Shower Project assistance request

[v b chil-n]

The info on the site has been a great help but I'm stalled at one point and need to ask for assistance..

I have completed everything up to the cement board on the walls (nothing is tiled yet) but I don't know if I should do the joints first or fill them as I tile.. also do I need to put any waterproofing on top of the cement board

[Davestone]

If you didn't use a vapor barrier waterproof it after you fill the joints.If you are meticulous you can prefill the joints but if you leave it heavy it can be a hassle when you tile.

[v b chil-n]

I have 15lb felt behind the cement board. My original plan was to tape the seams and fill the joints with thinset as I tiled up the wall. I was not sure is more waterproofing was needed or if the joints needed to be pre-filled so I stop to ask. If the felt is good enough then I will skip the extra waterproofing, the original was was just drywall with nothing behind it.

[v b chil-n]

So I guess my question now is. Is the Felt a good waterproofing solution?
or should I fill the seams and use a product like Redgard?..

[bbcamp]

15 lb felt is fine, so long as you overlapped the joints and the felt ended up inside the liner. You tape and mud the backerboard joints to create a near-monolithic surface for the tile. You can mud the joints as you tile, but the tape need to be there before the tile.

[v b chil-n]

How does one properly install Bull nose on a 90 degree inside corner and around the border of field tiles? I'm concerned that the corners won't look right since the edges of the bull nose won't line up properly.

[jondon]

posted by Craig,

How does one properly install Bull nose on a 90 degree inside corner and around the border of field tiles? I'm concerned that the corners won't look right since the edges of the bull nose won't line up properly.

Craig,

Couple different ways of using the bullnosing. People do it differently and its usually a matter of preference on what the person likes better. Are you doing a tub surround or full shower? One way if your bullnose tiles are the same size as your filed tiles. Keep all the joints lined up and on those outside corners try to get ahold of what they call corner bullnose pieces. The piece will have two finished sides and accommodate your outside corners. Inside corners just run the bullnose pieces together, or miter em.

Option number 2 - Stagger your bullnose pieces to your field tile, outside corners you miter, (2) 45 degree cuts to make your 90 degree turn. To make it clear this is the same kind of cut you would make around a door frame to put your casing up. If your bullnosing pieces are not the same as your field tiles, then this is your only option.

[v b chil-n]

Jordon thank you so much, why didn't I think of the 45 degree cut? thanks for the tips, that will take care of the upper shower wall. The tile I am using does not have the bull nose with the two finished corner edges (bummer) My next biggest concern was where the horizontal curb meets the vertical wall. This is a visible area and the two bull noses meeting at a 90 degree inside corner looked crappy. But if I understand what you are saying, mitering that corner at 45 degrees will take care of that issue correct?

[ob1kanobee]

I don't know if this is what you are looking for but we always tried to put the bullnose on top of the curb or marble sill then lock it in with the last piece of wall tile coming down on top of it.
This was also a nice extra measure for waterproofing and it looks nicer in the long run. Same with the shower floor being installed under the walls around the perimeter.