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Unread 02-16-2011, 09:36 PM   #1
btw574
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Master Bath

I am starting the tiling job of our mater bath. I will be first tiling the bathroom floor with 18X18 tiles. I am looking to use some type of membrane on he floor
instead of 1/4 backer board seeing the master bedroom has carpet and I would like to keep the transition as low as possible. While looking for tile I saw a tile membrane from Durarock that you use their adhesive to hold it down. Does anyone have any experience with this. It looks like a new product and I am not a big fan of trying new products and hoping it works as described over the long run. Is there another product I could use.
The floor is 3/4 OSB on 14" I Joist 12" on center.
I also have a 48"X60" walk in shower to do. I will be using 1/2 cement backer board. I will be using one of the foam shower pans. I was looking at using a liquid membrane and was looking at either Hydroban or Mapelastic HPG.
I was going to use fabric at the corners and joints.
I saw in he Frankenshower post a picture of inside corner pieces from Laticrete but could not find them on there web sight.
I also saw on Mapie web sight that they offer inside and outside corners for thier Mapeband but these are only available in Canada.
I have seen both Schluter and Noble make these. Could I use these or is it not recommened. I would like to avoid build up in the corners
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Unread 02-16-2011, 09:56 PM   #2
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You can use Ditra on the floor, but I believe it is about the same thickness as 1/4" CBU. Not familiar with the product from Durock you are referring to.

You do not need to use fabric in the corners with Hydroban.

As far as your floor support you would have to do further checking with the I-joist manufacturer to confirm your deflection.
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Unread 02-16-2011, 10:00 PM   #3
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USG states 14x14 is the max tile size for the Durock membrane. Ditra has a very low profile and would make a good option.

I have always used Hydroban, but both waterproofing membranes will work. You will be able to make your own corners with the mesh tape. You could use a noble corner, but it would be overkill.

***********EDIT************

I spoke too soon. I just skimmed the text. Here is what it says in full:

ANSI A137.1, Maximum tile size – 14” X 14”, minimum tile size – 2” x 2” over DTM on concrete/gypsum decks and bonded Optional Board Underlayments or 6” x 6” over DTM on wood subfloors and unbonded FIBEROCK Brand underlayment.
a. For tile 8” x 8” and larger – Install per 2005 Handbook for Ceramic Tile Installation published by the Tile Council of North America Inc. Method is addressed in section titled: Bonding Large-Format Tile for Coverage and Support (page 12 of 2005 Edition).


Also, it says you need to give it 24 hours before setting tile over it if your use a modified thin-set.
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Unread 02-17-2011, 07:58 AM   #4
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I would use Custom Easymat. Nothing easier, more cost effective or better, imo. Do not use self stick Easymat, though.

http://www.custombuildingproducts.co...s/easymat.aspx
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Unread 02-19-2011, 10:58 PM   #5
btw574
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Kerdi membrane install question

I have question about installing these membranes. Instead of using Kerdi band could you wrap the inside or outside corners.
While looking at pictures in post everyone butts up to the corner and then add a band at the corner seams or floor seams.
Is the membrane to stiff to form a corner and this is why the Kerdi ban is thinner.
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Unread 02-19-2011, 11:09 PM   #6
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Welcome, Brian.

You can use the Kerdi everywhere in your shower if you want. The Kerdi Band is half as thick and a lot easier to use some places and it makes less build-up at seams.

Outside corners are a lot easier to cover if you round them off a little- or a lot - before installing your Kerdi or Kerdi Band.

I use a lot of Kerdi Band when doing a Kerdi shower, and I really like the pre-made corners, too.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 02-20-2011, 04:39 PM   #7
btw574
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RPM Matts and FlexSnap

I did a search on these two and did not find much.
As stated in another post I am starting my Master bath and we have decided we would like some kind of infloor heat seeing we are in wisconsin and the tile in the mudroom and powder room can be a bit cold in the winter.
Both of these systems seem to be pretty DIY friendly but on the web sight for RPM I could not find any type of info on warranty or independant testing.
Flextherm does have ratings for their Flexsnap system.
It seems that the flex system you can lay down the panels and tile the same day but would you put down an membrane first for antifracture and uncoupling.
Any input on these 2 systems
It would be nice if Schluter had someting as they seem to test their product when looking at there web sight and info
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Unread 02-20-2011, 05:16 PM   #8
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Brian, it'll help if you'll keep all your project questions on one thread so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered.

It'll help some more if you'll provide a link to the particular "flexsnap" system you have in mind.

RPM is a new advertiser for us and you'll find their link at the bottom of this page. I know they have installation instructions in pdf on their website.

Can't say much about the combination of the two without knowing for sure what the other system is.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 02-20-2011, 05:57 PM   #9
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Just saw the system the other day. interesting......i think the profiles a little thick for your install.

http://www.flextherm.com/en/products...#specification
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Unread 02-20-2011, 07:52 PM   #10
btw574
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The wife has decided that she could live with a little bit of hight distance between the carpet and tile for now. She is talking about replacing the carpet in the bedroom next year and at that time I could put some plywood down to bring the new carpet up for a better transistion.
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Unread 02-20-2011, 07:58 PM   #11
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Brian,

You can raise the carpet today www.carpetshims.com * Pull back the carpet, install the shims, replace the carpeting.



* I am sooooooo not a paid endorser
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Unread 02-20-2011, 09:07 PM   #12
btw574
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It is a Flextherm product
http://www.flextherm.com/en/products/flexsnap

I looked at the carpet shims but am not fond of them. There is one under the carpet were it meets the hardwood floor in the hall
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Unread 02-20-2011, 09:21 PM   #13
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OK, I thought you were looking at something to use with the RPM system rather than in lieu of it.

Can't help. Don't know a thing about that FLEXsnap thingee.
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Unread 02-21-2011, 05:54 PM   #14
btw574
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Hydroban over Redguard

I have a question for a friend who is general contracting is new house build.
The tile guy he hired for doing the tiling has pretty much disappeared and cannot be found. The cell phone number he had has been disconnected.
The good thing is the job was not paid in full as it was set up with 3 draws as work was being completed and only one draw was done.
He had a new guy come in and told him he would have to tear out the current backer board as the old guy used redguard and did not have it thick enough before he bailed on the job and he only uses Hydroban.
The other problem is there is Redguard on the mud pan with a mesh fabric and the joints between the pan and backer is also done. He said it looks like all that the previous installer got done one one light coat on everything.
Does he need to have this all torn out or can you use Hydroban over the Redguard
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Unread 02-21-2011, 06:05 PM   #15
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I'd use more Redgard, it's a good product, but he can't give you a warranty on the showerpan itself because he didn't install it and if it was installed wrong and links then you'd want him to fix it, so it would be best to let him do it the way he wants so you get the full warranty...
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