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Unread 11-27-2015, 05:15 PM   #16
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One idea
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Unread 11-27-2015, 05:21 PM   #17
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Yes I was thinking a glass panel in that section.
I can make the pony wall 36", with 20" of glass to the opening of the shower. The shower opening would be 28", is that too big too small?
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Unread 11-27-2015, 05:47 PM   #18
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24 is a wide shower door, but you can make the opening wider if you wish.

ummm, how wide are the other household members ?
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Unread 11-27-2015, 05:56 PM   #19
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Ha. It's just me. And I'm not very wide at all.
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Unread 11-27-2015, 05:57 PM   #20
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Then its just the ease of access for the cleaning staff.
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Unread 11-27-2015, 07:18 PM   #21
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What about putting the drain along the back wall and sloping the entire shower floor to it? I assume I would still have to lower the floor like I was describing in post #15? I'd like to keep that pony wall as small as possible, basically just enough to hide the end of vanity. Or, I could take the pony wall out and have a large wall of glass.

I'm glad I am still in the planning stages...
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Unread 11-28-2015, 11:01 AM   #22
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You could, but you'd still need a door or curtain
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Unread 11-29-2015, 07:42 AM   #23
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For some reason Paul's last response didn't post.

I'm still having a hard time wrapping my mind around how to do this.

Another idea I had was to take out the pony wall and put a curb in the full length. So essentially it would be a glass wall on top of the curb with a 24" opening in to the shower.

Any other ideas?
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Unread 11-29-2015, 05:10 PM   #24
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I took a picture of the original house drawings to show what I am doing.

The washer and dryer will be opposing one another on the far left. The door leading outside will be removed.
The wall between the bathroom and laundry room is moving over giving me my shower.
The vanity was originally in the closet in the master bedroom. I have removed it and moved the wall between the bathroom and the closet in to the closet about 2 feet. That gives me the room for my vanity in the bathroom.
The tub below the window will come out and that is where the toilet is going.
The door into the bathroom and the one in the laundry room will be converted to pocket doors.
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Unread 12-18-2015, 09:43 AM   #25
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I have decided not to sister all the floor joists. I have plenty of room underneath for a beam to cut my unsupported span in half. My span will go from 13.5 feet down to about 6 feet. Doing this will be easier and according to the deflecto it will yield much better results.

1. What size 2x material should I make my beam out of? The span of the beam will be 12 feet.

2. I'll be supporting the beam with 4x4 NON pressure treated posts, is something like THIS ok to use to support the posts?

3. When I trim down some of the floor joists to allow for a sloped shower floor like in the picture. Should I still go ahead and sister those joists full length in addition to the beam?
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Unread 12-20-2015, 12:39 PM   #26
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Any thoughts on the above questions?
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Unread 12-20-2015, 12:44 PM   #27
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1- There's a chart for the beam size somewhere. You'll need to know the beam span and species. The chart will include all that.

2- depends on what those blocks rest - will the blocks have good support?

3- Can't hurt, but if they meet the deflecto there is no reason to.
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Unread 12-20-2015, 12:50 PM   #28
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1. I think we need to know why you're adding the mid-span support. If you're using ceramic tile, I believe we've already established that your joist system meets the requirements.

Here's a useful calculator for determining what your beam might need to be.

2. Depends upon what they're sitting on.

3. Depends how much you intend to remove and where you might install your new support beam if you install one. Ripping the existing joists at an angle means you no longer have any real idea what size or grade the "new" joists will qualify as. Sistering might be a good idea, but, again, the amount of ripping and location of supports would determine just how much might be adequate.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 12-20-2015, 12:53 PM   #29
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1. The span of the beam will be 12 feet the species will be SYP. I'll see if I can find the chart.

2. The blocks will rest on flat level dirt in the crawl space.

Thanks Paul!
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Unread 12-20-2015, 12:55 PM   #30
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2- round these parts that base will need to set on at least a 2 foot x 2 foot concrete pad buried at least one foot into the ground. With 1/2" rebar in a particular configuration. Your mileage may vary.
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