durock board at shower curb--where does it end?

[Davy]

Maybe it was mentioned, have you notched the studs to keep the liner folds from bulging out the cement board? It's a good idea to do that if you haven't.

[Davy]

Like this.

[wild cat mccane]

Yep. I do need to take some material off to accommodate the linear. That was a mistake.

Fortunately, all the walls shown were poorly build by me and non structural.

Does the liner also get attached to the blocking?

You know, in all the reading I did, people say use blocking, but I never picked up on the purpose. To support the liner from falling away?

[wild cat mccane]

Thank you for all the help.

As I move to fix my non notched issue, I'm getting close to putting up the Durock.

May I ask, should the Durock be staggered between these three walls? I have 3x5 board and it's so tempting just to wack off a foot on each end and go three horizontal high with no staggering...

Shower is about 40" long 44" deep

[ss3964spd]

I believe Durock only wants to ensure that 4 corners never meet, but it's good practice to stagger them whenever possible.

[wild cat mccane]

How terrible of an idea is it to use drywall shims (those cardboard very thin strips) on the studs all the way until the liner, thus creating a "notch" effect?

Since I already have the studs in the preslope bed, my notching would probably be pretty rough with a reciprocating saw.

[Davy]

I've never used the shims you mentioned. I've heard of others furring out behind the CBU but it may create a problem meeting up even with the sheetrock. I would notch the studs a little.

Looking at your pics, it's hard to tell but you may need to add a few studs. You want something solid to nail to inline with your curb on each side. That's where your CBU and sheetrock will come together and also where you will probably want to hang a shower door. I like putting several studs together there.

[wild cat mccane]

I was too scared to notch the studs with the reciprocating saw with fears of jabbing the liner or somehow jostling the preslope up.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Grip-Rit...SHIM/202090729

I drywall shimmed with three of these per stud on the wall with the liner fold. Started at the top of the liner. One shim on the walls without the folds. Worked like a charm.

Yep, I'll have to add the shims to all studs now for the drywall. A small $9 price to pay for not having notched the studs like I was supposed to from the start.

[wild cat mccane]

Hi there,

All is well with the shower install. Took a break from the project but back at it.

On my Durock walls (which I embedded in the final slope), do I Redgard perfectly to the bottom where the wall meets the floor or is a gap recommended? I have the Oatey liner up the correct height behind the Durock with no membrane.

Just wan to make sure.

Thank you!

[cx]

Ryan, it'll help if you'll keep all your project questions on one thread so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered. A moderator can give it a more generic title any time you'd like to suggest one.

You want to waterproof the walls down to the shower floor. Need not even get close to perfect. Best method is to apply the wall waterproofing before placing the final mud bed in a traditional shower receptor, but that ship has sailed, eh?

My opinion; worth price charged.

[wild cat mccane]

Naturally, I appreciate combining the threads. Thanks!

[wild cat mccane]

Dang it!

Alright, so wicking(?) is what I'd worry about by not adding it all the way down the Durock, past the the final slope? Wicking is the term and idea where water soaks up the material? I realize cbu wicks less than other substances...
Since the liner is about 4 inches above the line of the final slope and where the Regard will end, is wicking going to get me? To avoid the moisture sandwich, I did not apply any moisture barriers, just planning on going with Redgard,


You know what? In all my reading on this forum, I never saw it mentioned in any of the cbu/liquid membrane discussions to pre coat. Notching? yes. Height off the pre slope? yep. Applying membrane before final slope? No... I hope this helps someone else.

Thank you for the continued help in the project!

[cx]

Originally Posted by Ryan

the liner is about 4 inches above the line of the final slope

We'll hope your liner extends at least 3" above the top of your curb, Ryan, and that you have no mechanical fasteners penetrating it below about 2" above the curb which, optimally, would be at least 2" above the shower floor.

The use of a direct bonded waterproofing membrane (your RedGard) for waterproofing shower walls over a traditional mud/liner/mud receptor is a relatively new construction method, the original method being the use of a moisture barrier behind the mud walls and, more recently, behind the CBU walls. There is nothing at all wrong with what you're doing with your shower.

Water wicking up the wallboard is not going to take place to any substantial degree unless there is standing water at the bottom of the wallboard. If you've constructed your receptor properly, that is never going to be the case. Is there likely to be a bit of water getting into the lower portion of your wallboard? Yes, but not enough to constitute a problem. See my warranty information below.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[wild cat mccane]

Yep, misspoke on the 4 inch comment.

The liner is up 8 inches, alternating ss/outdoor coated screws at 7 inches. If anything, possibly too high.

Fantastic...so it seems I haven't caused more than a slight mistake but not a catastrophic future failure.

Thank you.

[wild cat mccane]

Sticking with my project,

I'm about to tile around my 4" ABS toilet pipe. The pipe comes just ever so slightly above level to the slab.

But it's a 4" connector. The ABS flange I bought goes over 4" and is the same size as the pipe sticking out of my slab...

Any recommendations? If a add 4" inside the connector, for the 4" abs flange, I'm going to be too high...