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Unread 10-28-2016, 06:38 PM   #46
rmckee84
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Just that unfortunately, grind it down. Cup wheels, grinders, dust shrouds, and shop vacs...
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Unread 11-01-2016, 08:15 AM   #47
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Update

Well I pulled up all the tiles last night, about 550 square feet. Strange though - I used a small crowbar and hammer. I am a girl and not very big and strong .... but i could literally pop up the tiles in a heartbeat, UNBROKEN. Some of them I did not even use the hammer. I just put the crowbar under a bit of a lip and levered them up gentle and the whole 24 x 24 tile popped up whole - undamaged. Most though I gave it 2-3 hammers on the end of the crowbar so it tucked under a smidge of the tile then levered it up. In all, about 140 tiles, I broke just one. Is this norma? The underside of the removed tile had just a dusting of thinset. It is laid over dry-pack. Is the moisture from the thinset being sucked into the drypack? Should tiles pop up that easy? They were laid about 2-3 weeks ago so perhaps they had not fully cured? We have hired a company who is using some big machine this morning to grind down the thinset for us so we can start again

The guy who is removing the thinset suggested maybe the thinset was too dry or the tiles had dust on the back?
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Unread 11-01-2016, 08:43 AM   #48
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Yeah, not normal. For whatever the thinset did not adhere to the tile. Could have been dust, could have cured too quickly by having all the moisture sucked out of them, the thinset could have skinned over. Were the tiles back buttered? Whatever happened, good that you were able to save them but I would definitely look into the issue that made them so easy to remove.
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Unread 11-01-2016, 08:52 AM   #49
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If we could see a photo of the back of the tile and the place from which it was removed, Rebecca, we might be able to offer a better guess as to why it wasn't well bonded.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 11-13-2016, 06:54 PM   #50
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Is there a product that will fill a Void/Chip on a high gloss polished porcelain

Just a quick question to see if there is anything that would fill the void when a glossy polished porcelain has a small chip in the top gloss? I was thinking clear nailpolish? Does anyone know of something - Is there a good clear epoxy that works and does the job of really just filling the void?
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Unread 11-13-2016, 07:11 PM   #51
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I don't think your issue is filling the void so much as it is to get something of about the same luster that is polished to the same flatness as the tile. Seems to me that anything you fill it with is going to stand out like a sore thumb if it's not honed to the be flat with the tile.
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Unread 11-13-2016, 07:13 PM   #52
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Granite & natural stone countertop fabricators are adept at using knife grade epoxy with colorant to repair natural fissures and fix damage. But it may not be glossy enough to look good.

Is the damage similar to what happened to your former tiles that were chipped by the installer? Have you experimented with the nail polish and some old tile, yet?

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Unread 11-13-2016, 08:10 PM   #53
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We ended up ditching the brown tile that was being problematic and went with a much more expensive Italian porcelain being installed next Monday. The original awesome brown, damaged by the first guy and a defective second batch (at some point in the finishing process) we just gave up on that one and sucked up a huge loss, third time is not worth seeing if it was a charm!! The matching beige though we have kept down, 'cause it is AWESOME and there are a few little chips here and there from the first installer Also a few chips on my 48" waterjet cut medallion because people just had to keep walking on it before it was grouted. I was just seeing if there was a quickie fix for those small little nicks on the glazing. You would think with so many polished porcelains that someone would come up with something. I will have to try nail polish on an off cut and see what happens. I used matching nailpolish on the backside of my glass tile where a bit of the white backing chipped off when being cut - looked awesome - easy fix - was hoping for the same with the porcelain top as I am sure once we move back in one of my hooligans is going to drop a can of soup on it

As a side note any luck using Mapai Grout Colorant? In the long term does it look awful? Went with Chocolate, real installers (not DIY'ing it) - of course it turned very light - Tedious job I am sure but does it work and last. What are any downfalls to it?
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Unread 09-29-2019, 12:44 PM   #54
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Cracked Drypack = Cracked Tiles .... PLEASE advise how to fix - Newbie with a Hammer

About 2.5 years ago we had the whole house drypacked and tiles with 24 x 24 rectified porcelain tiles. NOT laid by us but by professionals who did a beautiful job Around a pillar in the kitchen 2 tiles cracked. May have had a weak spot on the tiles as the cracks also appeared to have originated from where they were cut to go around the pillar/opening to basement stairs. Outside of these no other tiles have cracked. It may have been that the pillar settled? House was completely gutted and renovated 3 years ago.

I have carefully hammered both tiles out over the last few days but I see the cracks went through the drypack. I am not at all sure what to do at this point.

I am going to have the new tiles cut with a water jet, not only so that hopefully there is no weak spot from where the 2 cuts meet, but also I have no other way of cutting them!

There are heating cables buried under the drypack.

Do I remove the drypack that has cracked?

Is there a barrier that I should use that will flex so it does not happen again?

Do I use some sort of epoxy or cement type material that will soak into the crack and secure it? Or can I just use morter back overtop of the cracked drypack and it should be good?

Also … Do I need to remove ALL the morter? - I have most of it removed as you can see in the photos but in some areas there is still a thin amount - it really just pulls up the top layer of the drypack. Does morter stick to morter?

Is one type of morter better than another?

I guess I just need to know what do I do now? I am not a construction person - just a girl trying to fix her cracked floor!

I appreciate any help you can offer.
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Unread 09-29-2019, 01:55 PM   #55
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Welcome back, Rebecca.

I've combined you with your previous thread on this project because the saga of this floor was so long and painful it shouldn't be lost to the current discussion.

I see no place where the floor under this drypack was evaluated for suitability for a ceramic tile installation.

Can you tell us what's under the dry-pack?

Is there any failure of the radiant heating system in that floor at this point?
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Unread 09-30-2019, 07:25 AM   #56
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You are right - it was a terrible nightmare just getting the floor to be so beautiful - it was laid 3 times and had to have 2 different professionals as the first one walked off the job ashamed - but the end result is fantastic.

It was all new construction and all I know is that there is a concrete shoot that was built below the pillar that goes from the main floor down to the basement filled with concrete. The pillar sits on this concrete shoot/pad. The metal pillar holds up an LVL beam from the ceiling line. There is plywood underneath the tiles, some sort of blue mesh that was put under the WarmUp Heating cables and then drypack.

I always assumed it cracked because of the pillar shifting. However I noticed the cracks after we had a rather heavy friend and his wife came over for a visit. We all went upstairs at the same time - so 400+180+130+110 = 820 pounds going up the glass, quartz and metal staircase ... maybe the weight of all of us + weight of the staircase caused the crack?

So hoping that is what it was how do I fix the drypack to replace the tiles so it is secure once again?
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