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Old 01-30-2019, 04:10 PM   #16
Franko
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Thanks Wolfgang. Yes, it's ABS -- it will outlast the house. I'm also inclined to leave it alone (except for trying to raise it up just a little bit when I attach the Fernco & PVC) but I'm putting this out there in case someone says this is a really bad idea.
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Old 02-18-2019, 12:27 PM   #17
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Right thin set for CMU over slab?

To build my shower curb I'll be laying CMU blocks over the concrete slab. My question is, do I use Modified or UNmodified thin set to lay the blocks?

(Based on my reading, the correct type of thin set seems to boil down whether the material is impervious to air or not, but I don't know if a concrete slab and CMU are considered impervious.)

Also, I want to bond the ends of the curb to the framing lumber. I'm thinking of screwing a small piece of 1/4" drywall to the bottom 4" of the framing lumber, then applying Kerdi to the drywall, so I can use thinset between the CMU and the drywall. Sound OK? Again, would that be modified or unmodified? Thanks.
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Old 02-18-2019, 01:46 PM   #18
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Don't make things more complicated for yourownself, Frank. You can bond CMUs together using whatever thinset mortar you have at hand. Or even some Type S mortar if you've got that.

You don't need to bond your curb blocks to the framing, but if you wanna stabilize the ends a bit you can drive a few hot-dipped galvanized nails into the framing and apply the mortar for the ends of your blocks for a little mechanical bond.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 02-19-2019, 08:40 AM   #19
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Thanks CX. I see so much written about the importance of using the right type of thin set (mod or un-mod) depending on the products being joined that I'm paranoid I'll use the wrong one. The key seems to be whether the products are impervious or not, which is why I asked it that way.

In JB's Bathroom remodeling book, he says to apply thin set on the slab before I put down the deck mud, but it doesn't appear to specify which type. Does it not matter?
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Old 02-19-2019, 10:00 AM   #20
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No, it does not matter. You can even use pure Portland cement in that application if you want.
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Old 02-21-2019, 02:40 PM   #21
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How to grind off the adhesive??

I've seen postings that the best way to get the vinyl adhesive off the concrete slab is to grind it off with a diamond cup wheel on a grinder. So I went out and bought one.

BUT, I just tried it and I'm getting a ton of gouges in the slab -- it's taking off the adhesive, but it seems impossible to not create gouge tracks. Should I be using just an abrasive wheel of some kind? Other tips on what I might be doing wrong?

I have a dust shroud attached to it, and it has a springy action to it, so maybe that's the problem. ???
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Old 02-21-2019, 03:09 PM   #22
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Does your cup wheel have a single or double row of diamond pads, Frank?

For the placement of deck mud, the minor gouges in the concrete surface will not be harmful and could be considered a useful texturing.

Perhaps you could show us a photo of what you're ending up with?

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 02-21-2019, 03:29 PM   #23
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Picture attached. The wheel has a single row of pads - picture attached of that too.
I thought maybe the gouges wouldn't be a problem under the mud bed, but would they be a problem under the Ditra/floor tiles? I thought that had to be pretty smooth.
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Old 02-21-2019, 04:02 PM   #24
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Haven't ever used a cup wheel of that design, Frank. Not sure I've ever seen one. The single-row models usually have those pads lined up end to end and they tend to dig in more than those with two rows of such pads end to end. All I can tell you is that with more practice you'll find you can keep it from digging in so much. You want to hold it closer to parallel to the concrete surface.

And you need to remove a lot more of that glue if you're planning a bonded mud bed there.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 02-21-2019, 04:28 PM   #25
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You have to keep the cup wheel pretty flat with the floor. I had a similar situation with getting ready to do epoxy on my garage floor. Used a wooden fixture made from scrap wood to hold the working end of the angle grinder flat.
Iím sure you can rig something similar up.
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Old 06-07-2019, 09:04 AM   #26
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Thought I'd post an update. The pics show what I did with the knee wall.
I put 4" tall CMU blocks on the slab and wrapped them in Kerdi. Then I built a wood frame and used J bolts to attach it to the CMU. To stiffen the wall I had a 3/8" thick, 4" wide iron brace made and I screwed it to the wall and the studs. (I used a router to recess the brace into the framing.) I ripped the framing to be 1/2" inset on each side of the CMU so I could cover it with drywall. I'll put Kerdi over that. The wall's solid as a rock. The brace cost about $120.
Just finished all the drywall in the rest of the bathroom (taping is the worst!) and will be ready to build the benches (out of CMU), then Kerdi and finally tile.
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Old 06-07-2019, 09:11 AM   #27
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Nicely done! I am a fan of overkill
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Old 06-07-2019, 11:58 AM   #28
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The OCD is strong with this one it is.

I didn't go to that length, but I was fascinated how much stiffer my pony wall became after drywalling one side and covering the shower side with CBU and membrane (Durock). I could still move it a bit, even after installing the corner bench. But what really took all the movement out was when I finished covering the bench with membrane, over lapping onto the wall membrane, and adding the stone top and side piece. There's no give in that wall now.
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Old 06-08-2019, 12:39 PM   #29
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Talking

Haha... Thanks Yoda. My wife and I both got a kick out of that. She TOTALLY agrees with you...I just think I'm thorough.
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Old 06-25-2019, 03:15 PM   #30
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Quick Kerdi question

I finished applying the Kerdi today and I'll start the tiling tomorrow.

But I can't remember if Schluter recommends that I dampen the Kerdi before I put on the thin set, (as they do before applying the Kerdi to the drywall.)

Also, what size trowel would you recommend for tile that is 5x16? Thanks much.
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