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Old 06-11-2019, 12:41 PM   #151
Radas
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Just did a Google search for your valve number, ended up on Grohe's site, and downloaded the specs

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Old 06-11-2019, 07:41 PM   #152
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I went too grohe site and entered that number. Nothing.
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Old 06-12-2019, 08:40 AM   #153
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I'm gonna get some ditra heat duo down so I can start using any leftover mud rather than trash.
Kneepads ready.

I am hoping its ok to use a 15 year old bag of versabond? IT is ansi A181.1 and seems to be all powdery but I am reading its best to not use portland cement products after 6 months in opened bag.. probably why they stated putting thinset in plastic bags... I guess I will jsut chuck these old grout and mortar in the shed..
ITs not worth 15$ for the risk
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Old 06-12-2019, 11:55 AM   #154
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Teddy, I doubt the leftover thinset will have the thinner consistency for putting the Ditra down. Or were you thinking about filling the waffles?

I'd strongly consider a good modified to deal with floors in all aspects, including attaching the Ditra to the floor. Unless, of course, you want to be a good Schluter boy. Then you'll keep using your old-fashioned unmodified and miss out on that cool "new" modified stuff that's somewhat superior.

If you're just wanting to prefill the waffles, I'd be careful if you aren't ready for the floor tile yet. You might knock the contents loose by stepping on them. I've never used Ditra Heat but I've heard that the mat's shape doesn't "trap" the thinset mechanically like traditional Ditra does.

Don't forget the moist sponge wipe to remove any dust prior to the Ditra installation. But I bet you already knew that anyway.
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Old 06-12-2019, 02:01 PM   #155
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i wiped the floor with a real wet sponge 4 times... I thought I had the thinset wet enough. I used 1/4" x 1/4" trowel and the first 1/3 poured out of the bucket. I spread it all in 10 minutes and then used brute force and a old dried up slippery grout float. Checking coverage and i wasn't real happy. I know they show pictures of Ditra heat Duo looking different than ditra.It was like I didn't have enough Maybe my trowel angle was to steep... Now I Wished I did a 3x 3 test area first. But I have to think it will hold as I didn't pull it up.

I don't see why you cant use a modified with that dry SLC and cement to take away the moisture. Yes I used unmodifed Kerabond.
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Old 06-12-2019, 07:21 PM   #156
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I hope you didn't use that 15 year old thinset. It's not worth the risk.
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Old 06-12-2019, 08:27 PM   #157
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If Schluter specs call for unmodified, i’d use that. Albeit a high quality one. In my opinion, a modified where it isn’t needed is a waste of money. Any additional thinset strength is a moot point when the ditra only needs to meet a shear strength of 50 psi. That will let go far before any modified or unmodified.

With the ditra heat, I’ve taken to burning the backs of sheets to get good coverage. I found that the thicker fleece makes it tougher to get good transfer otherwise.

If you prefill ditra heat, just be aware that the thinset tends to pop out of the indented bowls on top of each knob more easily than regular or xl ditra.
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Old 06-12-2019, 10:03 PM   #158
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Yes I used new plastic bag Kerabond.
I can imagine the divots popping out. I only filled 21" near the wall under cabinets. I need to install heating cable out in the room. I read prefilling protects the cable and you can put chalk line. But I will be using laser line.
Maybe I should have wet the cement more, used 1/4" x3/8", and made it more a slurry. If you watch some YouTube they use almost a slurry so I don't see how you could back butter with that. If to much goes into the fuzzy back the thermal barrier will conduct better. But that didn't happen. After 2 hours I did try to lift up a inch section by the doorway where the SLC is 1/2" tall and the fuzzy seems stuck.
Overall I may not sleep well tonight. let those little crystals grow. I won't walk on it for a couple days or 4-5 days as I'm taking off this weekend. I did cover the walking areas with 35#/ sq ft tile boxes. There is a stacked washer dryer going in this area so I sure don't want any issues.

I did just try lift up in several spots and its bonding. I think I will soak the floor until it wont take any more water next time. This is a real dry climate..
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Old 06-13-2019, 08:18 AM   #159
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Some of you will notice I tried to space the ditra 1/4" off the wall but thinset had other plans... so I wasted 30 mins to chip out and make an expansion joint.. I say this as a lesson and reminder for anyone else... I will pick up some 1/4" foam before I lay more Ditra.

I shouldn't look ahead to much but I'm thinking about my heating cable. It will provide about 26.7 sq ft, my plan was a l shape area. 32" wide with the 7' leg and a 36" wide on the 8' leg.. basically all the area from the door to the sink which is at the corner of the L and then on to the toilet.
I now read where its best to keep the heating cable in a rectangular shape not more than 1:1.5 ratio. opps
Also it says 8" away from heat registers. I have excess fireplace heat blown into the bathroom behind the far left cabinet... I can have it exit out anywhere under the toe kick.. I was going to have it exit in front of the sink. But this area is where I for sure want the heating cable. the air exits at 90 f . The fireplace most likely wont ever be on in the morning.. so I ant the hat by the sink and toilet. This 8" clearance from a heat vent seems non specific.
because if it is a vertical vent it would have much less effect than a horizontal vent like mine.
Maybe I will call Schluter about this
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Old 06-13-2019, 08:54 AM   #160
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I did call schluter. I didn't get a real good answer about the l shape but I asked other questions 2 inches from cabinets and walls 4in from plumbing fixtures 7in from centerline of toilet drain 4 inch away from forced air heating ducts whether there horizontal or vertical which seems strange to me. I had read they had decided you could do a 3 to spacing and that will reduce my square footage to 22.6 but concentrate the heat more and I think that would be perfect for me. Baseboard heat is 8 in in I'm wondering if my horizontal air vent is more like a baseboard heater? I wished I was just a dumb person
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Old 06-14-2019, 06:40 AM   #161
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One last upper wall tile. The intersection of the door cap and ceiling is very complicated. Trying to get door cap to slope a bit into shower and everything. Unfortunately the bathroom ceiling is sloped right here outside of the shower so the little less than 3 inch piece above the doorway is going to have a noticeable taper but I want the top of the door level.
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Old 06-14-2019, 01:20 PM   #162
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Dumb luck I have the same size triangle on each side. I'm finished with upper walls.
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Old 06-14-2019, 08:11 PM   #163
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Well I was going to lay the ceiling tiles mixed up a half a bucket of mortar put about 9 or 10 square feet on the ceiling getting ready to lay my first 18 x 12 tiles on a ceiling. but I went to stick the first tile and it just wouldn't budge it was stuck definitely hanging there even though I have that dilex slip to put it on it didn't need it really but I couldn't push it at all , I couldn't move it in and collapse the half-inch trowel mud. I took it all off the ceiling and scrapped the mud, now enjoying a cold beer after mowing the yard. I kind of wanted to have the first row up so it could cure for a couple days but I can pick this up Monday.

I may have to start weighing my powder and water more carefully. Do you guys use an old bathroom scale or something?
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Old 06-16-2019, 05:01 AM   #164
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I guess I'm asking what side should my glass door mount to?
Will 2x4 be strong enough?
And should it be centered or closer to outside? I am trying to make everything inside shower slope in.

Thinking ahead to shower door and then where the peak of my ramp and mud bed should be. Wondering about how most glass door hinges mount on the wall. Are they narrow enough to mount in one stud the 1.5" side? ?

I put a 2x4 facing the door location on my wet knee wall. I had planned on door centered on steam wall left side in pictures. The facing stud is joined with a cross stud at the end to form a strong tee. But this puts the door center 1/4" from the 2x4 joint. I'm starting to wonder if this flat 2x4 was such a good idea to mount a heavy door. It is only going to be a 26" wide door so not real heavy. But maybe I should plan to mount the door centered in the end stud say 1.25" plus tile thickness from outside of shower? Not centered in 2x4 in the 5.5" wide wall across at 1 3/4" . Instead mount it at the center of the end Support stud. the reason I think of this is I'm visiting my brother's brand new house and it appears his wall stud has flexed under the weight of their heavy shower door and now the tops of the glass door and wall glass wall are hitting. He has 9 ft tall ceilings so that stud if there's only one going vertical maybe has flexed with the weight of the door. Seeing new construction quality I think it's best OCD people buy older houses with quality craftsmanship or build their own.

I was planning on the door being a left hand but maybe I should mount it on the end wall? There is a toilet in green area and that was the reason I didn't. I wish I had doubled up this end stud but do you think it would hold a door?
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Old 06-16-2019, 07:35 AM   #165
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I like to make a mud/tile speed bump across the door way (say 3/8 inch high) for the door to seal to. You don't want the rubber that's on the door to drag the bathroom floor every time you open it.

I like more than 1 2x4 edgeways. Add extra 2x4's, then you don't have to worry about it.
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