON’T DO PLUMBING AT 4AM!!.
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Unread 09-24-2021, 10:40 AM   #18
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Good news day

Got some good news.

Got the asbestos test results for the double layer of linoleum and sheet flooring. All negative so I can rip that out. I’m undecided on tile or click-and-lock. It needs to be impervious to water (kiddo proof). Suggestions?

Second piece of good news is that I passed the rough plumbing inspection. The inspector said for the final inspection he is looking for the sealing of all protrusions through the wall and tile. What’s the current CBU method? I was looking at Schluter Kerdi shield. Can that be mixed with CBU?

Thanks in advance!!
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Unread 09-24-2021, 06:37 PM   #19
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First off, realize that neither tile nor cbu are considered waterproofing...they're generally not damaged by being wet. So, if you really want your bathroom floor to be waterPROOF, those two things won't resolve it. On a floor, outside of the shower, you'd want Ditra with the seams (and maybe up the wall (covered with KerdiBand before tiling...won't help a gusher from going out the door, too! If you're REALLY worried about it, you can put a linear drain across the doorway opening, but then you'd probably want a trap primer to keep it full...life isn't easy.
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Unread 09-26-2021, 06:57 PM   #20
northdenvertom
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Thanks Jim. I don’t think I’ll go to that extreme. Just want to have a floor that will hold up to everyday use with an occasional accident

Not a lot progress. I got the rear shims in. I ordered a shower door. I need to ensure that the framing will line up.

I am doing the 24 hour water test and I am having an issue with the Koehler over flow leaking. The inspector said they are “notorious” for leaking. Sure enough this one did.

I used silicone to seal it, but still leaks. Any suggestions?

Stock Delta photo is a preview of the plan!
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Unread 09-27-2021, 09:00 PM   #21
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The Kohler slotted overflow is leaking something bad. I put silicone on the gasket between the tub and the gasket. Is there any tricks to get this leak proof? I'm going to have to remove it and try again. I think maybe more silicone on both sides of the gasket. Can the gasket be removed and re-siliconed? If I can do that, I'm thinking of using clamps to seal the assembly to the tub prior to screwing it on. If I can make it leak proof with out the screws I'd be on the right track. The overflow has been on for a week.

Any help appreciated.

Tom
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Unread 09-27-2021, 09:22 PM   #22
jadnashua
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Personally, I'm not a fan of Kohler. But, it should be able to be made waterproof. Had you considered calling Kohler for help? They built it, they should know how to make it work.
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Unread 09-30-2021, 06:54 AM   #23
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Yours is built differently than mine, Tom, mine has smooth glossy plastic on the back. You might try removing the overflow assembly and sanding down that rough surface with a rigid sanding block.
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Unread 09-30-2021, 07:05 AM   #24
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Kohler clearly has some work to do on their overflows. I've have the same tub as Dan. Basically yours without the apron. Mine isn't smooth and glossy but had some small burs I had to sand off. It still oozes a bit but I haven't siliconed it yet.

I'm betting you won't be able to get that gasket off without having to buy a new one. FWIW it appears from what I have seen over on Terry Love's forum your inspector is right.
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Unread 09-30-2021, 05:13 PM   #25
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Even with the glossy finish on the back of mine, Eric, the drain assembly is a criminally bad design. I mean, that long oblong shape, with only ONE screw at the center bottom to make the gasket seal while there are two at the top. I did expect more from Kohler.
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Unread 09-30-2021, 06:05 PM   #26
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Agreed. Tom, working off what Dan said your idea to clamp if you do a remove and replace might be good if you can clamp both sides at the bottom.
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Unread 10-01-2021, 09:28 PM   #27
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YAHBRA - Slotted Overflow

You're all right, this is a poor design. I will be letting Kohler know of my issues and complaints. I did take it all apart and I was able to save the gasket. Kohler has a union of sorts to remove the assembly. That should have been a clue.

The back of the tub, where the overflow attaches, is rough fiberglass. This is a major design flaw for an interface that needs to be waterproof/leakproof. I did sand down the back of the tub as best I could. If I could do it over, I would have block or power sanded smooth and flat before assembly and installation.

So I siliconed the smooth surface between the overflow and the gasket. I weighted it down and let it cure over night. I trimmed off some of the excess after it cured. I then siliconed the tub and the gasket/overflow asembly and put it in place. I jammed a piece of 2x4 between the wall and the drain pipe pushing the overflow in place (I could not get clamps to work). I then installed the screws, but just beyond tight. The seal should not depend on the clamping action of these screws.

So far so good, several tests today and no leaks.
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Unread 10-01-2021, 10:15 PM   #28
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YAHBRA - CBU and Tile Plan

Now that I have solved ( to the plumbing gods) the overflow issues, I can get back to the actual project. Below is my plan for the CBU and the tile. My tile is 9x18 and I wanted to do a 50/50 pattern, but the math screamed 66/33. Tile layout 36-60-36" on the end wall, back wall, water wall. There will be a 12" liner mosaic row.

I plan to have deep niches, 12x18", 6-8" deep, on the end wall. I might consider some corner shelves on the water wall, but I want the mrs's shampoo bottles and the kids bubbles and body wash "hidden" in the deep niches so my bootiful tile job takes center stage.

What I am struggling with is the niches, the upper niche in particular. My plan is have the lower niche in the field tile. Positioned so I have some leeway in the layout to not have grout lines and niche corners coincide. The upper one will interrupt the liner mosaic row. Should I make the niche 12x12 and let the mosaic fold into the niche? Or pick a different mosaic for the back of he niche? Tile it with the filed tile" It's not going to be seen unless you're in the shower or on the toilet!

Tom
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Unread 10-02-2021, 06:39 AM   #29
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Design is not my strong suit but I would not use a third tile in the back of the niche. I think I would vote for 12 in and run the mosaic through it
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Unread 10-02-2021, 08:06 AM   #30
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I'm with Phil. You could even leave the mosaic at 12" and install a piece of field tile above and below it.

How do you plan to finish the exposed tile edges?
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