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Unread 10-25-2016, 09:17 PM   #31
jadnashua
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Not being condescending...read and follow the instructions! It really isn't all that hard, but with any wall board, you want your studs to be plumb and all in plane. If they aren't, fix them before installing the board. It'll mess up cbu, too, so this is not unique to any one product. When installing the fasteners, don't overdrive them...the head and washer should just be far enough in so it is flat across and doesn't catch when you rub a straightedge across the surface, not so far in it tears the surface sheet.

Wedi works, too, but using their special sealant on the seams adds to the overall costs verses using thinset and the Kerdiband. I think that the Kerdiband also helps to bond the two sheets together better, but I have not tested it.
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Unread 10-26-2016, 04:56 AM   #32
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Thank you Jim. No worries I didn't take it as condescending. Sometimes the most basic things get overlooked. Frankly, after watching the DIY shows (I know, I know they are the devil) and before I found this forum I thought you just threw CBU on your studs and you were good to go. Fortunately, I've never done that as I'm far too OCD to not do my due diligence. I watched all the Schluter videos (even on the products I'm not using) and it all just looked way too easy. My main goal is to do this right on the first time. I'm using expensive materials and I don't have a lot of discretionary funds to throw at poorly done project re-dos.

So far I've got the new sub floor and supporting framework (two of the joists were incorrectly notched and cannot be repaired or sistered. Long story) planned out. Still sourcing the shower base as the definition of the color "white" seems to be rather nebulous. I'm not doing a mud bed as I know my own limitations and have dealt with one that epically failed. No need to open that wound.
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Unread 10-26-2016, 02:51 PM   #33
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One place many people have difficulty is in ignoring the recommendation to wipe down surfaces with a damp/wet sponge prior to spreading the thinset...it helps even on something like KerdiBoard. This assumes that you've chosen a decent thinset and mixed it properly which is the second (and maybe the first issue). If you can get it, I highly recommend DitraSet...Schluter had it specifically made for them for optimum performance with their products. This is not to say that other thinsets won't work, but theirs is a good product that is easier to use than most.

Spreading thinset without making a mess of things is an art. The good thing is that the Kerdi will be covered with tile when you're done, and looks don't matter. It gets easier and faster as you master that, but you can get reliable results without it looking neat. It is critical to get things fully embedded, and you do not want excess thinset (a good portion of the mechanism that makes seams waterproof is the intimacy of the fleece between the two sheets - excess thinset can be an issue), but isn't really all that hard. If the thinset is the right consistency, it's easy to squeegee the excess out and in the process, embed the fleece...no excess pressure is needed. Their trowel notches do apply a slight excess, but it makes it easier to get things embedded and doesn't waste much, but is the source of the excess you see on some installs. Deft use of the trowel, and if you're obsessive, maybe a wipe with a sponge can make it look neater without the excess creating an uneven surface or buildup in a corner where you have multiple layers. IF your thinset and surface are prepped properly, the stuff does go up easily with good coverage. I've probably mentioned it before (have to others), but thinset does NOT bond to Kerdi...it must flow around the fleece, then when it cures, the sheet is locked in place. But, it does not actually 'stick' to Kerdi (or Ditra, for that matter). KerdiBoard is slightly different than the sheet, and it does stick to that, but you need to seal the seams with the banding material.

The corners are shaped so that when banding the rest of the seam, you do not need or want the band to go all the way into the corner, helping to minimize the buildup...all you need is at least a 2" overlap. Try it with just the dry pieces and you'll see what I mean on the geometry of the layout.
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Unread 10-26-2016, 02:56 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyingscot View Post
Mods, I think I need to change the title of this thread to something that more accurately reflects my project as I have more questions.
Let me know what title you want and I'll be happy to change it.
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Unread 10-27-2016, 06:26 AM   #35
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Thank you Jim for your very helpful information. As I am an utter newbie to troweling on thinset I plan on practicing on some drywall pieces I have laying around (understanding that it's not the same as the kerdi board) just to get the feel of how thick I need to lay it on and to basically learn how to use a trowel. I will be following all manufacturer's directions for which material to use, how to use it and any other detail they provide. You guys are providing me the benefit of years of experience in using these products and I very much appreciate it.
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Unread 10-27-2016, 06:37 AM   #36
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Let me know what title you want and I'll be happy to change it.
How about "Idiot builds a Bathroom"? Just kidding.

It's a 1912 bungalow so maybe "1912 Bungalow Complete Bathroom Renovation" Does that sound interesting enough?
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Unread 10-27-2016, 09:28 AM   #37
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Sounds like a good title to me. Somebody else beat me to it, it was already changed when I got here.
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Unread 10-27-2016, 10:53 PM   #38
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Ah gott mah hah-speed innernet goin on rite cheer in Arkinsaw, DaveM.
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Unread 10-29-2016, 04:20 PM   #39
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Thought you guys would like to see what I started with so in about 9 months (hopefully) you'll really understand how much you've helped me. This is what my bathroom has looked like for the last 4 years.
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Unread 10-29-2016, 04:23 PM   #40
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Can't figure out how to attach multiple pictures or make them stop going sideways. Sorry.
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Unread 10-29-2016, 05:23 PM   #41
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You'll have better luck from a desktop or laptop rather than a phone or tablet.
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Unread 11-07-2016, 08:23 AM   #42
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So a question for you folks. I'm still sourcing out supplies for this bathroom reno. It would seem something simple shouldn't have to be so difficult but I'm having trouble finding, of all things, white subway tile. To be fair I haven't been to the tile showrooms because most of them have ridiculous hours (M-F until 4pm). Their websites are not really helpful. For instance, I know Dal Tile has white subway but what I can't find is if they have a coordinating p-cap, bull nose or base tile. Same with American Olean. There are a few specialty companies but their tile is stunningly expensive and I don't really need hand made. The only place that I can see for sure has the pieces I need is The Tile Shop which seems to have a rather onerous reputation here. I don't want cheap tile but at the same time this isn't the Taj Mahal. Any suggestions of companies that make quality subway tile that won't make me have to take out a second mortgage?
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Unread 11-07-2016, 03:15 PM   #43
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I used white subway tiles from the big blue store. The big orange one also has them. Both have a variety of matching caps, bullnose, etc.
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Unread 03-13-2017, 08:24 AM   #44
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I don't mean to hijack but since we are talking about small joints and sanded vs unsanded would the Mapei Ultracolor FA be okay to use on honed marble hex tile with 1/8" joints. To me the sanded looks a little more "vintage" which would suit my house better but I worry about scratching the tile.

End of hijack. Mods, feel free to move this if you find it totally inappropriate.
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Unread 03-13-2017, 09:12 AM   #45
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Lynn, I moved your post from the other visitor's thread to prevent confusion there and see that you're question's not lost. If I'm wrong about it being part of this renovation project, we can move it to a new thread if necessary.

You'll get the same answer wherever it appears, though. You need to test the grout on your tile to determine whether it will scratch the surface. I can't find a lot of chatter about it here on the forums, but the finer aggregate should be to your advantage. But test! Make up a test board if you have no inconspicuous place in your layout.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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