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Unread 09-26-2016, 12:54 AM   #16
big_rat
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I should add that this boxed in section is above an exterior wall. One side of the box is over my living room and the other is above my porch. Though I don't see anything attaching these flat 2x4's to the exterior wall or anything like that.
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Unread 09-26-2016, 04:31 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John
2x4s on their backs
So they are running either 41" or 47", and they are flat with the 3 1/2" side facing up?

If that's the case, you'll need to fix that. I wouldn't like it if they were oriented properly, even though they'd probably meet the deflection criteria. But lying flat like that, I wouldn't think they'd hold up.

I'd want a couple of 2x6's to span that box. Can you replace the 2x4's, or at least get a couple of 2x6's in place? I know that might throw off the spacing a bit.
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Unread 09-26-2016, 06:49 AM   #18
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I just checked again and there is not enough room to get 2x4's right side up let alone 2x6's.

Did mortar beds of old have greater tolerance? The old floor held up very well and the floor does not feel weak in this area even when I drop my weight on it.

Edit - Ok so I looked again and think I have a way to improve the situation. There is a load bearing wall right under this area. I can add support to the flat 2x4 from this load bearing wall. There are only 2 of these 2x4s that are holding up a small area of the bathroom subfloor and I can add support to both. It will reduce the unsupported span in half to ~18" on one side of the support and ~24" on the other side of the support for these 2 flat 2x4s. What do you think about that? Considering that the old floor did not crack and the new floor will be significantly beefed up and a second layer of subflooring and these supports, does this seem plausible?
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Last edited by big_rat; 09-26-2016 at 07:36 AM.
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Unread 09-27-2016, 07:47 PM   #19
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bump
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Unread 09-28-2016, 12:26 AM   #20
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I honestly can't answer that question, John. I just know that dimensional lumber on its side is not very strong. I would say that the more of them you have, the less deflection you would have. So your chances of success would be increased if you had more 2x4's in that space instead of just the two.

Would two extra or four extra do the job? I can't say for sure.
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Unread 09-28-2016, 08:41 AM   #21
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Hi Jon,

If you have 2x4s on the flat at 16" o.c. spanning 24" or less (edit: your proposed configuration after adding the extra blocking), here's what the Deflectolator has to say about it:

0) The minimum joist height we can enter is 3.5", so we have to work around that limitation for your 1.5" tall members.

1) First, notice that if you double (or triple) the joist height, and double (or triple) the span, the Deflectolator gives the same result. You can try this yourself, e.g. try 3.5" joist height with a 5' span; then 7" joist height with a 10' span; then 10.5" joist height with a 15' span.

2) So let's triple both the joist height and the span. Use 4.5" for the joist height, 6' for the span, along with the actual values of 16" o.c. and 3.5" for the joist width.

For SYP/Douglas Fir, this gives L/1217. Unknown wood gives L/931, and wood kind of cracky or knotty gives L/716.

BTW, for your current condition, if your 2x4s span 42", then the above method (using 10.5' for span) gives you a deflection of L/278 for SYP/Douglas Fir. So that's too high, but it's not crazy high.

Cheers, Wayne
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Unread 09-28-2016, 09:54 AM   #22
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Hi Wayne,

After I add the supports to the two 2x4s, their span will be cut roughly in half to 18" on one half of the 2x4s and 24" on the other half. Can you tell me how that will affect the L/278 number?
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Unread 09-28-2016, 10:39 AM   #23
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Hi John,

I did already, that was what most of my post was about, a 24" span. So if you reduce the span on the flat 2x4 down to 24", your deflection numbers will be fine.

Cheers, Wayne
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Unread 09-28-2016, 02:11 PM   #24
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Thanks!
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Unread 09-29-2016, 04:33 PM   #25
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I ended up purchasing a soaking tub because it is one of the few choices that fit my small bathroom. The tub does not have a tiling flange. They sell a tiling bead accessory for this scenario:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/KOHLER-18...9-NA/100031822

I am planning to waterproof my shower walls with Redgard on top of cement board with the joints taped and thinsetted.

How do you guys feel about the tiling bead? There are some good reviews and some reviews say its not sticky enough. Is there another solid method of waterproofing the bottom of the shower wall where the tile meets the tub?
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Unread 09-29-2016, 04:47 PM   #26
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I wouldn't be on it.

What we've done in the past is make our own, much wider flange out of a single piece of kerdi band which was kerdi fixed to the tub edge then lapped into the tub before the ceement board went in.

The kerdi band was then lapped up onto the ceement board.

The RG or kerdi fabric overlapped the band

The band / tub joint was kerdi fixed closed again for a more watertight seal .
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Unread 09-29-2016, 04:59 PM   #27
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Do you happen to have any pictures of this process? This is the tub so the rim is not that large
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Unread 09-29-2016, 05:05 PM   #28
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Sorry, no.
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Unread 09-29-2016, 05:27 PM   #29
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Ok so I found this video about how to use kerdi board/band. They specifically mention when there is no tiling flange to use kerdi fix between kerdiboard and the tub:
https://youtu.be/hs9w6VEM_pc?t=6m24s

I am guessing your method is even more solid way to do this. I will try to repeat what I think you said in my own words, please let me know if it sounds right.

1) Install tub.
2) Glue the bottom 5/8" or so of kerdi band with kerdi fix to the tub that the cement board/tile will cover up all the way around the tub.
3) Bend the rest of the kerdi band down, install the cement board above it then bend the kerdi band back up and thinset to the cement board.
4) Kerdi fix the gap between the cement board and the kerdiband.
4) Redgard the whole wall according to redgard instructions.
5) Tile/grout and caulk the joint between the tiles and the tub.

How big should the gap between the cement board and tub be for this to work out?
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Unread 09-30-2016, 02:02 PM   #30
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I removed furring strips from a wall so now there is like a 1"-1.25" gap between the ceiling and the wall. I will push the cement board up there but the gap will only get reduced to 1/2"-.75". Should I rip out that part of the ceiling and replace it or can I fill the gap with joint compound and use paper tape to cover it?
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