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Old 09-12-2018, 03:25 PM   #1
louky
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Advice on Advice/ Demo

I suggested my elderly parents convert their main floor bathtub to a shower. Neither of them take baths now and getting to the upstairs shower could be a mobility problem in the future.

They have a friend who has done a fair amount of remodeling started on demo last week. He removed tile from all of the (1960's) bathroom other than the tub surround. Standard 4 1/4 square tile, I would call the tile in the rest of the bath a "false" mud job, using mud caps but laid over double thickness of drywall to line up with the tub surround. The tub surround is an actual mud job, cement mud over metal lath. He started to take some of this tile off and ran into difficulty.

He is now advising them just to leave the tile and have the tile setter put a 1/4 cement board over it, the tile over top of that. I don't think this is a good way to do this job. I was going to put the shower valve in for them. While I can probably deal with this from the back, it might increase the difficulty. It is now galvanized piping, probably coming off a riser as there is an identical bath directly above this one.

I think leaving this tile and mud and lath on would be a bad shortcut to take for a number of reasons. Can anyone chime in if they have had a tile job done by a reputable tile setter and they chose this method? The "lure" of doing this and leaving the tile is obvious, I'm interested in enumerating the "cons" so I can share them.

What would be a fair price to demo a normal size tub surround (3 x 5 tub, tile maybe 5' above tub, assuming dumpster on site paid for by the owner?

I am going to help with fixture removal, changing stop valves, installing shower valve and replacing lavatory valves. I don't live in the same town and probably won't get involved in any of the tile work.
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Old 09-12-2018, 03:53 PM   #2
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I wouldn't ever advise anyone to install cbu over existing tile.

Tile over tile is an acceptable practice in some cases, IF the existing install is sound and free from any issues.

Prices vary greatly by location and market. For me that would fall under my daily rate $350/day.
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Old 09-12-2018, 04:20 PM   #3
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Thanks for the prompt response! If I am picturing this correctly, You would need to fur out the studs where the tub is removed, furring + 1/2 CBU to be flush with existing tile, then set tile, bottom on CBU and the rest on the existing surround.

I am going down tomorrow to put new stops on the toilet and lavatory faucets so they can be shut off for removal.

I plan on taking the drywall off the back side of the shower valve wall to see what will be involved in adding the valve and re-piping the shower head. I will need a firm decision on how they are planning on handling the wall question in order to center the new valve.
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Old 09-12-2018, 04:36 PM   #4
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I'd say post some pics when you get there and let us see exactly what you're dealing with.
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Old 09-12-2018, 05:01 PM   #5
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I donít think that is what Ryan said. I think he was intending for you to fur that wall out. The waterproofing dilemma is just one of the reasons not to do that. Just have your guy bust out the old tile and mud and start from there. No, itís not fun but itíll be over soon. Youíll be glad you did.
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Old 09-12-2018, 08:19 PM   #6
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Take it all out down to the studs and start over. To much money into the redo to not do it right the first time.
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Old 09-19-2018, 04:48 AM   #7
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Thanks to all for the replies. I ended up prevailing, partly by noting how the people on this forum advised, and partly because I offered to do the job myself LOL.

I did some research and bought tuckpoint shroud to go on a Bosch grinder to use with a shop vac, the idea being to cut through the mortar with a diamond blade, the cut through the lath with a sawzall. This was after poppling the tiles off with a SDS hammer drill and a small spade blade. The grinder made a huge amount of dust even with the shroud and shop vac.

I ended up using the hammer drill instead of the grinder to make vertical cuts on one side of each stud and peeling downward in sections. The hammer drill makes more "rubble" but much less dust. I ended up punching through the lath with the hammer drill bit too so I wasn't having to switch back and forth to the sawzall.

It's dirty, tiring work but I am pleased that this tile job is going to start off with a properly prepared base.

BTW, I was using a Harbor Freight hammer drill, about an $80 tool. Sometimes you can strike out on HF, but in this instance to tool performed flawlessly. Once I got rolling, I had this tool running for long periods of time, and it barely got warm.
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Old 09-19-2018, 05:52 AM   #8
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Well done Ray, you're really going to thank yourself for starting with a clean slate. Often one consumes more time trying to make something work than would be spent starting fresh.

Looking forward to the progress pics.
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