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Unread 05-18-2019, 05:57 PM   #16
Davy
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Durock and Wonderboard among a few others are true cement boards. Those you can embed into the floor deck mud, which you'll want to do. You can't do that with Hardi.

I can't tell how thick the fiberglass is against the studs but to keep the CBU from flaring out at the bottom, you may want to fur out the studs a little above the fiberglass.
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Unread 05-18-2019, 06:51 PM   #17
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Hardibacker has a few shortcomings, in my opinion. Besides the thickness issue that CX mentioned, it can't be buried in the mud bed, and worst of all, it's a very dry material that draws the moisture out of everything very quickly.

Heck, I bet you could leave a sheet of it sitting in your bathroom in lieu of an exhaust fan.

Look for Durock, Permabase, or Wonderboard. Your local big box store will have one of those.
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Unread 05-18-2019, 06:57 PM   #18
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Alright very helpful stuff. Thank you all!

So...When I bury the cement board in the deck mud, should I tape and thinset the seams like I do everywhere else? Also, I've heard differing opinions about putting red gard on the floor. Some say it will create a moisture sandwich. Any strong opinions on that issue?

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Unread 05-18-2019, 07:05 PM   #19
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No need at all to tape the floor/wall joint in that application.

Do not apply any direct bonded waterproofing membrane (RedGard, etc.) over the final mud bed of a traditional shower receptor.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 05-18-2019, 08:09 PM   #20
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I found wonder board lite in 7/16" and Durock in 1/2" at my Home Depot. Durock seems to crumble easier than the wonderboard (they were destroyed at the Depot). Is the 1/8" that much of a deciding factor? I'm leaning towards wonderboard if all else is equal. Any pros or cons to either one of those? The Wonderboard is the only one that says it meets ANSI Specifications.

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Unread 05-18-2019, 09:06 PM   #21
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I'm not a CBU guy and have only used Hardiebacker (other than shower projects) and Durock. I found the Durock easy enough to work with and would use it again if I had to use a CBU. It meets the ANSI specs for a CBU.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 05-19-2019, 01:18 AM   #22
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If you have to fur out the studs like I mentioned in post 16, a little thinner CBU might be nice if you have sheetrock to flush up with.
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Unread 05-19-2019, 07:29 AM   #23
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Good point, Davy.

I've never actually seen one of those Austin fiberglass receptor jobs, but it doesn't appear they make any effort at all to cut them into the stud walls to eliminate that problem.

And actually this one looks like they use pre-made fiberglass panels and put them together on site. Haven't noticed that in any previous photos we've seen with those fiberglass receptors.
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Unread 05-19-2019, 08:25 AM   #24
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Learn me about this type of "liner". Do they somehow add slope to it? How does it tie to drain?

No such animal around here, some old copper pans, like the '64 model we live in!
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Unread 05-19-2019, 09:35 AM   #25
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From what I can tell, they built the preslope, laid the fiberglass on top of that and then use some kind of waterproofing resin/clear compound/similar to bring it all together. They still used a clamping drain, I'm curious how they maintained the integrity of the weep holes, myself.

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Unread 05-19-2019, 09:41 AM   #26
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Peter, back when I was a high school kid, about 45 years ago, I helped my dad build a few of those fiberglass pans. My sister worked at a local fiberglass shop and dad could easily get the materials from them. Having a preslope wasn't a concern back in those days, at least I don't remember it being a concern like it is today. He would mix up a large coffee can full of resin and start painting it on the shower floor. He then would lay the fiberglass mat into the resin and paint more on top of it. He had to work fast, depending on how much hardner he added to the resin, his time was limited before it "goes off".

I'm sure a preslope could have been added before installing the fiberglass. The top clamping part of the drain was bolted down while the fiberglass was still wet. They did make sure the weepholes remained open.

I don't have a problem with a fiberglass pan as long as the house doesn't shift and move much. I feel the fiberglass would crack instead of flex if there's too much movement. How much it takes to crack, I don't know.
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Unread 05-19-2019, 09:59 AM   #27
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Thanks, Davy. I know a bit about F-glass, having worked around boats for a long spell.


I'm curious what these things are. Fasteners? Spacers? Chingaderas?
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Unread 05-19-2019, 10:06 AM   #28
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Peter, I'm sure you know more about fiberglass than I do. I have no idea what those are, I didn't notice them until you mentioned it. Maybe AC will get us a closer pic of what we're looking at for sure.

Maybe a fastener to hold the mat or panel in place while they add the resin.
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Unread 05-19-2019, 10:06 AM   #29
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How's a guy in Idaho know anything at all about chingaderas, Peter? 'Specially a guy who ain't even from Idaho?

I can't see the photos well enough to even have noticed that there was something foreign in those spots you circled, but if they're there, I'd say they're pretty clearly chingaderas.

Not sure just how the fiberglass receptors got started in Austin, but apparently the code compliance inspectors just love them and are reluctant to approve any other type. And where in the plumbing code is fiberglass even listed as an acceptable waterproofing membrane? Often wondered about all that, 'specially the cracking issue Davy mentioned.
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Unread 05-19-2019, 10:24 AM   #30
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Oh, I'm fluent in chingaderas, CX. Not all Idahoans drag their knuckles on the ground...


For the reasons you stated, I have a GREAT BIG MONITOR, so I can ferret out the minutia!
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