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Unread 09-28-2019, 07:24 AM   #16
cx
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I'd do what Kevin said, John. Using a direct bonded waterproofing membrane as your waterproofing, your stud faces are not in a wet area or even a potentially wet area absent some sort of failure. The cardboard drywall shims would be fine for very minor adjustments there.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 09-28-2019, 07:31 AM   #17
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Thanks...I was concerned about doing sister studs because someone on a different website was saying it is hard to do and can create problems.

But I'll be buying a planer tool anyway because one stud (on a different wall) needs to be shaved down a bit so maybe sistering would be the best solution here? If there are crowns I could plane them down.

I may need to use the cardboard on some of the other walls (not sure yet) so it's good to know that's an option if I need it.
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Unread 09-28-2019, 09:14 AM   #18
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One other thing: my backer board will be 1/8 inch above the top of the flange, and the tile will hang down in front of the flange.

I know that the bottom of the tile pieces should not touch the tub deck; but is it okay for the back side of the tile to come in contact with the flange in the small area where it overlaps the flange? Or does there need to be a gap behind the tile as well? The tub is cast iron but I didn't know if walls flexing over time could affect the tile if it's in slight contact with the flange. Thanks.
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Unread 09-28-2019, 09:23 AM   #19
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John, you must provide a fabric connection between your wallboard and your tub's tiling flange. Using something like RedGard as your waterproofing membrane you'll need some sort of fabric reinforcement to use with it at that junction. Much better would be to use a strip of a sheet-type waterproofing membrane at that junction. You can get 5" strips of USG Durock Shower System membrane from Amazon that would serve well in that application. You can see a good depiction of the method if you'll go to the Schluter Kerdi website and download the Installation Handbook. I think it's on page 34 these days.

I recommend you give the membrane a bit of a wedgie into your tub/wallboard gap to provide movement accommodation.

No reason the back of your tile can't be in light contact with the membrane covering the tub's tiling flange so long as it's not bonded there with thinset mortar.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 09-28-2019, 09:25 AM   #20
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OK thanks cx. So the fabric bonds to the CBU but not to the flange, correct?
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Unread 09-28-2019, 09:27 AM   #21
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Not correct. The fabric wants to bond to the tub flange and the wallboard, each using a different bonding material. Please take a look at that Handbook I mentioned.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 09-28-2019, 02:15 PM   #22
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OK duh, I don't know why I posted that -- that's the whole point, to cover that gap area.

I'll look at that website and the 5 inch sheeting. thanks.
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Unread 09-29-2019, 05:47 AM   #23
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I couldn't find it in the handbook -- maybe I was looking at the wrong handbook? ... but this video seems to show it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...&v=CYf1jHbER4o


I've been looking through other threads here about this same subject...it sounds like it is acceptable to use the Kerdi Band around the gap, with Redgard on the CBU? They have the Band available locally here at Lowe's and it is a bit cheaper than the Durock plastic sheeting.

If it is okay to use Kerdi band in this application, do I have the sequence right:

1) Apply Redgard to entire CBU, including the bottom part where the band will be.

2) blue tape the tub for protection and apply Kerdi Fix to gap

3) unmodified thinset mortar to lower CBU area

4) attach Kerdi Band

thanks
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Unread 09-29-2019, 06:10 AM   #24
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I think I'd be attaching the band to the CBU first, John, letting it dry, then redguarding over that, which will make that band to CBU seam water tight.
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Unread 09-29-2019, 06:58 AM   #25
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I would do like Dan says. But also, I seal the band to the tub flange after the band is up as well. That's my last step, actually.

The reason for that is if you try to spread mortar and put down a bead of sealant, it's likely that one or both will skin over before you get the band up.

After the mortar dries overnight, you can careful lift the bottom half of the band, enough to get a caulk tube nozzle underneath, and put the bead on the flange.

I guess if you did mortar and sealant at the same time, but just went about two feet or so at a time rather than all of it, that might work.
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Unread 09-29-2019, 02:05 PM   #26
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Thanks for the tip about the Kerdi Fix, I never thought about it drying too fast...I'll do that....


Does Redgard bond well to plastic/Kerdi Band type materials?
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Unread 09-30-2019, 07:23 AM   #27
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Since the band itself is waterproof, you're really only relying on the RD to seal the thin, top edge where the band lays on the wall board. You'll also have mortar on at least some of the band, and the band is covered in that furry fleece - I expect the RD will be quite happy to stick to either.

Remember to mix your mortar a bit loose for the band to avoid build up.
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Unread 09-30-2019, 05:50 PM   #28
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OK thanks SS...maybe just put it on that "flap" area, on the Kerdi Band, instead of over the entire band since it's already waterproof as you say...

I want to put the redgard underneath the kerdi band on that area of the CBU since the Band will be punctured in some areas by the Backer screws.
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Unread 09-30-2019, 06:41 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John
...since the Band will be punctured in some areas by the Backer screws.
And just how would that happen, John?
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Unread 09-30-2019, 07:34 PM   #30
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THe waterproofing must go on AFTER you've screwed everything in place. And, you should have taped all seams and installed thinset prior to the waterproofing as well. If you get speed bumps, you might want to use a rubbing block to help keep them flat. The nice thing about using a waterproof sheet membrane is that you do not need to tape prior to application...the membrane itself is the thing that ties the sheets together once it is thinsetted down and cures, saving a step.

RedGard is a good product but applying it properly is a bit more involved than just painting it on. You should get yourself a (they're cheap) wet film thickness gauge to measure how thick you're applying the stuff. It's really easy to get it too thin. Contrary to common thoughts, you don't want it too thick, either nor do you want any runs or pinholes. Extra coats aren't ideal. Make sure the current coat has properly cured prior to applying the next, and religiously follow the instructions about the direction in which it is applied.
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