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Old 04-18-2018, 08:41 AM   #16
Kman
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That's why you don't have much mortar left on it now. Just be careful not to over dampen the board. It soaks up pretty quickly, but any water on the surface will affect the bond.

Also, you're spelling your name wrong.
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Old 04-23-2018, 06:56 PM   #17
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Could someone help me with a step by step on how to get a wall plumb and in plane...can you use too much felt paper..itís the back wall that Iím struggling with...not sure picture helps...how much leniency do you have for being out of plumb / plan?
Any good threads to look at...
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Old 04-25-2018, 09:16 AM   #18
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So what is the most important
1) plumb walls
2) walls in plane
3) Square walls

For Plumb walls
should I start by making sure the portion of wall towards the ceiling is " flat " / "level"?
Set my plumb bob and then sister the wall studs on each wall?
Then those walls would be plumb and if the new 2x4 are straight then the wall should be in plane?
Start with the back wall?
How to I help to ensure that the walls are then square with one another so I don't get plumb and plane walls but not square walls?
How off is too off with regards to plumb / in plane / square? Likely using smaller tile (subway maybe not sure)

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Old 04-25-2018, 09:38 AM   #19
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Keven, assuming you're talking about the tiled walls of, say, a bathtub/Shower alcove (because I can't quite determine from the photo) -

I'd strive to make the walls plumb. Start on the back wall, in either corner, and try to make that stud plumb, then work the opposite side, then work the studs in between. Move on to one of the side walls and make its corner stud plum. Etc.

Note, you probably don't need the side walls to be 90* to the back wall. And, if you're using small-ish tiles you also don't need a perfectly flat wall - though that would be ideal.

Use whatever means necessary. Sistering the existing studs, replacing studs, using drywall shims, electric planner and/or belt sander, all the above, etc (which is what I had to do).
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Old 04-25-2018, 04:15 PM   #20
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Thanks ss
yes I was talking about walls in a shower--the shower stall is in the back of the picture...

If I plumb the wall on the left hand side of the shower would that that not result in the wall being out of plan with the drywall it butts up to?

I know there is not a perfect answer

Ill plan to start on the back wall and go from there

Sorry i do see the picture is a bit crap...

My plan is to use Kerdi board as my underlayment, kerdi drain, build my preslope with mud
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Old 04-28-2018, 05:40 PM   #21
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My shower area currently is 38"x48"(includes curb)
I'm contemplating lengthening the shower to put in a full width seat
However as u can see there is some venting and water pipes present....
I would probably need to cut out 2.5 ft x 4 ft wide portion of subloor
If u look at picture the wall on the left has a floor truss below it...there is another floor truss 16 in to the right with a 2x6 sistered to that on the left hand side of that truss... (It sits right under the small piece of wood lathe) Then another truss is 24 inches to the right....(where the 3 2x4's are)
Guess the question I have is if I jump to do this would I need to sister a 2x6 to the far left truss considering I wouldn't have anything to attach subfloor too?

What would I do with regards to the right hand side cut...use 2x4 braces? Or cut the subfloor all the way to the far right truss?
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Old 04-28-2018, 07:38 PM   #22
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First image shows the floor truss to the left and the floor truss and 2x6 that is 16 inches to the right of the floor truss ďon the leftĒ

Second picture is of one of two vents I need to move...need it to go back and to the left...this vent comes off the main drainage pipe for this bathroom and the other on this floor...

Just not sure 3.5 inches is enough for 2 90 bends

The other vent pipe in the picture comes from the bathroom below and these two pipes connect into the wall on the left of the picture in prev post

How many bends can an air vent have and be functional?read something that no bend in air vent under 6 inches from drain pipe?
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Old 04-29-2018, 12:33 AM   #23
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Keven, that's an odd bit of plumbing. It's a sanitary tee laid on it's back. Not correct but I'm guessing there's something obstructing having that vent properly installed with a wye upstream in the adjacent truss bay. A pic of that might be helpful.

The other vent would be easier to move. Technically a vent shouldn't turn horizontal below the flood rim of vented fixture.

I'd also be concerned why that 2x is scabbed on the side of truss. Has the truss been cut? That's never a good thing.
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Old 04-29-2018, 05:23 AM   #24
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THanks peter
And the flood rim of a vented fixture is????
Nevermind... the rim of the toilet and or sink in my case...
Well the bend in the vent in post 21 is below the rim of the sink...the sink and the toilet flow into that the large tube...so that wasn’t correct to begin with eh?
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Old 04-29-2018, 08:03 AM   #25
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Truss IS NOT cut

Here is more information on the plumbing venting
I may need to just get a plumber in to take a look...
S = sink
1 = bath one
2= bath two
Sh = shower
T= toilet

Goal is to move the vent coming off the main pipe (one made by t intersection and just before the main pipe drops to go to basement) back and towards the wall on the left...so as to increase length of the shower... pics provided)

Thoughts?
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Old 05-01-2018, 12:58 PM   #26
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Plumber is coming tomorrow to help with the venting plumbing concerns—

My dilemma now is what type...
Can u do another traditional pan in the second bath?
See pic below

Worried about weight of mud bed etc so thought kerdi would be better but damn it is expensive
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Old 05-01-2018, 02:44 PM   #27
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Maybe better picture
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Old 05-01-2018, 02:57 PM   #28
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Keven,is subfloor going to be removed for plumbing access? Can't have joints is subfloor land unsupported between trusses.

I'd be interested to hear plumber's assessment. Lots of plumbing in a small area doesn't lend itself to mods without significant changes methinks.

I might be looking at alternate plans. Maybe a roomy niche on that wall with a corner seat.
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Old 05-01-2018, 08:36 PM   #29
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Yes subfloor will be removed ... I can move what I need with a 16x20 inch piece coming out...one side of subfloor that I remove to gain access will be drilled back into the truss the other side I will use 2x4 supports to create a ledge that the subfloor piece can rest on and be secured to...1/2 inch plywood would be then placed over the top of that screwed into subfloor not joists and orientated grain wise perpendicular to the original subfloor...
I could cut out the subfloor to the other truss but then I would have a bigger area cut out (24x24)
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Old 05-02-2018, 12:47 PM   #30
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For these areas as braces for mud bed ó 2x4 or 2x6 ?
Does it matter if traditional vs kerdi with mud preslope?
I donít think I can do the kerdi foam pan because my floor is not level in back corner maybe off by 1/4 inch then as it moves to the front maybe 1/8?
Itís pretty flat though one area where I can get the level to rock and that is less than an 1/8?
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