Question on rubber membrane for shower pan?

[juicesqueezer]

I have done 4 custom shower builds over the last 10 years and am getting ready to embark on a 5th. Having looked at Kerdi and the new pro board from Noble, the cost is higher than I am willing to spend. I am semi retired and enjoy doing odd jobs and this is where the tile setting has come in to play. I have a Felker and all the tools needed to complete just about any tile build. My question is this: Having done all the builds with the rubber membrane and folding the corners, is it possible to cut the corners to make a clean look and add the (dam corners) with the solvent? I normally go up at least 6 to 8 inches on the sides with the membrane. I hope that I am explaining this correctly!
Question 2: Having read about red guard, I plan on sealing the hardi with this on the walls and the curb. Can you seal the concrete pan with this product as well and lay the tile floor on top?

Thanking you all in advance for your help on this. This is a great forum and we all appreciate you time and advice.

[Hammy]

Joe, welcome to the build forum in the world. I'm originally from Stuart / Ft. Pierce area. I'm personally a KERDI man for my shower pans. But there are other approved methods. Hammy

[Dan Kramer]

If you go Kerdi and sheet rock I don't think the cost could be much more than backerboard, mositure barrier, PVC liner, pre-slope, final slope, 2" alkalai resistant fiberglass mesh tape, lath and mud, damn corners....

My opinion is to go Kerdi. Better, easier, and faster (last 2 come with practice).

[merkretetyler]

juicesqueezer,

Yes, Pro Red can be used as a shower pan membrane, as well. The Kerdi membranes are also a good alternative. I understand your concerns of folding the sheet membrane.

MERKRETE has an excellent liquid membrane and reinforcing fabric in our HydroGuard One product. Review the information on our website http://www.merkrete.com/merkrete/hg-one-01.htm

We have a MERKRETE manufacturing site in Fort Pierce, FL. and our brand of products are available at Dal Tile in the area.

Our local representative is Barrie Semmens at 954-383-6588.

I hope that is helpful.

[CSS]

Our code require corners to be folded To get rid of bow at bottom you can use several methods
1 tca recomends notching studs at bottom for pan

2 you can do an inside tuck where the fold goes between right and left wall studs has to be framed for this method

3 I install pan then use compressed cardbaord shims you can get at HD to shim walls flat and past all plumbing staps and pan then install 6 mil plastic from floor to ceiling then tilebacker

remember no nails in bottom of pan or curb use wire over curb

[juicesqueezer]

Thanks everyone for your answers. I will look into merkrete as well. I normally install plastic sheeting over the studs and then the hardi. Can I use drywall and install a pre slope like kerdi sells and coat it all with the merkrete? Of course, I will seal the gaps were the drywall comes down to the pan. I am assuming that I can use a drywall tape and cover that with the merkrete. The only way I ever did a build before was install pan liner up 6 to 8 inches on wall, install plastic sheeting down over it and bring the hardi down to the top of where I will pour my dry mud. Have never had a problem with this except the folds at the corners of the pan material. I like the idea of the outside tuck between the studs. Good idea. I am wanting to have a shower that you can walk into with out a curb this time. I can't drop the floor of the shower. I can build the rest of the floor up and then do a hump going into the shower. May be more trouble than it is worth. This shower will measure 4X5. Keep in mind that I don't do this for a living, but have done a few.
Oh, Hammy, I lived in Lebanon, TN for 30 years. Not far from you!

Thanks,

[gueuzeman]

http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/...ad.php?t=72403

Not for everyone, but works for me- the "Frankengueuze" shower system.

gueuze

[Hammy]

Joe, i didnt look at the MERKRETE spec sheet, but you need to make sure drywall is an approved substrate for their product. Are you going to build a curb-less shower? If you build the floor up like I think understood, somewhere you have a step up or over, either into the room or into the shower.

seems like we are just the opposite, I lived here for over 30 years moving here from FL. I was in Nashville before moving here 8 years ago.

Hammy

[ceramictec]

I would go with a cementboard if using any liquid applied membrane and drywall if you decide to go with the kerdi.

when doing any surface membrane you don't need the vapor barrier behind the wallboard like when building a traditional pan.

[CSS]

merekrete is a good product but I believe you need tile backer not sheetrock
and read bucket but I think a 4 or 5 day cure time to flood test. Even with no insection you shold always flood test your pans or you wont know if they work or not. I use ardex 8+9 you can flood test in 4 hrs product seem more durable to touch anyways.

[Chad Deiter Company]

Just asing because I have never done a cement board shower .

1. What is the drain you are using for the cement bed and what's the process for the cement board. Tape the joints , then just roll on the membrane . I havr heard that with the redguard you can dilute it down 4 part water to 1 red guard as a primer for the first coat. Are you guys doing that too.

[juicesqueezer]

Chad: I use an Oatey drain for shower pans. You can purchase these at HD. Unfortunately, they don't sell the square drains. I think you can get those at Lowe's.
On the walls, I have had friends in the business who tape the hardi or CBU and then coat with either Red Guard or Laticrete. You don't want to put a plastic liner behind the walls when you apply these products.

I agree on the build up of the floor as well. I am going to have a problem one way or another, so may just go with a shallow curb and be done with it. Will have a 36" door for access anyway.
The one I built in TN had a 36" door that swung both in and out with a wiper for the water. Went with all Grohe fixtures and was very happy with the results. Had 75 lbs pressure up on the 3rd floor. Drain had a problem handling it, but it did work. Just had to be frugal in the amount of body spray's I had on. Heh Heh!
I don't know much about the merkrete, but if it is like Laticrete, will be a good product.

Sorry that I am so long in answering these posts. Still work part time and it is over the weekends. Such is life.

[juicesqueezer]

Chad: Not sure about the diluting of the red guard???? Not sure if the product lit recommends that. Others may be able to help on this. Just don't put plastic sheeting behind the CBU when you coat with this or similar products.

[Chad Deiter Company]

Yah that diluting idea actually came from one of Custom's reps when I was using it on an outside patio a few year back. Worked great. I seen redguard peal off of hardi before so I was worried about that.

[Hammy]

as a primer, RED GARD is diluted 4 to 1 for the first coat. Hammy