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Unread 01-03-2021, 10:09 AM   #76
cbaum
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Well demo has started after 3 months of research and I'm about 1/2 through it. Slower than I thought it'd be. I have run into just one "hmmmm" moment so far.

To review, I have a jacuzzi tub surround that I am removing and I am NOT replacing the tub. I need to cap the drain and water lines. At least that was the plan. However, once the tub was out I saw that they shot the cold water line off the tub supply over to the toilet.

Should I just reroute the cold water under the subfloor and pop it out behind the wall and run it to toilet? Or should I just T off the vanity cold water that you see on the left and run it through the studs around the corner to the toilet? Also, should I convert this run to pex? I have no issues soldering and everything else is remaining copper except the vanity faucet which uses pex. There is no other pex and I have no pex tools of any kind. Thanks!
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Unread 01-03-2021, 12:24 PM   #77
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Charlie, that would need to be a decision made by someone on site who could evaluate the choices. I don't even see a photo in your thread of what you're describing as the options. I see a photo of the toilet (I think) with a copper line already connecting it.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 01-03-2021, 12:41 PM   #78
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Shoot I jumped the gun and forgot to attach. Post edited.
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Unread 01-04-2021, 10:34 AM   #79
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Edited pic to show where supply lines come up through the floor.
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Unread 01-04-2021, 10:37 AM   #80
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I'll stick with my first sentence in post #77, Charlie.
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Unread 01-04-2021, 11:34 AM   #81
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did you say you have access from below? you will need to clean up all the plumbing and put the toilet in the wall or stub it up near the toilet and then stub up for the new tub location. you can use the sharkbite caps to temporarily cap off stuff. But I have never used sharkbites. Pex tool does cost maybe 100$ but it is easy to use.
Glad to see you diving in.
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Unread 01-04-2021, 06:34 PM   #82
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No access below except for emergency. Kitchen ceiling is below.

Tub is leaving so I am just capping the drain. Upon further inspection under the subfloor it looks like the tub supplies are teed off the vanity water supply lines. When I get the subfloor up in the next day or two I'll get a better look, but I'll likely cap the hot water at the T and convert the cold water to pex and run it straight over to the toilet.
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Unread 01-07-2021, 07:32 PM   #83
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So I was planning to do a recessed shower pan. There's a great schluter video on this. However after ripping up some subfloor I have engineered I joists. Wondering if anyone has experience with recessing with those types of joists. Thanks!
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Unread 01-07-2021, 08:31 PM   #84
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What style engineered joists, Charlie?
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Unread 01-07-2021, 09:10 PM   #85
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Here's a pic. Hopefully it helps.

Don't ask about the toilet drain. Dropped my cutting bit into the drain and ended up replacing that whole assembly.
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Unread 01-07-2021, 09:54 PM   #86
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That's why God gave us metal coat hangers and magnets, Charlie. She's dropped stuff down them drains, too. Folks who do that sorta thing on a regular basis commonly learn to stuff a rag of some sort down in there before doing such cutting.

You can try what you like making a way to drop your subfloor down between that type of engineered joist, but you're gonna be pretty much on your own in determining whether it worked or not. We've had folks report doing any number of things that they thought was quite handy. Some of them I thought might work, most I was pretty skeptical about.

The one thing you must be very, very careful not to do is in any way cut or damage either top or bottom chord.

That top chord looks wider than 1 1/2 inches. Is that the case?

Some things I've seen tried was to glue and screw some 2x material to the webbing using construction adhesive and decking screws through the webbing into the new 2x with the edge of the 2x right up against the bottom of the top chord. But, depending upon the thickness of your webbing and the width of the chord, I'm thinking that may not provide enough exposed width of your new 2x to provide a suitable bearing and fastening surface for your subfloor. Not to mention the problem of getting the new subflooring thickness to match the thickness of your top chord.

I could likely think of a way to do it that would suit me in my own application, but trying to engineer a fix for you over the Internet may not be a terribly responsible thing to do. You might wanna get hold of the joist manufacturer and tell them what you wanna do and maybe they have a plan for that very thing.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 01-07-2021, 10:07 PM   #87
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In my defense, it was the inside pipe cutter bit for my drill. Guess I wasn't paying close enough attention when tightening the chuck.

Second, I REALLY appreciate the thought out reply. Makes sense. I have other stuff I can do before I tackle the shower pan as I search around for something. I've found a few kits that recess the floor for you, going to give them a call tomorrow.

BTW, the tops of the joists are 2.5" wide but only overhang about 7/8". 2x lumber might work...
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Unread 01-07-2021, 10:33 PM   #88
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I have similar joists. I think mine are 1.9" wide. I pretty much figured I would need a curb. But I would like to minimize it's height. Even if you added 2x to each side and got two layers of plywood to be close to level to tops of beams you would only save 3/4" subfloor height right? Or do you need more than 3/4" of subfloor under the mud bed if you just left original subfloor in place.
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Unread 01-08-2021, 06:14 AM   #89
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I am using a schluter pan for a curbless shower which is 1 1/8" thick. So that 3/4" height savings I get with recessing is crucial to avoid a ton of build up around the rest of the bathroom where I am doing two layers of plywood subfloor, then ditra, then tile.

I did find this Ebbe subfloor lowering kit. https://ebbe-america.com/product/e11...or-recess-kit/

I'm a little skeptical though. Well, maybe more than a little skeptical. I know once the pan and tile are in place there will be little direct pressure on the brackets, but it doesn't give me the warm and fuzzies by any stretch.
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Unread 01-08-2021, 08:20 AM   #90
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That kit looks like a good idea. I wonder what depth those joist hangers are? 3.5" + .75"? Maybe a little less so you can trim the 2x4's
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