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Unread 03-25-2021, 06:26 PM   #151
cbaum
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Any suggestions on solving this? I wet shimmed the kerdi board and now I have up to 1/4 bump of kerdi board against the drywall. I should have wet shimmed the drywall or furred it out I guess but I didn't and it's too late. I had planned on putting kerdi band over the seam and a schluter profile on the far left edge of the kerdi band so the tile would span that joint. I'm not sure how to fill in/build it up.

The bun doesn't run the entire length of the kerdi board. It's only about the middle 30".
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Unread 03-25-2021, 07:51 PM   #152
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If the KerdiBoard is flat and plumb, there's no reason not to remove that little bit of drywall and shim a new piece to match the KerdiBoard.

Or just tape the seam and mud it all flush with drywall mud.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 03-26-2021, 06:16 AM   #153
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If you remove some or all of that width of drywall you're going to end up with butt end seams, and therefore bumps, somewhere, which are going to cause either your profile or window casing to not lay flat.

Tape and mud it. I don't think you need Kerdi band there but since you need to cover the screws/washers might as well use it. After the band is installed I'd probably opt for hot mud for the build up because pre mixed compound is likely going to shrink and crack at that depth. Once most of it is filled you can feather and finish with pre mixed, just try to stay out of the area that the window casing will be.
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Unread 04-20-2021, 02:19 PM   #154
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Can you use kerdi board as a ledger board for tiling a shower wall? I have some leftover with the factory edges in tact so I know they are straight as an arrow. Just not sure if the large format tile would compress the foam or not. I just don't have any lumber currently that is straight.
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Unread 04-20-2021, 02:24 PM   #155
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I think you could get away with that, Charlie. If I were doing it that way I'd set only the first row on your Kerdi board ledger and let them cure over night. Then go up from there.
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Unread 04-20-2021, 03:32 PM   #156
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That's an even better idea. I can do that. Appreciate it.

This project is taking me forever. Mostly due to lack of time. Drywall and painting has taken me 6+ weeks. But I'm laying tile this weekend so at least into another phase of the project. Pretty stoked about that.
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Unread 05-06-2021, 09:07 PM   #157
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May have created a problem and need a little advice. Quick refresh: doing a curbless shower with a schluter pan surrounded by ditra in a plywood subfloor.

I got the shower pan in and used kerdi band against the 2 walls and corner. The problem comes where the ditra meets the pan. I used kerdi band to waterproof the seam where the ditra stops and the pan begins. Not sure if I messed up and used too much thinset but the seam is now a slight hump that I fear might interfere with my large format tiling and create lippage. I did the seam and left it for 3 days and just noticed the hump when dry fitting my shower pan tiles. It's solidly cured at this point. It is causing some tiles to not lay flat. Not sure what my options are here. I'm using LFT on my shower pan doing an envelope cut. I haven't cut the slope lines yet but not sure that will improve much. I also don't think I can solve this with thinset. I know that's not its job. It seems my options are:

1. Tear out seam which will likely ruin the pan, so rip pan/drain out, cut kerdi board and replace bottom 6" or so. Rip some of the ditra out l. Replace pan/drain and ditra and redo the seam and use even more fluid thinset and hope it doesn't create another hump.

2. Switch to mosaic tiles which could hide this better.

3. Cry in the corner

I'm all ears.
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Unread 05-07-2021, 10:46 AM   #158
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Charlie,
Can you put a straight edge on it and take a few pictures of it so we can see what you've got? Put the straight edge parallel and perpendicular to it and snap a few pics.
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Unread 05-07-2021, 11:08 AM   #159
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So I think it's even worse than I suspected. I think I need to tear everything out. Not sure how to ensure I don't do this again though.

Hopefully there's some solution here but I don't think there will be with large format tiles.
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Unread 05-07-2021, 01:52 PM   #160
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Not sure those pics are helping me understand the problem much...the pan is sloped to drain so there is gonna be a gap there. Was the Ditra flush with the pan before you put the Kerdi band on? If you put the straight edge down parallel with and on top of the Kerdi band seems, is it not flat in both directions? If there is excessive mortar on top, maybe try a rub brick to knock it down a bit. You can also use Kerdi or Kerdi band to feather the edge a bit if the surface is flat. This was an option given recently from Schluter support for another member here that had a similar problem not too long ago.
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Unread 06-29-2021, 05:29 PM   #161
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Hey folks been on a little hiatus but getting back to the bathroom after tiling the shower pan.

I have some thinset that has come up higher than the tile and also kept a couple of the tile clips from popping out cleanly. What's the best way to clean this up to prep for grout? Angle grinder?

Also what's the best method for keeping thinset out of the grout line when laying 12x24 (or any I guess) tile? I think most of it came as a result of back buttering the tile. This is the first tile I've ever laid in my life so I'm still working out the kinks, but would like to avoid thinset in the joints, especially around the leveling clips. Thanks!
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Unread 06-29-2021, 06:00 PM   #162
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You can use a hand held grout saw for cutting the thinset down lower. Just be careful not to cut the waterproof layer of your Kerdi or Kerdiboard. Also, be careful and not slide the saw across the face of the tiles. It'll scratch it for sure.
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Unread 06-30-2021, 10:48 AM   #163
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Definitely not the angle grinder, Charlie, if that thing gets away it'll ruin your day.

Use the hand grout saw like Davy said. Yeah, it'll take a little longer but you'll have much more control over it.

Best way I can think of to avoid mortar squeezing up into the joints is to use the smallest notched trowel you can but which still provides the necessary coverage. Apply a thiiiin coat to the pack of the tile with a 4 or 6 inch putty knife, or the smooth side of your trowel, and rake off any access. Comb your thinset mortar onto the substrate. Set the tile. I like to use a triangular "brick" trowel, or even a 4" putty knife, to pull excess mortar away from the edge of the tile. Position your leveling clips, set the next tile.

Don't comb out too much mortar at one time, you don't want it to skin over before you set a tile on it.

You could even comb the mortar onto the back of each tile instead of the substrate, and clean up the edges with a trowel before setting the tile, but that'll take longer.
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Unread 07-02-2021, 07:19 AM   #164
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Putty knife is brilliant. I'll give that a try. Awesome advice. I am even using suction cups to try and keep mud off my fingers as I lay the tile down but it eventually finds its way into the joints anyway.
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Unread 07-02-2021, 10:25 AM   #165
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While working, keep a bucket of water and a big yellow grout sponge handy. Keep things clean, including your hands.
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