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Old 12-20-2015, 01:08 PM   #31
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Again, thanks for the reply.

I was hoping that the plan for the beam would be easier/better but it looks like the original plan of sistering all the 2x10 floor joists may be the overall best option.
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Old 12-20-2015, 02:04 PM   #32
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With ripping down the existing joists, the beam might be your only viable option.
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Old 12-20-2015, 02:14 PM   #33
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Noted!
Thanks CX
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Old 02-08-2016, 11:06 AM   #34
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Progress

Been a little bit since my last update so here is progress as of yesterday,

Joist sistered and beam added below the joists I will be cutting to allow for a curbless shower. I even broke out the trusty block plane to level a few of the high spots on the joists.

The last picture shows what lies ahead of me...That 12" mark is where the toilet goes looks like I have more structural work to do.

Could someone rotate the 1st, 3rd and 5th pic 90 cw please? Not sure why they uploaded from the computer like that.
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Old 02-08-2016, 11:08 AM   #35
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The footers the support beam are resting on are 12 inches wide and 2 feet deep.
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Old 02-08-2016, 06:35 PM   #36
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Is that vertical support pressure treated ?
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Old 02-08-2016, 06:43 PM   #37
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Paul, it is not treated. Nothing in my crawl is treated so that is why I went with that. I am assuming you are thinking moisture will wick up through the concrete. I will say this my crawl never gets damp even in the heaviest of rains. It shouldn't be too much trouble to change out if you think that's a better way to go. Here is what the post attaches to the concrete with.
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Old 02-08-2016, 06:50 PM   #38
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Just curious. I've seen a number of houses built without PT lumber that are a hunnert years old and still standing.
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Old 02-08-2016, 07:53 PM   #39
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With that bracket to hold it above the concrete, I wouldn't worry.
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Old 02-12-2016, 10:44 AM   #40
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Im getting ready to notch my joists to allow for my curbless entry shower, and build the floor for that. I'm trying to figure out how much I need to cut down my joists. I will be using a kerdi-line drain. The distance of the slope will be 64"

What thickness of flooring do I need to use under the deck mud?
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Old 02-12-2016, 11:14 AM   #41
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The minimum slope required for your shower floor is 1/4" per horizontal foot. The depth of your rips will depend upon what waterproofing method you plan to use, how far above the subfloor your drain will sit, what you plan for floor covering outside the shower, etc.

The minimum subflooring you could use is nominal 5/8ths of an inch. If you're still putting the subfloor between the joists, I'd use nothing less than 3/4-inch material.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 02-12-2016, 12:26 PM   #42
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Thanks for the reply..

I will be using kerdi as my waterproofing. At 64", I figured my slope at 1 3/8", give or take a 1/16th. From what I have read it looks like the kerdi-line drains are about 1 inch installed on the subfloor. The rest of the bathroom has a double layer floor (3/4" and 1/2) and will have ditra on top of that. With that being said it looks like I will have to rip my joists down 1" to get my 1/4" per foot slope. And yes I will be putting the subfloor of the shower area (3/4") between the joists.

Does my math seem correct?
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Old 03-09-2017, 08:08 PM   #43
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Its been a while so I thought I'd post some updates. (The first 2 pictures need rotated 90 clockwise)

Question? How do I tile the circled area in my last pic. The slope to my linear drain will be left to right in that pic. I will be doing a mud bed and using Schluter products
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Old 03-10-2017, 09:23 AM   #44
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Schluter makes a tapered metal piece for those areas.

https://www.schluter.com/schluter-us...HOWERPROFILE_S

Search their videos and you should be able to find a video of it being installed.
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Old 03-10-2017, 10:23 AM   #45
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Rich,
I saw that profile and I have watched the video. I was just unsure if it would work in my situation due to the fact that on the far left of the area I have circled it will taper to nothing there.

This picture that I googled shows what my slope will do
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