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Unread 11-03-2010, 05:55 PM   #1
Tradesman2010
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Shower listello depth versus wall tile

Can someone offer suggestions about how best to install 3-inch strips of listello tile which are thinner than the shower field tile?

The listello sits back approx. 1/8"-3/16" from the field tile, and I'm wondering if it is customary to leave it like this, or if I should set it in a thicker bed of thinset (or something) so it sits flush. And if so, what is the best approach, because it can get messy with squeeze out.

Many thanks for any help offered.
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Unread 11-03-2010, 06:01 PM   #2
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Andrew,

Welcome to the forum.

You'll find it easier to install the upper and lower field tiles first, using some wood blocking or strip lumber as a filler for the height of the inset plus the upper and lower grout lines. Like in the pic below.

Once the field tiles are set, you can make a screed (lower pic) to adjust the depth of the thinset to precisely where you need it to accommodate your inset
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Unread 11-03-2010, 06:42 PM   #3
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Hi Andrew, welcome! You can also set up to the listello and float it flush with the row below it let it dry then continue.
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Unread 11-03-2010, 07:33 PM   #4
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Outstanding!!! Many thanks to both of your for the advice. I went in immediately and ripped out the few pieces of listello I had already installed. Fortunately, they hadn't completely set up.

Either solution will work, but I'll opt for the screed method. Floating the listello is a viable option, but perhaps for someone with more experience. I fear it would be a messy proposition. I can see the thinset squeezing out of that mesh already.

Since you guys nailed that one, let me try another:

I encountered a problem with my layout using the listello. My field tiles and my bullnose tiles are 12 inches, so from the floor up to the height of the listello, I have lined up my grout lines. However, when I install the listello border, it throws off the layout. So the next full row of field tiles is 3 inches higher than it would have been, so from there on up to the ceiling, the grout lines are off by that much.

Is there an elegant solution to this problem? Perhaps:

1) Leave the layout as is, and the shower door will hide it?
2) Cut a three-inch piece of bullnose where the listello is?
3) Cut down the wall tile above the listello by three inches?

I know you guys will get this one. I'm eagerly awaiting your reply.
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Unread 11-03-2010, 07:38 PM   #5
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I prefer either #2 or #3, but #2 is my favorite as 3 will yield a sharp tile edge at the listillo, instead of a factory edge. Since that line is longer and more visable, a small piece of bullnose matching the height of the listillo is more cosmetically pleasing.
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Unread 11-03-2010, 07:52 PM   #6
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Andrew,

You could also offset the bullnose so none a the joints line up.

This is more common than not specially with people putting listellos and feature bands in they're showers, not the kind that sing either.

I have done what Paul is talking about but I didn't actually use a piece of bullnosing, I carried the listello out to the end and made my own bullnose piece with the listello. It ain't easy though, but it looks really sweet when it is done right. I will look for a pic
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Unread 01-05-2011, 08:39 PM   #7
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Shower pan preslope question

I've just completed the demo on a leaking/faulty shower pan, and was blown away with the problems I discovered. Among other things, there was there no preslope, and the shower drain was on a crown in the slab (guess someone figured water would travel uphill). I was unable to remove the clamping ring (rusted bolts), so I'll need to cut the slab around the drain and replace it. This got me thinking ...

One challenge I've found with building the preslope is where I have to feather it in to the drain. It becomes very shallow and can be difficult to work with. Is it advisable to set the new drain 1/4" or so above the slab - essentially on a crown - so when I build the preslope it will allow for a much thicker bed of deck mud right around the flange, making that transition simpler?

I hope I've explained it adequately. And advice is appreciated.
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Unread 01-05-2011, 09:17 PM   #8
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I'm building my first preslope tomorrow. I was wondering the exact same thing!
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Unread 01-05-2011, 10:28 PM   #9
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Andrew,

Yes. Set the new drain assembly high enough so that your thinnest mud layer is no thinner than 3/4" at any point. I prefer one inch, more is better. The upper mud deck above the liner is 2 inches or so, as an even depth since the pre-slope will be below the liner.
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Unread 01-06-2011, 12:01 AM   #10
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Outstanding!!!!!! Thank you, Paul, for confirming that for me. This'll make life so much easier.

Further, do you advise the use of any additives (latex) with your preslope deck mud mixture? I've heard it both ways.

Thx
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Unread 01-06-2011, 05:35 AM   #11
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No additives in the deck mud. They make the mud very sticky and hard to work. You will be bonding yours to the slab, to there is no benefit gained from adding the admix.

I'm not sure if Paul missed that you are building on a slab. You can go much thinner with the deck mud if it is bonded to the slab with thinset. You can also finish the thinnest parts with thinset if the deck mud crumbles.
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Unread 01-06-2011, 07:18 AM   #12
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Bob,

The reason I said the 3/4" is due to the giant hole he'll be making in the slab to get to the plumbing. Now I know that hole gets filled in, I just like the added insurance. And there's room anyway.....

Just sayin...
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Unread 01-06-2011, 07:19 AM   #13
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Oh.
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Unread 01-06-2011, 01:21 PM   #14
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When building out the preslope, do you fill in the hole in the slab all the way to the riser where your drain is attached? I guess that stuff just gets broken out if the shower need to be redone in the future or the plumbing needs to be accessed?
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Unread 01-06-2011, 01:25 PM   #15
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Yes. You can use concrete, but if the hole is small enough, and you can get in there to pack it well, you can use the same deck mud you are using for the preslope.

Don't worry about the next guy. You want your shower to not need rebuilding.
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