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Old 06-08-2019, 11:34 AM   #16
NHjohn
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So, we're only tiling the walls 80" up from the shower floor and will use bullnose for the top row. Painted drywall above that. As far the Kerdi goes, is it okay to run the Kerdi up 79" or so? I just don't want Kerdi above the tile.
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Old 06-08-2019, 11:35 AM   #17
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Long as your waterproofing extends above the shower head supply pipe you should be fine, John.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 06-08-2019, 11:40 AM   #18
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Perfect, thanks!
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Old 06-25-2019, 07:32 AM   #19
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Project was delayed a bit by an old ACL injury making it impossible to kneel. Back in action now.

Question: When putting the Kerdi down on the mud pan, how long do I have to wait before I can get on top of it to install Kerdi band on the floor/wall edges and corners?
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Old 06-25-2019, 07:34 AM   #20
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At least a day, John, or you'll leave divots all over it with your hands/knees/shoes/etc.

I'd wait 2 since the TS will take longer to cure under the Kerdi.
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Old 06-25-2019, 09:05 AM   #21
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Thanks, Dan! Was just thinking I might be able to mix one batch of thinset for both, but looks like I need to let it cure first on the floor.
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Old 06-28-2019, 05:01 AM   #22
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Is there any reason I couldn't do the floor/wall Kerdi Band seams first and then do the floor last?
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Old 06-28-2019, 05:49 AM   #23
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I'd want to do the floor first, then the floor/wall.

If you do the wall first then the floor you'll end up with a bit of a dam equal to the thickness of the Kerdi and the mortar the perimeter of the floor. That dam will hold some amount of water. If you do the floor first, then the floor to wall there won't be a dam.

Maybe it doesn't really matter in the end with Kerdi, but anything you can do to avoid water collecting anywhere seems logical to me. I used Durock's membrane when I did my shower, floor first, then the corner pieces, then the floor to wall seams, then the vertical wall corners.
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Old 06-30-2019, 06:29 AM   #24
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Finished the mud pan yesterday, using Mapei 4 to 1. How long should I wait before standing on it to start tiling the walls, etc? (The underlayment is plywood/plastic/metal lath and weather is warm and pretty humid.) The bag says "Protect floor from foot traffic for 16 hours and from heavy
traffic for 72 hours" The bag also states "Allow the mortar to fully cure before installing tile." How does one know when it's fully cured?
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Old 06-30-2019, 07:54 AM   #25
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After 16 hours you can stand on it. It will be quite solid. You can do any scraping and finishing of the mudbed before it gets real hard. You will see you can scuff off the surface by rubbing. It will just keep getting harder. Protect the floor and you can tile walls.
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Old 06-30-2019, 08:52 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John
Is there any reason I couldn't do the floor/wall Kerdi Band seams first and then do the floor last?
No reason at all, John.

I would have recommended you not even install your Kerdi drain and mud floor until your walls were tiled except for the bottom row. Much easier to work over a bare floor than to worry about contaminating or damaging the drain or floor. One of the biggest advantages of the direct bonded waterproofing membrane constructions, to my thinking.

The tile industry considers normal deck mud sufficiently cured after a minimum of 20 hours, but recommends longer cure times when possible. The cure time for those exotic mud mixtures such as you have, and which I don't recommend, are as specified by the manufacturer.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 06-30-2019, 10:36 AM   #27
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Thanks!
I was originally going to tile the walls and then finish with the pan etc as you suggested, CX, but we're still waiting on some wall tile (back-ordered) so I'm going to do the floor first and put down a piece of cardboard to protect it when tiling the walls.

As for the 4 to 1, I really liked it, didn't have to measure/mix the sand and portland, so it was easy mixing it a bag at a time... and our tile store had if for $8 bag.
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Old 07-05-2019, 08:53 AM   #28
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Quick question about Schluter Set thinset. I'm done installing the membrane, but I have a couple bubbles I don't like and want to apply patches with Kerdi Band. Can I use the thicker mixing formula (less water) recommended for tile to membrane? I'd prefer not to mix a separate batch of thinset for this tiny amount and just use some of the thinset I'm mixing for the tile.

Edit: I was thinking of just thinning some of it, but the instructions state " Do not add more water after mixing."
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Old 07-05-2019, 09:04 AM   #29
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I would not do that, John. The principle behind the waterproofing of the overlaps in the Kerdi membrane is based in part upon the very thin thinset mortar profile between the layers. You want to preserve that.

If you mix a batch for installing your tile, just scoop out a cupful and add a tiny bit of water to get the correct consistency for your patch, eh?

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 07-05-2019, 09:08 AM   #30
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Thanks, CX. That's what I wanted to do, but the instructions state " Do not add more water after mixing."
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