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Unread 03-13-2021, 06:32 AM   #31
xkse
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So I like the idea of bonding directly into the p trap assy instead of using one of the no hub couplings. The three drains I've found so far that accommodate that are the Noble Freestyle ($571 for 32"), the Noble Solutions ($150), and the KBRS linear drain ($123)

The Freestyle has the clamping mechanism which is awesome but also almost 4x the cost.

The Noble Solutions and the KBRS one just have bonding flanges for waterproofing fabrics/liquids.

I wish the Kerdi one, which falls in between, could be bonded without the no hub coupling

Any thoughts?
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Unread 03-14-2021, 10:53 AM   #32
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Linear Drain Sizing

In researching sizing of linear drains, I now see that the drain body is ~2" longer than the sizing (so 32" linear drain, the body is around 34"). In my case, the fiberglass shower I'm ripping out has 36" until the casing of the window in my bathroom.

With a standard 2x4 curb, and assuming I'll need to attach the door to the wall, my overall shower size has to be less than 36". So that puts the internal width of the shower at 32.5" max (36"-3.5" curb = 32.5").

What size drain body should I get? Kerdi has a 28" drain that maxes out at 29 9/16". ACO has the proper size but it looks like it only supports standard clamping drains.

Am I approaching this the right way?
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Unread 03-21-2021, 03:48 PM   #33
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Hi Nick,

Sorry, I didn't see you message sooner. My preference is for the Noble Freestyle linear drain and it's for the reasons that I outlined in the post that you already linked to earlier.

The Noble drain goes in when the studs are still exposed and it butts right up to the framing. So, you are measuring the drain from the framing and not the backer board.

The 32 inch drain would extend 32 inches from the framing. I usually use 2-inch foam for a curb that would butt right up to that making the whole distance 34-inches. Then tile would make it 34.5 inches (+/-)

I'm not sure if that's helpful, or not.
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Unread 03-22-2021, 05:16 PM   #34
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Yeah that definitely helps!
  1. Any preference on where to purchase from? They are pricey. If using a Noble Drain I'll probably go with Valueseal or TS as waterproofing. Thoughts?
  2. Have you seen the Noble Solution drain? It's a new product and only $150 for a 32 inch drain. They only sell it over the phone but they sent me the instructions. Basically the same as one of the KBRS ones.
  3. Everything is opened up now. The wall that abuts the other has some pretty warped studs. Think I should just replace the stud or can I add another one and ignore the warped one? Anyone have experience with removing studs without damaging the drywall in the adjacent room?
  4. The studs on the exterior wall (right side) have a couple of level studs, a few that have to be shimmed but none plumb. What's the best course of action?
  5. Pics attached..going to remove the door on the left side and frame it (used to be a closet in the adjoining bathroom). Also have to relocate the PVC vent pipe on the left

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Unread 03-22-2021, 10:33 PM   #35
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Nick,
I'll give advice on a couple not questions and leave the others to the people more familiar with those products.

3) A few options for the stud, and unless it's in the way of your planned plumbing or some other feature, I'd just leave it be and sister new studs to get them all in plane with each other and plumb. In my current project, I just removed a stud to make room for a new Grohe Rapido SmartBox I installed. What I did was use a multi tool to find and cut the drywall screws the were attaching the opposite side drywall. Once removed, I used some quick set (hot mud) drywall compound and embedded some drywall tape to fix any damage I made. Came out pretty good with minimal to no damage on adjoining finished wall side.

4) if the studs are far out of plumb, just sister new studs. You can also use a hand planner if you need shave a little off of a current stud if that'll fix it. If you're thinking about using drywall shims, I'd not use more than two deep on any stud (use rips of thin plywood instead). In my experience, best to just sister studs to get them in plane and plumb vs shimming. Some people also wet shim (applying mortar to a stud and then setting their choice of wall board against the stud and mortar to make the board plumb). I've not used that method but many do and it's fast.
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Unread 03-23-2021, 04:35 AM   #36
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Thanks Phil. On the studs that you sistered on the adjacent wall, did you drive new screws through the drywall from the adjacent room?
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Unread 03-23-2021, 07:14 AM   #37
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No need to drive screws into the sisters from the finished drywall side, Nick, and if you did you'd then have to patch and repaint. And if you have to patch and paint might as well remove the bad studs altogether and replace it, then patch and repaint.

While you might get away with the multitool idea that Phil suggests, in my experience you might not. If drywall screws were used you'll have a better chance I think, but the original drywall in my house was hung with nails and the multitool just vibrates them too much. There also the possibility that some adhesive was used on the studs when the DW was installed and if that's the case those studs aren't coming out without hurting the DW to at least some extent.

You'll want to leave the exterior wall studs intact since the wall sheathing is nailed to them. To get them out you'd have to cut the sheathing nails. To refasten the sheathing you'd need to remove the exterior cladding. Probably not something you wanna do. You also want to avoid sistering the exterior wall studs if possible, as doing so decreases space for insulation and increases thermal bridging.
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Unread 03-23-2021, 08:51 AM   #38
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Good tips, thanks. I’ll either shim or plane the external wall studs as necessary. Probably replace the severely warped one in the adjacent wall and go from there.

Just need to decide on the linear drain.
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Unread 03-23-2021, 10:48 AM   #39
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I see the warped stud you're talking about (left of broom in first pic). That thing looks very twisted! I think you'll be better served if you just plane it down so it's in plane with the other studs, then just add a new stud next to it that is in plane with the others and plumb. Sistering might be hard with such bad twist on that stud.
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Unread 03-23-2021, 02:30 PM   #40
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Yeah, I can plane it so that it’s basically out of the way and then add in another stud and sister as required.

If anyone has any opinions on questions 1 and 2 I’ll get some materials ordered and hopefully have some questions relating to tiling
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Unread 03-24-2021, 05:56 AM   #41
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Good eye, Phil, I didn't see it.

Nick, that one is so twisted you can't technically sister a stud to it. Best you can do plane off the edges if they are proud of the intended plane and set a new stud next to it.

Can't help with 1 or 2, other than saying that the drain assembly isn't something I'd be looking to save a buck on.
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Unread 03-24-2021, 07:40 AM   #42
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Yeah, makes sense. I’m going to frame a niche through that area anyways so I may end up removing it, we’ll see.

When the top and bottom plate aren’t plumb, should I just plane or shim one of them?

And yeah agreed about the drain.. since it’s my first time I may as well go with the Freestyle clamping one; it’s just odd to me that it’s more expensive direct from Noble vs other online retailers.
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Unread 03-24-2021, 01:51 PM   #43
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Get the studs as plumb as possible, shim/plane the plates as necessary.

From what source you purchase the drain isn't nearly as important as getting the right drain. I always first find what I want, grab the manufactures part number, then dive into google searches to find it at the best price, which I have found is rarely directly from the manufacturer.
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Unread 04-04-2021, 10:50 AM   #44
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So i have all of the waterproofing supplies, have rerouted some plumbing, etc. Trying to figure out how to plumb up and level the exterior wall that will be part of the shower. As you can see it's littered with studs and vent pipes. There really isn't an option to sister studs in there.

Throwing a level on it, it will need to be shimmed out by half an inch on the top to make it plumb (or remove material on the bottom). I'll be building a bench on that wall so I can hide anything on the bottom 2 feet or so.
  1. Furring out will cause a mismatch on the drywall height; does anyone have any thoughts on how to plumb / level this wall? I don't want to replace the drywall on that wall (my wife would not be pleased..)
  2. Plumb first? Or level studs first?
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Unread 04-13-2021, 06:58 PM   #45
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For anyone curious, i ended up just framing out a wall against that wall, as there were too many issues to clean up. Installed the p trap and sloped the plumbing, next stop will be framing the bench (1/4" per ft slope), curb and attaching the freestyle drain to the plumbing. Will update as the project moves forward.

Maybe need to rename the title again as this is turning into my bathroom project thread
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