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Unread 12-24-2015, 03:07 PM   #16
K_Tile
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Rakes and rollers are good for capping concrete not for leveling.

We also use modified rods as Tom mentioned. We have been doing alot Moisture Control (MC) and SLC lately for warehouse and MRI facilities. Both of which need to have a "dead nuts" slabs. I even think "dead nuts" is in the spec

Ardex K500 is my choice for a wear topping.

We spend alot of time placing leveling pegs before every pour. I prefer to use the insert style over the sticky mount pegs. The insert style can take a beating from the pump hose or bucket trolley but you do need to drill the slab.
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Unread 12-25-2015, 02:57 PM   #17
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Anyone have a review of the Bosch floor laser? Seems like it would be a good tool for this in theory, but not sure I want to spend $500 to find out. But I sure would if I knew it worked.
http://www.jccayer.com/Bosch-GSL-2-G...FY-Cfgod7bYM3Q

Yes... Im saying Id rather spend someone elses money than my own for a review
So... Any reviews?
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Unread 12-25-2015, 03:02 PM   #18
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I find the hardest part with self leveling is that Im not usually pouring some with any steady thickness. It gets harder when feathering it out to nothing. These products "self level" better when they have some thickness.

I usually ballpark it with a trowel and then sweep across with one of my L edges. Whichever is the biggest I can use.

Stop touching it was one of my biggest things to learn. You only have minutes that it flows well, every single time Ive "fixed" a spot later I have made it worse.
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Unread 12-25-2015, 03:16 PM   #19
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T_Hulse

What slc do you use?
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Unread 12-25-2015, 03:51 PM   #20
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This one, John?
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Unread 12-25-2015, 04:31 PM   #21
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Thats the one.
I remember there being a thread, but figured CX might be so busy with christmas not to get me with the search scolding

I'll have a read through it. Thanks Kevin
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Unread 12-25-2015, 04:40 PM   #22
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Kevin, can you post a link or something for those plastic gauges? I don't know that I've ever seen those sold anywhere.

edit: I found the sticky ones from Tom's link previously. 60 cents a piece.

http://seymourmidwest.com/en/46280
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Unread 12-25-2015, 10:53 PM   #23
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That laser looks handy
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Unread 12-26-2015, 07:02 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed
What slc do you use?
I don't use just one kind, I've been trying every different brand I can. I've probably used Ardex's K-15 more than any other over the years. I'm a big fan of the liquid backer board mixes (from multiple brands) that don't require mesh. They work very well for many radiant heat wire jobs over wood framing, without wire reinforcement. I do have products I like in most all of the brands. Mapei's self leveling products have done especially well for me.
Most often it seems like you get what you pay for, mostly. The more expensive brands will usually flow better, feather edge better, give you a longer working time with better strength. I especially love the calcium-aluminate based products, like Novoplan Easy Plus from Mapei, for their flow, strength, stability, & self-curing of excess moisture.
Stay far away from the home center brands of self leveling they sell in the concrete section, not fun.
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Unread 08-16-2016, 05:33 PM   #25
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A big thanks to Tom for the tamping bar tip. Had a buddy make me a 6' one out of 1/2 metal conduit and thanks to it and spending some time setting a 2' grid of grade pins we successfully poured our flattest floor ever. I didn't have a 10' straight edge with me today but checking with my 78" level it was within a 1/16th. I still have a few questions though. On the overworking caution how much is too much? Today my method was I did a fairly careful job of placing and afterwards went over it in both directions with the tamping bar and then left it.
Next question is what kind of mixing setups are yall using for smaller pours like as in up to 20 bags. We mixed in 5 gallon buckets and had a measuring bucket with a 2" hole cut in the side just above the water line of the correct amount for dosing the water. It worked but was really too slow I had to wait on the mixing man more often than not. Id like a few suggestions too on some slower setting slc's. We used laticrete nxt level today all my local tile shops are diehard laticrete guys and with out some severe headache its about impossible to get any other brands.
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Unread 08-23-2016, 11:22 AM   #26
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Now that the olympics are over and there seems to be more traffic on the forum thought I'd bump this thread back up to the top and see if I could get some answers to the questions in the previous post
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Unread 08-23-2016, 12:29 PM   #27
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We don't sell tools so I'm not trying to drive you to a specific brand, but when we do pours here of our products, we use a barrel that holds 2-3 bags at a time. If you're going to be doing a lot of pours, an integrated mixer with a barrel is nice.

An oval, egg-beater style paddle helps keep you from entraining too much air. Use a low RPM mixer for the same reason.
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Unread 08-24-2016, 08:31 PM   #28
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Charles, I haven't used it and have no idea where to buy it, but Ardex has a tool kit for their SLC-

http://www.ardexamericas.com/en-us/P...ile-Tools.aspx

I'd like to buy something like this. We mainly use Laticrete NXT which is the slc sold at our local tile distributor. Or we have access to Custom's at HD.

The Lowes here switched from Mapei to TEC.
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Unread 08-24-2016, 10:34 PM   #29
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My .02

I have same issues as many when pouring a master bath with separate rooms, around corners and toilet flange. Ending up with a couple high spots, a couple low spots. So my plan is usually to plan a supplies trip mid-day so I can pour & tool SLC, then dash out for 3 hours or so depending on mfgr, then get back on it when set up dry and firm. I'll scratch the surface and dig in a sample spot to see if ok to walk on. When it is I'll take various sharp edge box screeds to the floor identifying hi's and lows. When firm to stand on but still scrape-able, I put the edge to the floor and plane off the offending high spots. Got a window of about 1 -1.5 hours between just right and rock hard. Sweep and (Hepa) vac and highs are done.

Then I map out any lows and next day planipatch them. Again using the box screed to plane/finish at the right time she you can shave it off easily.

Sometimes miracles happen and I get glass smooth, but rare due to varying bag mixes. (Btw - I use a dummy-proof water bucket with a hole in the side so all batches have the exact same water. Funny how with some SLC mfgrs you can use same water, same powder, same mixer and get different batch viscosity.)
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