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Unread 07-26-2020, 05:05 PM   #46
jadnashua
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With a tub surround, IMHO, I think using KerdiBoard may be one of the easiest choices. The stuff is easy to cut, easy to carry home, and goes up quickly. You'll need some Kerdiband, their special screws and washers, and probably a tube of KerdiFix to bond the Kerdiband to the tub and make the seal there.

You can apply the banding and start tiling. IF you go that route you can avoid any speed bumps. You need to band over any screws and seams and to the tub surface. Watch some of their videos...it all goes pretty quickly.
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Unread 08-17-2020, 01:44 PM   #47
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Thanks for the advice everybody

A decade after my shower project, it still makes me nervous that I may have to tear some of that work out if I ever have a plumbing problem.
So, this time around, I'm thinking I may try to do things with an eye toward maintaining access to the plumbing.
I see that there are some different access panels that can be done, and I'm most interested in what's possible around the mixing valve and then also around the tub flange.
Has anyone figured out how to make an easily removable row of tile over a tub flange that's still water tight?
Obviously, there would be no grout in that flange row but rather caulk colored to match the grout. But I wonder how you would handle a membrane in a situation like that? Seems like you'd have to cut it, and then that would defeat the whole purpose in the most critical location.
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Unread 08-17-2020, 02:19 PM   #48
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The only reasonable access to the mixing valve would be from the opposite side of the wall behind the valve, Paul. Feasibility would depend upon what's on the other side of the shower wall.

'Fraid I can't see any reason at all to want to remove the bottom row of tiles in a tub-shower application.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 08-19-2020, 12:15 PM   #49
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Well, let's say the tub has a problem three or four or five years in. Let's say a support cracks underneath or there is a problem with the drain.
Wouldn't it be nice to be able to swap in a fresh tub without disturbing your tile?
Maybe there's a way to split backing board to create a membrane joint. Maybe hold it down with magnets? Then you could leave a bit wider grout joint at the top of the first course, and fill it with caulk instead of grout. Course, the idea that you're going to be able to avoid busting those flaps off the wall when you remove a tub is laughable.
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Unread 08-19-2020, 12:26 PM   #50
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It's almost impossible to insert a new tub, or get the old one out, after it is installed and tile applied to the walls. To keep things watertite, the tub will have a tiling flange that sits underneath the bottom row of tile. A problem with the tub generally means a full tearout. You MIGHT get by with removing the bottom row of tile, but that's not a guarantee. Often, you will need to also remove the toilet and maybe the vanity to have enough room to slide a new tub in as well...in new construction, the tub is often installed way before all of the walls are finished. Remodeling is a little tougher.
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Unread 04-02-2021, 11:48 AM   #51
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Redgard

Finally getting to this project. Did the demo this week.
I think I'm going to try Redgard on the walls. I just don't feel like there is nearly the water penetration concern with the walls as there is with the pan, and since we've got a tub serving that function, a liquid membrane seems like it should be more than adequate if applied to spec.

My question: What's the preferred substrate for Redgard? Durock? Hardiebacker? Densshield? Permabase?

I've never worked with any of them. My first shower, I just did Kerdi over drywall.
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Unread 04-02-2021, 12:22 PM   #52
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Denshield already has a moisture barrier on it, so don't want or need to add a second one. The core of DS is gypsum (not unlike drywall) however, so its edges could be susceptible to moisture.

Durock and Permabase are cement boards. Hardie is a cement fiber board. All would be suitable for use with RG. If cost is a factor Durock and Permabase probably win.
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Unread 05-17-2021, 03:36 PM   #53
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In-shower hooks?

Arrrr maties,
Me lassies sez they wants hooks for to hang their loofahs and puffs and other such fancy shower items.
I was thinking some steel hooks that I could insert into the framing would make me old captain proud.
But, googling around, I can't seem to find much. There are some "robe hooks" available, but they don't seem to stand off from the wall nearly far enough.
I would like to get them far enough from the wall that they drip into the tub rather than down the wall.
I guess I want to make em feel like they're walking the plank.
Any thoughts?
I feel like I should probably put them near the valve so that they don't end up grabbing anybody by the side or poking them in the back. Maybe put em up high so that there is no chance of anybody falling and catching one. could be dangerous, I suppose. Even better, maybe a metal "hand of god" that I could mount to the ceiling ...
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Unread 05-17-2021, 05:10 PM   #54
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Are the walls tiled yet? Schluter makes some tile-in small shelves https://www.schluter.com/schluter-us...E?facets=false
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Unread 05-17-2021, 05:14 PM   #55
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no. But I don't think shelves would work. Would have big time soap scum buildup.
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Unread 05-17-2021, 06:32 PM   #56
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I used a little "hook" in a recent shower build for hanging a poof. Shown in this post - https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin...9&postcount=29
Made by TileWare Products, not actually a hook and quite small but it works great. It installs with a flange behind the tile just like a Schluter profile. As you note it doesn't stick out far so the dripping would be down the wall - tell the lassies to rinse the poofs off when they're done

I also used a pair of Schluter shelves in that shower, also shown in that post.
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Unread 05-20-2021, 08:03 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Paul
Would have big time soap scum buildup
When my new shower, that I labored on for a shockingly long time, was commissioned about 1.5 years ago this captain advised the crew that bar soap was not to be brought aboard. Ever.

Soap scum eliminated.
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Unread 06-16-2021, 10:32 AM   #58
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Taping joints

Hello.
I searched around but didn't find an answer to this question.
I'm putting RedGard over Hardiebacker and the product instructions say to thinset and mesh tape all seams and corners. But Custom's installation vid for RedGard says you should embed the tape in the wet RedGard.
I don't see that mentioned in the RedGard TDS.
I feel like the mesh should go in directly over the thinset. There seems to be a fair number of web posts that reference that pattern.
But I wonder what the tile gods would say?
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Unread 06-16-2021, 11:44 AM   #59
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Paul, Hardiebacker and RedGard are separate products and have separate installation instructions and the instructions for each need to be followed. One must be completed before the other is started.

The Hardiebacker has the seams filled with thinset mortar and has mesh tape embedded in an effort to make a monolithic installation. The RedGard is a waterproofing membrane that goes over a finished CBU installation and any fabric or mesh tape is intended to strengthen the membrane in critical areas. The waterproofing membrane manufacturers usually make the use of mesh tape optional.

If you were to use a sheet-type waterproofing membrane the situation changes a bit. The CBU joints are filled when the membrane, which is far stronger than the mesh tape, is installed using thinset mortar and satisfies both installation requirements.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 06-16-2021, 12:02 PM   #60
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Thank you for your response.
I just feel like two layers of mesh tape is overkill and may result in buildup in corners that could be a problem.
I don't see mesh tape mentioned in RedGard's TDS, but it's in their video. I'm thinking I'll just do the mesh in the joint thinset but not again with the RedGard.
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